Had this computer detector by a professional car electronics (not by a Daihatsu dealer) to check why the Malfunction indicator & Overdrive switch flashes on and off and the speedometer is not working. The answer everything seemed clear but they flash on and off.

1. On the Manual it says. Manual indicator light MIL: Except for EU specifications. If the engine electronic control system should malfunction while the engine is running, the MIL goes on. Caution: If the MIL goes on, immediately have the vehicle checked by a Daihatsu dealer.

2. On the manual it says: O/D off indicator. When the overdrive switch is turned off, the indicator light goes on. Caution: If the o/d drive off indicator light flashes during running, the automatic transmission might be malfunctioning. Have the transmission checked by a Daihatsu dealer.

3. The speedometer stays on zero and does not work. Making it hard to work out how many k's you are doing.

I'm another Rav4 owner having these shifting, lurching, slipping problems. It just started happening a few days ago. I knew something wasn't right with the transmission even though I'm pretty naive about cars and engines. It was so obvious that something was going on with the gears/shifting which must have something to do with the automatic transmission.

Fortunately, I'm one of those who googles just about everything. I was surprised to see how many people have complained about this problem. I decided that I would fork out the $99 to have Toyota diagnose the problem. They said it was the ECU and it would cost $1400. They also found an additional $1600 worth of repairs that were needed including a 100K mile preventive maintenance, a belt was dry and cracking, oil leaking here, and fluid leaking there.

So now I'm trying to decide if I should just go ahead and order a new ECU online? Prices vary from $200 to $450.

I'm hoping I can get my car repaired for under $500. That wouldn't be too bad to me since I've never really had any major problems with my car that I recall, and it's given me over 100,000 miles. All of my cars I've bought new: 1987 Nissan Sentra and 1995 Mitsubishi Galant. My 2003 Rav4 is by far my favorite. I hope I can continue to drive it for many more years.

Got my doubts about RACV batteries. Have my son's Subaru on loan for a while, decided to give it a clean. I had the doors open for a couple of hours and yes you guessed it, the battery was not good enough to crank the motor. Charged the battery until my Hi Tech charger indicated charging complete (3 hrs). Did a discharge test by turning on head lights, after 10 minutes battery volts = 10.8. Turned off the lights and tried to start the motor, battery was just able to crank, fortunately it just started. Not very confident though.

Read the comment from WRX owner having 4x Batteries in as many years. Also my ex workmate has an RACV battery. In his Commodore for a few weeks, and yes it has let him down twice. What’s going on, are these RACV Batteries OK or Not?

I am/was considering buying a Winnebago longreach and would like to talk to others regarding the problems I am reading about. If anyone would like to fill me in I would appreciate it. I can call you if you email me your number.

Hope we can help a few Carnival owners out there, as we have seen a lot of these motors, and have heard reports of a shortage of places to fix them.

We run an engine reconditioning workshop in south west Victoria. Our shop has been rebuilding the V6 Carnival motors with a machining process that has put a stop to the leaking cylinder liner problems that plague the Carnival 2.5 V6 motor. Without going into details it involves block grooves and o ring seals on each cylinder to stop leakage. We have had good results from this process and our reconditioned motors will last much longer than just repairing your motor temporarily.

I’m not sure if we are able to put our name or contact details on this post, but if it is ok with this website I will post our contact details and company details in a follow up post.

Thank you S.F.

Check OpelAus website. 90,000 Ks from rotors and pads is not uncommon on AH Astras. It all comes down to how you drive your car and where (city, country). I have only 1mm of wear on discs after 60,000 city klms. Pads are 60% worn.

Australia’s peak motoring organisation, the Australian Automobile Association, has called on new car buyers to ensure safety is a priority in making their purchases, following the release of poor safety ratings for three low-cost imported utilities.

Australia’s leading independent vehicle safety advocate, the Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP), today released its crash test results for two Great Wall Motors (GWM) utilities – the SA220 and V240 – and the Proton Jumbuck.

The heavily promoted GWM utes scored only 2 stars out of 5, while the Jumbuck received a 1-star rating. ANCAP described the ratings as poor.

AAA’s Director of Technical Services, Craig Newland, said the low crash test safety ratings showed consumers needed to look at a variety of factors in making their new car purchase.

