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| COMPLAINTS
CORNER |
ComplaintsCorner.com |
| "Complaints Corner" provides an online billboard to publicize problems or complaints about your car or poor after-sales support from dealerships and manufacturers. Good news about exceptional customer service etc. will also be published. N.B. Bestcade MotorSM is not responsible nor endorse views expressed by contributors. | |
| APRIL 2009 - COMPLAINTS CORNER POSTINGS 2009: 3 2 1 2008: 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2007: 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2006 |
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FORD FALCON BA FUTURA 2003: POSSIBLE ORIGIN OF OIL LEAK/SARA'S WORKPLACE *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi all, |
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| POSTED BY: LEE HANN - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 30/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== RELATED POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON 0: RE: A FEW COMMON PROBLEMS CAN BE SOLVED IF YOU TELL THE MECHANIC WHAT TO DO - My replies to motorsm.com are hopeless sorry guys, please email me if you have any concerns on any model/class, I am very happy to help. Worst case scenario I may even look at your vehicle if it becomes too complicated. Update, have been qualified since my last post, I am now 2 years past my apprenticeship. Thank you very much for the support and I would love to help more, just need to email me." POSTED BY: SARA SEROKA - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 17 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I had a funny and I guess rare fault with my BA when it was new. The alloy sump was porous and the oil was leaking through it and leaving the occasional drip on the ground. I had to carefully clean off the outside of sump to find. No sign of any leaks in past 5 years and I get under to service myself. Good Luck. POSTED BY: BARRY H - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 1 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, Could you please tell me how to replace the oil sump packing (gasket) in the Ford Falcon Futura 1997 model if you have any idea. It seems to me to replace gasket required to remove lot of parts including engine under guard. Am I right? Cheers, POSTED BY: PRASAD - VIC - AUS 29 DEC 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Good Evening, As I have mentioned emailing me directly is a much easier way of contact rather than over motor sm as its incredibly confusing! As for a reply to Lee, sorry for the late reply. I hope you have sorted your car out and fixed your oil leak, or got another car instead. As far as the oil leak, rocker cover gasket leak down the engine block and a lot of mechanics get this confused and replace a rear main seal which you have to remove the engine for in order to fix the leak and the leak is still present because the rocker cover gasket was the initial fault. Another thing is that yes it also may be the rear main seal or sump. All 3 are known issues. If problem is still occurring please contact me. Good luck! A reply to post Replacing a Sump gasket, I don't recommend this job to anyone that doesn't have any mechanical knowledge as this is a job for and only a qualified personnel with a engine crane/lift. In order to replace this gasket, require a engine crane, to lift the engine off the K frame by a few centimetres to replace gasket on the sump. Whole engine removal is not necessary. Let me know. POSTED BY: SARA SEROKA - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 14 MAR 2010 |
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NISSAN NAVARA 2008: RE: LEMON *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Navaras are all a heap of **** and they should stick them all up Nissans ****. Has anyone contacted Today Tonight or ACC about this, there are about 50 I have found on this site and I am one of them. Please contact me if anyone wants to do something! |
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| POSTED BY: MATT - BERRINBA, QLD - AUS, 30/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========= "Hi Joe, The exhaust system on your D40 should be up to the job as standard unless you want a better sound. Your fuel consumption problem stems from either the factory ECU or the fact that when the factories install injectors they don't bother to calibrate them to match each other as a group of 4 or similar, straight out of box and in to motor. My 2008 D22 STR manual is running 600km plus around the city/suburbs (average is about 11.30L/100km), your D40 should be close to that if you had the manual. The autos are heavy on fuel, as many fellow Cairns D40 Auto owners have told me. A D-Tronic or one of those similar engine chip/recalibration units will give you some relief from the fuel burn issue (how much is a guess, each unit is different as is each vehicle and driver) but you really should get a diesel shop to service and set the injectors as a group of 4. Warranty wise, Nissan will most likely not want to know you after the installation. Its one of those choices you have to make. My suggestion is to grab a Brisbane phone book, look up the Bosch or similar accredited diesel workshops and have a chat to them, it may even be worth making a day trip to the big smoke to chat face to face with them, that way they should be able to look at the vehicle and give you prices and info to take home for you to go through. Hope this works out, at least you don't have the manual D40 and are doing $1500 plus clutches and flywheels every 8000 to 10,000km like some people are. Best of luck. Jason" POSTED BY: JASON GRADY - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 23 APR 2009 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA KING CAB 2008: LEMON - Hi all, I just bought a Nissan Navara D40 2.5 2008 Auto king cab. Had it two weeks and Nissan