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"FORD FALCON BA 0: A FEW COMMON PROBLEMS CAN BE SOLVED IF YOU TELL THE MECHANIC WHAT TO DO. - I am a mechanic only a 4th year but soon to be qualified. And to add to it I am a female. I worked in several places and worked on a whole wide range of cars, and I've noticed a lot of complaints about the BA Falcons in this forum. See if I can cover up your issues with the way I solve all the BA customers that I dealt with in my past and present and never ever had a come back.
First of all, Ford made an OK vehicle ... but Holden is no better either. There are faults that need looking at and the vehicle needs a lot of TLC from the day you buy the car.
Common quick fault are:
- Bonnet cable always breaks at the lever
- Power Steering pump high pressure line always leaks
- Hand brake barely ever works
- Constant brake shudder
- Poor Idle
- DIFF!
I think I missed a couple of things, but those are the most common ones that come into my work with the common problems and wander "why" at such a low mileage? Well I don't know, but it's not your fault it's the "makers" fault. Every single one of them have the same problem over and over.
The bonnet cable will always be a problem because the lever is connected to the fuse box which is the most stupid thing I have ever seen in my life. I have had to replace fuse boxes just to fix the damn thing.
Power Steering pump leaks ... yeah bad too. The high pressure line from the pump out leaks at the thread. You need to cut the top of the line off and put a new thread in (a new fitting) and there will never be a problem again. If it is done properly. And the plastic reservoir leaks quite often so that's a problem as well because in that case now you have to replace the whole pump.
Hand brake not working? well ... that's an everyday thing. I can do it with my eyes shut. A lot of complaints are that the "dealerships" or "garages" never adjust the hand brakes and the customers get angry because the hand brake comes up to your chin and doesn't pull up the car at all. Easy fix. Take it back to them, tell them to adjust the hand brake at the rear brakes by taking off the wheel, taking the calipers off and the rotor, and adjust it at the hand brake adjuster. THEN adjust it under the car at the hand brake cable. A lot of people say "the hand brake should pull up at 6 clicks" yes that's true, but with Fords best it works and won't wear off your hand brake shoes if its no more than 4 clicks. But this has to be done by a mechanic that isn't stupid and wants to get rid of you quick.
Brake shudder. I have had to replace a lot of rotors already. But due to the fact that the owners of the vehicles put it off for so long and then try to blame us for the problem 6 months later. Not good. Pads wear off a fair between now and 6 months. And it all always depends on the heavy driver's foot.
If there's a brake shudder, which is common, tell your mechanic if he's going to replace your pads. Do Not Use "RDA" brand pads. They are Shocking! Only use "BENDIX". They are of a softer material and will not grave into your rotor as much as RDA's do. Replace your pads with Bendix Pads and machine off your rotors as little as possible. And if you have huge grooves in your rotors then I guess a replacement is necessary.
Then let me advise you to ask the mechanic to take a look at the brake fluid and replace it if necessary. Brake fluid should never be black, brown, gluggly or smelly. Because it will make your brakes fail because under such heat it absorbs water and water cannot be compressed which is what we Don't need because we are "compressing the pedal to activate the brakes". If water is present it won't work. And the glugginess clogs off valves in the brake master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders (which is only in drum brake) and your brakes will feel **** and are hazardous.
Poor idle. I've noticed most of the "motorcraft" ignition leads crossfire so there's your problem. Get the spark plugs checked and change them if needed and change the leads into BOSH leads. NOT "Eagle"! They crossfire ASAP!
So then there's the "Throttle positioning sensor" that fails so get that looked at. and also REQUEST a "throttle body and IAC Valve clean out" which is a problem if they aren't because your motor needs fresh clean air to run properly, instead its getting carboned up in the air intake. And usually in this case when you use your Air conditioning the IAC Valve gets sticky from the carbon, and the motor idles real bad or it'll stall. Even if you have Power Steering in any vehicle and are turning or doing a "U" turn your car idles bad or stalls it's because of your IAC valve most of the time. So again I advise you to get your throttle body and IAC valve cleaned every service.