The GWM vehicles have been heavily promoted in Australia on the basis of cost, not safety, and consumers need to weigh up issues such as safety against the cost of these vehicles,” Mr Newland said.

“The ANCAP ratings are based on internationally acknowledged testing protocols and these 1 and 2-star ratings indicate a high risk of injury in a crash.

“It is timely that these vehicles are being tested, as the GWM vehicles have been widely promoted to the Australian market.”

Mr Newland noted that Proton have indicated they are bringing a new model of the Jumbuck onto the Australian market with enhanced safety features.

“Australia has a wide range of 4 and 5-star passenger vehicles and ANCAP only last month issued its first 5-star rating for a light commercial van in the Mercedes-Benz Viano and Vito, so these results are going against the trend towards increased safety for occupants,” he said.

“The results are a cause for concern at a time when we are seeing safer vehicles available for consumers.”

For a full list of ANCAP’s vehicle safety ratings, including light commercial vehicles and utilities, and other vehicle safety information, go to ancap.com.au

Grant I hope you did take the Barina back to the Dealership as your family is truly at risk. I had exactly the same thing happen to me and I too was lucky. I was on the flat but my nephew borrowed the Barina as his car was off the road for the day and he wasn't so lucky coming down Mt Keira the same thing happened. Brakes failed, hit the guard rail ending up on the embankment on the other side of the road. Thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic and thank god he is ok but the car was a write-off and insurance is not paying. They say I need to prove the brakes failed?

I had it into my mechanic a couple of weeks before because of what happened to me on the flat and he couldn't find anything wrong with them. I said to the insurance company isn't that proof enough, why would I pay a mechanic to check my brakes? Where to go from here. I feel Holden is liable and I am scared people will be killed if they haven't already. I want Holden to recall the Barina 2006 model it is dangerous!

Be very careful. It may be illegal to remove the diesel particulate filter due to emission control regulations. I believe that there are hefty fines if you are caught modifying your vehicles pollution control system.

Well, yes I know what you mean. I'm so angry.

Just got a 28,000ks service on my 2007 Astra Twin Top and was lumped with a $1,550.00 account and the expensive item was the front discs and pads. I don't understand. No valid answer has been provided. Just it is a normal thing with those cars. I refuse to accept that.

Well, you spend over $50,000 on a new car and 2 years later it costs you heaps to replace the brakes. Strange! Not correct!

Can anyone help me please? My 2000 model AU2 Falcon, 6 cylinder, auto, has developed a habit of the engine cutting out whilst I am driving along, sometimes when at 80km/hr or more. This has been happening for about a month and I am wearing out my welcome with RACQ. It has only happened when the ambient temperature is 30 deg C or more and after I have driven for 15km or so, or been stuck in traffic. The car slows to a halt, will not restart immediately, but if I leave it for 10 minutes it will start and drive normally for a few km's before the same thing happens again.

After the first time this happened, I fitted a new coil pack on the advice of the RACQ and tow truck driver. All was fine for a couple of weeks, the weather warmed up last weekend, the fault occurred again. After grinding to a halt several times and making rather slow motorway progress, not to mention the danger of being stuck with no where suitable to pull over, I relented and called the RACQ for a tow home. Of course, the car could be driven onto the tow truck, and once home I went around the block ok, but I'm not game to venture more than walking distance from home till I sort this out! Has anyone any ideas please.

I have owned a Hyundai Sante Fe from new since 2003. I have paint crazing on my car in about five different places. I saw a later model Sante Fe at my local shopping centre yesterday and the paint is crazing in exactly the same places. If it is bird droppings they must be extremely accurate! I have had other bright coloured cars for over ten years and this is the first time it has happened. My mechanic says dark coloured Hyundais are well known for this problem. I definitely believe that Hyundai has a case to answer and I would Never buy another one.

Call Cooper Tires and they will send you a Drivers Guide which will have information regarding correct tyre pressures for different terrains. It does sound like you have too much pressure for the situation, try 25psi. This pressure is safe as long as you do not exceed 80 kph.