have had it in the workshop for a week fixing the (dpf) diesel particle filter, the warning light came on and wouldn’t go off .Fuel economy on it is total ****, it does 480klm to a full tank, which is 75litres. Nissan says it’s ok which I know it’s not, I am losing 200klm to a tank compared to my Hilux which just traded in for it. Does anyone know what I can do? Any help would be good. Heard about a tiapan exhaust with a chip. Does this work and without losing the warrantee? Let me know if I am wasting my time. Appreciate any help." POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 22 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I too am the extremely dissatisfied owner of a 2008 auto diesel Navara. Fuel consumption test by the local dealer as specified by Nissan Australia returned 15.95 litres per 100km highway cycle. The problem is the DPF, the manual versions do not have one (Why not?). I achieved nearly 20lt per 100km recently towing a trailer. After 12 months of no action I am taking Nissan to court. I welcome anyone to contact me regarding their problems as believe me there are heaps of people complaining about this issue. Is anyone else doing anything about it? Send me all your complaints/info and I will present it when I go to court as additional support for my claim for compensation. Maybe Nissan will be forced into a recall. Regards Justin O'Connor PH **** POSTED BY: JUSTIN OCONNOR - WANGARATTA, VIC - AUS 29 APR 2009 |
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KIA CARNIVAL 2004: KIA CARNIVAL FAULTY ENGINE *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi all. |
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| POSTED BY: JOHN CARUSO - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 30/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Hi John Your posting was very short on info or if you have a problem with a Kia Engine. If you do reply back to me & I can forward info that may assist. Dale POSTED BY: DALE MORRIS - WOODVALE, WA - AUS 3 MAY 2009 |
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NISSAN NAVARA DIESEL 2008: RE: LEMON *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Justin, |
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| POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD, AUS, 30/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== "I too am the extremely dissatisfied owner of a 2008 auto diesel Navara. Fuel consumption test by the local dealer as specified by Nissan Australia returned 15.95 litres per 100km highway cycle. The problem is the DPF, the manual versions do not have one (Why not?). I achieved nearly 20lt per 100km recently towing a trailer. After 12 months of no action I am taking Nissan to court. I welcome anyone to contact me regarding their problems as believe me there are heaps of people complaining about this issue. Is anyone else doing anything about it? Send me all your complaints/info and I will present it when I go to court as additional support for my claim for compensation. Maybe Nissan will be forced into a recall. Regards Justin O'Connor PH **** " POSTED BY: JUSTIN OCONNOR - WANGARATTA, VIC - AUS 29 APR 2009 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA KING CAB 2008: LEMON - Hi all, I just bought a Nissan Navara D40 2.5 2008 Auto king cab. Had it two weeks and Nissan have had it in the workshop for a week fixing the (dpf) diesel particle filter, the warning light came on and wouldn’t go off .Fuel economy on it is total ****, it does 480klm to a full tank, which is 75litres. Nissan says it’s ok which I know it’s not, I am losing 200klm to a tank compared to my Hilux which just traded in for it. Does anyone know what I can do? Any help would be good. Heard about a tiapan exhaust with a chip. Does this work and without losing the warrantee? Let me know if I am wasting my time. Appreciate any help." POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 22 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Joe, The exhaust system on your D40 should be up to the job as standard unless you want a better sound. Your fuel consumption problem stems from either the factory ECU or the fact that when the factories install injectors they don't bother to calibrate them to match each other as a group of 4 or similar, straight out of box and in to motor. My 2008 D22 STR manual is running 600km plus around the city/suburbs (average is about 11.30L/100km), your D40 should be close to that if you had the manual. The autos are heavy on fuel, as many fellow Cairns D40 Auto owners have told me. A D-Tronic or one of those similar engine chip/recalibration units will give you some relief from the fuel burn issue (how much is a guess, each unit is different as is each vehicle and driver) but you really should get a diesel shop to service and set the injectors as a group of 4. Warranty wise, Nissan will most likely not want to know you after the installation. Its one of those choices you have to make. My suggestion is to grab a Brisbane phone book, look up the Bosch or similar accredited diesel workshops and have a chat to them, it may even be worth making a day trip to the big smoke to chat face to face with them, that way they should be able to look at the vehicle and give you prices and info to take home for you to go through. Hope this works out, at least you don't have the manual D40 and are doing $1500 plus clutches and flywheels every 8000 to 10,000km like some people are. Best of luck. Jason POSTED BY: JASON - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 23 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Justin All the best to you when taking Nissan to court. I’ve changed my tires so my speedo is good. I’ve had to put a lift kit on so it holds the weight. Going to get the injectors calibrated and put a cyclone fuel saver on and last of all going to get rid of the dpf. If all this fails to make the fuel economy better then I will sell it. I