And let me remind you I mean every service and that's EVERY 5,000km! Not every 15,000 as Ford Log book says. That's ridiculous. I've had customers replace their diffs because of that **** the diff oil was so badly worn! So Diff oil Must be Replaced as soon as you read this if you own a BA (Of course if you've never had it replaced).
Sorry about my grammar, I hope it's been some help."
POSTED BY: SARA SEROKA - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 5 APR 2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK
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May I suggest you get your facts straight prior to alarming people of possibly non existant items. I suggest you contact your local Ford Dealer for a more accurate interpetation of the comments made, eg, I have never replaced a power steering pump due to a reservoir leak. I guess the dealers you have worked for are just unlucky. Water, like brake fluid does not "compress" that is the idea of it. Water in a brake system causes corrosion and will boil at the brakes which can cause system failure. Recommended replacement is yearly (dependant on vehicle and fluid type)preferably in the spring. Please be more accurate with responses at the motoring public rely on us to look after one of their most prized possesions.
PS. 33 years in the trade.
POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS 5 APR 2007
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Well done Sara - useful information, I do all my own repairs on my cars and bikes. The one thing that gets me angry with workshops is the way they rip people off , not the mechanic but the boss e.g. your pay rate say $23.00 they charge 75.00. I know cost but that's over the top, e.g. replace plugs, oil filter, oil, clean air filter, reset ECU = tune up, on a VX Commodore about $50.00 and a hour. Dealer charge approx 350.00. I hope you enjoy your job as there is always work out there for a good honest mechanic and show the biased people a girl can repair cars too.
POSTED BY: RAY SEAL, ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 6 APR 2007
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Sara, I can relate to your emails and appreciate the advice. I have taken my Falcon XR6 back to Ford ...Ooo ... about 25 times give or take 3, some for Power Steering, Hand brake, Constant brake shudder and not to mention Poor Idle and all the other ones I can't recall of the top of my head. I have never had them fixed. Three years down the track I’ve given up.
I have come to expect poor service from the Ford dealer’s around the SE QLD area. It’s part of life. Funny thing is Holden are no better as you’ve mentioned. I have a Commodore as well. It receives poor service from my local Holden dealers. I’ve tried different dealers from both sides and it makes no difference.
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Hi Sara,
Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts/experience on the web. I have spent the last couple of days attempting to fix the handbrake on my BA. The result was no improvement which got me searching the web for answers and finding your site.
2 problems that I came up with was:
1. When I adjusted the assembly to the specified 189mm it seemed too large as the disc would not go back on (until I reduced the adjustment, a problem in itself).
2. The handbrake lever does not come with an adjusting nut, as the manual described. I guess that’s why you say to adjust from under the car. But where do you do this? I will follow your advice on the other matters before they become a problem.
Regards, Wayne
POSTED BY: WAYNE MILLAR - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 5 MAY 2008
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As for L DAVIS reply, I don't believe Sara was trying to alarm people, she is pointing out some reccurring issue and how to deal with them at your local repair shop. Your comment, whilst it may be correct, about "Water in a brake system causes corrosion and will boil at the brakes which can cause system failure" is more alarming to the public than Sara's advice could be. You don't work for a Ford Dealer by any chance?
Thank you Sara.
POSTED BY: MEMPHIS - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 8 AUG 2007
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Hi Sara
Have you any advice on the 2003 BA Falcons problem with the diff. I have just purchased one and it has a thumping noise in the rear end of the vehicle when decelerating or changing gears. Is there any cure for this problem? I have spoken with the dealers mechanics and they said everything is tight and not likely to fall off and they have ordered an Oil Additive to put into the diff. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Rob
POSTED BY: ROBERT DEWAR - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 28 SEP 2007
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Very well done Sara your tips are so handy, keep up the good work. Hope to hear more from you.