I have a 2006 BF Falcon wagon. Not always but at times after driving the vehicle stopping it than coming back to the vehicle to start it, it just winds over and then starts and runs rough for about 10 secs and then rectifies itself. This is very frustrating. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Hi,
Sounds like the oil pressure sensor - if you are still having problems email me and I can help. Also have you tried australia4wd.com. Also Lismore diesel knows all about these. Can be expensive if you have too many problems and especially if you take to local Holden service dept to fix.
Good luck

Blows cold fine for few days then just stops. Then starts for few days then off.

Have you had your suspension checked by specialist?
How many kilometres on the vehicle?

4WDs have heavy duty suspension to cope with a heavy vehicle on rough terrain, a compromise has to be made between ride comfort and strength. 4WDs do not magically turn a gravel road into a freeway. In fact, if you want a good ride on gravel roads a late model large sedan is still your best option.

Hey guys I got a Nissan Navara STX D40 and I been getting some shocking kms out of full tanks as all that own an auto will know that.. I want to remove this DPF. Can someone tell me where to go in Brisbane or Gold coast so I can get it done and see where it gets me. Cheers

I had a Toyota RAV4. I had it for 7 years no problems then 6 months ago it would not change gears would stay in first gear. Looked on internet found out America had sent out information to all Toyota dealers that there was a problem with the computer not realising it was over revving the engine.

We talked to Toyota where we bought the car and had every service done on time. They said you are just out of warranty by 1 month we are not going to help even when they knew about the problem before hand. We paid to have a new computer 1500.00. Car was ok for a week then the gear box went. Toyota fitted the gearbox for nothing but still wouldn’t help with the cost 1800.00 for second hand gear box.

Then 1 month later the diff went when I was driving the Hume highway doing 110 the car came to a complete stop leaving half my tyres on the road. No warning very dangerous. Reason for the diff I found out was no one had put fluid in it when they changed the gearbox over. The excuse I got from Toyota was it’s been a month anything could have happened so again they washed their hands of it. I then found out that it is a common problem with the seal between diff and gearbox to leak diff fluid into the gearbox.

After all this I couldn’t keep the car as I was too worried the engine would die so I got rid of it. Will never buy from Toyota ever again, their customer service was terrible.

It may be a faulty catalytic converter. Had same in Ford F6. Breaking apart and choking exhaust. Numerous Fords have had that when near new. Just a thought.

This type of problem is hard to pinpoint. It reminds me of a similar problem that I had. but not as bad as you. I’m not a mechanic... but with electronics, the first thing I would either change is the battery, as this is the heart of any motor vehicle. If it’s more than 5 years at the most ... change it now.

By doing this you’re going to avoid further problems. It’s amazing just what a steady supply of power throughout the whole network that your car requires.You just might notice a major difference, straight away? by illuminating the power supply as the source of your problems.

The next item that I would point to is circuit board fail which needs to be tested, either on or off the vehicle. These items are an exchange job.

So in brief. It’s a relay problem. Or your vehicle needs a heart bypass / a new battery. Hope this helps, we all get problems and there is a solution. Someone knows more than I do and a lot of educated mechanics don’t...

All the best, but yes I would be concerned that its not roadworthy like it is. I wouldn’t like to risk my life at 100 klm an hour.

Hello Tom

I have a LR Discovery MY2003, it has just done 62,000km and the three warning lights have begun coming on intermittently.

Before I approach LR to seek their assistance in rectifying the fault, are you able to tell me which office you lodged your complaint with, whether you approached consumer affairs at all, and whether you have any success since you posted your comment in April 2009?

Kind regards

Hi,

I have had the same problem as Jennifer, I own a 2002 Holden Astra and the hydraulic has gone on my car, Holden have quoted $1600.00 to repair it! I am interested in knowing about the Race Auto people to get in touch with The Hose Doctor... Please!

Much appreciated

It is most likely it is the ECU (Transmission Computer), as it does not diagnose the transmission has a problem. These cars were recalled in USA for software upgrade a free service. Also look on internet with others with similar problems. Toyota Aust deny this problem exists. Contact Toyota customer relations Sydney / Taren Point / Tel 02 9710 3333, as it constitutes a very serious safety issue. Response on local and national level very poor. Complain to Dept of Fair Trading, Consumer Affairs, Current Affair (Television) as they are interested in doing a story.

We had the same problem with the fuel gauge for a year. After 3 different dealerships & 3 fuel gauge senders & 3 in dash fuel gauge replacements it was fixed with 1 minor part.

We are happy now.