have never known a 4x4 you have to do so much to when its new only got 3000klm on it. Nissan used to be good years ago, they have gone down hill cheap **** with an expensive tag. Fuel economy I am getting is 14.84 litre per 100 km; 6.74 km / litre. Good Luck, Joe POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 30 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I'm happy to be part of this. I've had mine since January 2008 and I started keeping a log book shortly after that. Over the last 33,000 km's, I've achieved an average of 12.84 L/100 Km. The best I ever achieved (only once) was 10.22 L/100 Km going from Canberra to Sydney, which is basically a down hill run. Average on the highway is 11 to 11.5. Some time ago, I spoke to the Environmental Protection Agency in NSW about removing the DPF and they actually said they understood why I would want to remove the DPF. My argument is that I would assume the 20-30% increase in carbon emissions outweighed any benefit gained from removing soot from the exhaust. When I subsequently spoke to Nissan, they said that it wouldn't affect warranty unless the DPF removal directly caused a problem. Feel free to contact me, my D40 Navara has about 35,500 on the clock and I've been keeping a full fuel consumption history for the last 33,198 Km. Nissan has so far refused to help with this saying my fuel consumption figures are normal for the model. I did actually get one of the customer service reps to admit it was the DPF once. They haven't done that since though... Danny POSTED BY: DANNY - GOWRIE, ACT - AUS 28 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi All, Lets face it the Navara's auto are **** on fuel. All I am after is the replacement exhaust for it with out the DPF which I already had it through the horses mouth that is the problem. If you are driving slow it pumps lots of fuel to exhaust to burn the soot away. Question - will changing the exhaust to an old STX auto and changing the computer to an old one work? Does anyone know of a replacement exhaust yet? I don't give a hoots about the guarantee. I am getting 14.8 liters per 100 klms best worst is so far 16.9 no towing, carrying tools always. Tried trading in the other day at Cleveland Nissan. They were trying to charge me 57000 for a manual STX 2009 and they were trying to give me 33000 for mine 2008. With 6000klm on it so don't buy or trade a Nissan they are that **** you lose a lot too. POSTED BY: JOE - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 7 JUN 2009 |
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PRESS-RELEASE VACC 2009: VACC SUPPORTS EXTENSION TO AUTO INDUSTRY TRAINING *PRESS RELEASE* |
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ISSUE: |
VACC acknowledges the importance of today’s commencement of construction on Stage Two of the Automotive Centre of Excellence (ACE). |
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| POSTED BY: VICTORIAN AUTOMOTIVE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 30/04/2009 | ||
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FORD FALCON BA 2003: CAR RUNNING REALLY RICH, RUNNING REALLY BAD UP STILL 3800RPM *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I have a 2003 BA XT Falcon. For a couple of weeks now it was been running really rich and fueled up, usually when I stab the accelerator a plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust. Also on some occasions for often than none up until 3800rpm it’s running bad, the engine is really struggling to get 3800rpm barrier. But once it gets over it you feel this surge of power. |
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| POSTED BY: SHANNON CONNORS - GYMPIE, QLD - AUS, 30/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== A faulty MAP sensor will cause rich running. Spark plug leads need to be good as high resistance in a lead can cause coil problems, which in turn can cause high hydrocarbon readings to damage O2 Sensor and overheat and melt the CAT. In fact any miss be it plug, valve, lead, coil or compression will lead to O2 Sensor and CAT damage. POSTED BY: GAZZA - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 1 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Next time let Ford (or a reputable mechanic) do the whole job. That way they are not plucking at straws as you are now. There’s too many things that could cause your problem, but if you want to replace them all, try a fuel pressure regulator, coolant temperature sensor, set of injectors, map sensor and a new computer. They can all give you those symptoms. Coils and spark plugs won’t give you a rich condition, and a BA doesn’t have plug leads. POSTED BY: GRAHAM - AUS 1 MAY 2009 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA CDX 2005: BRAKE PADS FOR HOLDEN ASTRA *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Hello there, I have a 2005 Holden Astra CDX, bought brand new and so far have no issues with it. The brake pads need changing soon though, and when I rang Holden spare parts, I was told I'll need AH model pads which costs $260 for front and rear. Am I getting ripped off here and is it possible to get cheaper brake pads from elsewhere? |
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| POSTED BY: TRICIA MCKAY - ZETLAND, NSW - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Try your local Repco or Bursons store. Mark. POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 30 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Get some Bendix from Repco, or try Greg at gslrallysport.com for both pads and rotors. POSTED BY: DAVID - ENGADINE, NSW - AUS 1 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== We have a 2006 AH Astra. I bought front and rear disc with pads, Front $150.00 Rear $200.00 at peps. The brand is KDA but I have been told they are better than the Astra ones. Thanks, Ray POSTED BY: RAY - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 6 JUN 2009 |