POSTED BY: CHRIS GADSBY - NOOSA QLD - AUS 18 NOV 2007
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Well put together Sara I commend you on your truths as I have had the same experiences on them as well being a mechanic for 33 years. I have repaired so many in the past due to poor design, and the consumer has to pay for that. I don’t agree with the first reply, it’s ok to be a Ford lover, but you can’t keep sweeping their bad faults under the carpet. Keep up the good work, and keep honest as I’m sure you already are... not too many of us left these days.
POSTED BY: RICK WELDON - BEACHMERE, QLD - AUS 7 MAR 2008
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It is sad that this L Davis company **** for Ford keeps up his replies to people just voicing concerns on some things he obviously really has become conveniently oblivious to... maybe just a bit too far up the ladder these days to be able to have your own opoinion. Well from a grease monkey working on most Ford and Holdens and the rest for the last 57 years you can see with different companies who have dropped the ball. The two biggest areas are service especially with Ford and Landrover and poor quality of vehicles only. Maybe designed to last there government / company 3 years and the out of touch managerial staff with no say in what goes on (Do as you’re told ****). It has really only been the last 10 years maybe 13 that this really has become a problem. Least I know what parts to have on the shelf. Ta Ford saves me heaps.
POSTED BY: FITZY - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 11 MAR 2008
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You're so right. Last week broke hood cable at lever on 03 BA. Waiting on dealer to get back to me. Yes, I have had idle problems on my other BA and yes, have had brake shuddering problems on same BA at 30,000 and 85,000 kms. Replaced discs both times.
Now I am having problems with rear RHS wheel getting very hot while towing caravan. Doesn't get hot otherwise. Discs and pads and bearing are fine. It could be exhaust runs over axle on that side and generates extra heat under load? Any ideas?
POSTED BY: ROD PARSONS - ESPERANCE, WA - AUS 26 MAR 2008
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Okay, I apologize about the coil on plug/ignition lead issue. At the time I was thinking of an AU but didn’t realise I was talking about the BA. My apologies.
Anyway, other than that, I haven’t seen one BA with a fault for the last 6 months. It has been great. Although I lie, I am still doing hand brake cables, and refitting bedix pads and new rotors too many. But that’s now natural.
Thank you very much for agreeing with my comments, I usually keep my ideas or experiences to myself in fear of people like L Davis that like to turn sides and beat the **** of another mechanic just because they are now 60 years old. Well pal, let me tell you I would love to see you do a timing belt on a Manta. That would be great. Not like the old carby is it.
I will comment again, but I am keeping my space for other know it alls.
POSTED BY: SARA SEROKA - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 17 APR 2008
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Excellent overview of the BA Falcon Sara. If only all mechanics were like you. It is an OK car, and even a safer car than many others in an accident. I had mine written off, it was a mess after being hit side on, on a bend, by a woman who crossed double lines. The safety and construction of the vehicle helped in me not even being injured.
I now have a BF2, not all that much different to the BA, apart from the front bumper and a slightly more powerful engine, but hardly noticeable. The BF also has to be treated with TLC. I used to do my own servicing in the past, on older Falcons, but now with the computer controlled engine, and lack of even being able to see how much automatic transmission fluid is in the box, (what a stupid idea to remove the dipsticks), the car goes to the dealership while under warranty. Won't be after warranty expires though I can assure you.
Memphis of the Gold Coast is so right with his impression of Ford dealers in Sth East Queensland. My previous car went in for a full service and brake pad replacement, along with mild machining. They forgot to fully tighten the right hand front wheel, and I was travelling along the Bruce Highway and this terrible shudder appeared. Luckily I am a trained emergency services driver and picked up what it was and pulled over.
All the wheel nuts had worked loose from a service that was only performed the previous day. No Excuse at all for that happening, and I am just fortunate I did not flip the car over. Then the left hand front wheel was over tightened and nuts could not be budged, even with a four sided wheelbrace and hammer. Those stupid rattle guns they use at dealerships should be banned, or at least show apprentices how to use one properly.
I also found out that a third year mechanic had done most of the work on the car, so I asked for a partial refund as I was not paying full price for an "unqualified" person to just plug in the diagnostic computer, then work on the car. I thought the costs were for fully qualified people, no reflection on Sara here, I'd be glad to pay for her work.
Having been to a few Ford dealerships over the years in Sth. East Queensland, being ripped off for labour, and not even getting good service (something many people complain about), I am surprised that Ford head Office in Victoria don't come to Queensland and "educate" some of the dealerships in ethical business practice.
POSTED BY: BRIAN GLASSON - WEST END, QLD - AUS 17 APR 2008
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Hi Sara,
Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts/experience on the web. I have spent the last couple of days attempting to fix the handbrake on my BA. The result was no improvement which got me searching the web for answers and finding your site.
2 problems that I came up with was:
1. When I adjusted the assembly to the specified 189mm it seemed too large as the disc would not go back on (until I reduced the adjustment, a problem in itself).
2. The handbrake lever does not come with an adjusting nut, as the manual described. I guess that’s why you say to adjust from under the car. But where do you do this? I will follow your advice on the other matters before they become a problem.
Regards, Wayne
POSTED BY: WAYNE MILLAR - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 5 MAY 2008
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Hi Sara,
Thank you for sending through the additional instructions (for the slow one). My handbrake is now adjusted and is working very well. First time since I bought it a few months back!
I did encounter one problem adjusting the handbrake shoes in so much that I could not get a sufficient angle on the screwdriver (when passing through the hole) to turn the adjusting wheels both directions. One way to tighten, the other to loosen. I tried every hole there was available. I could only turn it one way.
In the end I adjusted the shoe as wide as I could (with the drum off) and still get the drum back on. Doing this and then making the final adjustment at the cable it came up very well.
I suspect that I could adjust it even finer if I could get to do the adjustment with the handbrake drum in place as you described. I will have a search around to see if a special tool can be made up or something.
Anyway, thanks again. Your help has been greatly appreciated. I hope you have a long and enjoyable career as a mechanic. You are obviously well suited to it.
Regards
Wayne
POSTED BY: WAYNE MILLAR - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 12 MAY 2008
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My boyfriend has an AU with power steering leaks - he's been told the fluid leaks onto the alternator, causing it to fail. How much power steering fluid does it take to ruin an alternator?
How hard is it to fix the leak?
You go girl!
POSTED BY: LORRAINE - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 4 FEB 2009
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Great post.
POSTED BY: CHRIS - NSW - AUS 21 FEB 2009
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My replies to motorsm.com are hopeless sorry guys, please email me if you have any concerns on any model/class, I am very happy to help. Worst case scenario I may even look at your vehicle if it becomes too complicated.
Update, have been qualified since my last post, I am now 2 years past my apprenticeship. Thank you very much for the support and I would love to help more, just need to email me.
POSTED BY: SARA SEROKA - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 17 MAR 2009
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Peter
Have just read Sarah Seroka's notes on the BA dated 5 August 2007. Great reading and I can relate to a number of the issues she has raised. I have a 2003 BA Fairmont and have just had the transmission rebuilt and the radiator replaced as part of the rebuild. Total Cost $2500. Now I am concerned about the diff. I do all my own oils changes etc and would like to do the diff oil change my self also.
Is it the same as the older models i.e. undo the bottom bolt on the housing to drain it and fill from a filler hole higher up on the housing? Also can you recommend an oil type? I have 150,000kms on the dial (got it when it had 43000kms) and the just love the car.
Thanks
POSTED BY: ALEX - BITTERN, VIC - AUS 21 JUN 2010 |
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