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MITSUBISHI MAGNA 1998: RE: CAR BEEN AT THE MECHANICS FOR 4 MONTHS AND STILL THERE... *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I am having the same problem with my car and I'm getting the run around. I have found a place in Melbourne called Petroject who say they can fix it. You can call them to check what they can do for you. Their phone number is 9873 7006. |
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| POSTED BY: BRIAN OSBORNE - COBRAM, VIC - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "MITSUBISHI MAGNA 1998: CAR BEEN AT THE MECHANICS FOR 4 MONTHS AND STILL THERE... - Hi, I purchased my car 6 months ago privately and within a month it went to the mechanic with problems with it starting. I was told it was a key reader so I paid $150 to have it replaced, within 2 weeks the problems started again. I returned the car back to the same mechanic which after a week of them investigating it they told me it needs a new immobiliser which will cost me $250. Fine I thought that’s not to bad. I was told a week and it will be ready. After the week I called to be told that particular part isn’t made for the model of my car it will have to be made in Japan, so the end of the month I was told. The car went to the mechanic on January 9th 2009 and is still there and still no immobiliser. Every time I call to find out about my car I’m fobbed off by a "we will call now to track it down for you" and very rarely do I hear back until I call them back. Can anyone give me advice on what they would do in this situation? I have been told by some friends to take it further as in solicitors and things, is that going too far? I’m stuck and have no idea where to go from here. I would just like my car back… help." POSTED BY: RENEE BURNS - PHILLIP ISLAND, VIC - AUS 27 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I send all my suspect faulty computers to petroject in Nunuwading, they test them and repair if necessary. Oh and find another mechanic. I would never treat my customers like that. POSTED BY: STEVE - VIC - AUS 28 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I had a same problem, had to go to wreckers to source the parts - maybe give them a go? POSTED BY: TIFFANY - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 29 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I had problem with the immobilizer (Verada 1997). The car sometimes did not start and then after about an hour it started. Eastern Mitsubishi sent the immobilizer to a computer company and they fixed it. It cost me $612. I hope they did a good job. POSTED BY: G.KOSA - BLACKBURN, VIC - AUS 18 JUN 2009 |
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TOYOTA KLUGER 2008: NOISE FROM START UP AFTER BEEN RESTING 1 HOUR *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I have finally found the noise is made after the car has rested about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. It seems to be a pressure problem in the variable timing solenoids which Toyota think has been a problem with the Aurion. They don’t know which one it is so they are not going to change them. The noise is like a starter motor not disengaging and makes a rat a tat sound after stared. It only happens 1 hour after running. If it has rested over night it won’t do it or if you try straight after running. |
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| POSTED BY: DERYCK CALOW - COCKBURN CENTRAL, WA - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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NISSAN NAVARA 4.0L 2007: RE: GETTING NO CUSTOMER SERVICE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I bought a 2007 Navara 4.0ltr petrol that at 1800km burnt out a catalytic converter, engine light etc. The dealer then replaced the cat converter and could find no reason for the failure. At 3700km a day before we went on holiday at Easter which was the main reason I bought this vehicle for, the engine light comes on and it devours 1/8 tank of fuel in 10km or so. Left without a vehicle for the trip I had to resort to my work vehicle which was lucky I had as Nissan said they could not provide me a suitable vehicle for the trip. |
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| POSTED BY: DARRAN K - BOULDER, WA - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN PATHFINDER 2008: GETTING NO CUSTOMER SERVICE - I purchased a Nissan Pathfinder 9 months ago. Up to now I have been very happy with it. I took it to a Nissan dealer for a 20,000 klm service. After that service I noticed that there was something wrong - but couldn't put my finger on it. Nissan also couldn’t find a problem. That was a week ago, my family for the last 6 months have planned to use the Pathfinder to take our Caravan to Coffs Harbour in NSW. We were to leave last Saturday. However Friday the car was playing up and I took it back to Nissan . After extensive tests it was revealed that there was a problem with the car. It looks that a fuel relay valve has malfunctioned or a more serious problem of a faulty Injector pump. Today I learnt that the latter was the problem. I have been told by Nissan that before they can commit to do anything they have to wait for the test results to come back from Nissan Australia to verify that the warranty applies and that the car will be fixed. That I can understand, however I expressed the urgency of the problem as we were scheduled to leave last Saturday and the whole family was waiting on news that we would have the car up and running soon. This did not happen. I am still waiting on Nissan to confirm that the warranty is valid. There is no talk that the car will be ready to drive away before Easter. Customer Service is sitting on their hands not committing to a replacement vehicle and I am at my wits end waiting to see what Nissan are going to do. We have planned this holiday for the last 6 months and purposely bought a Pathfinder specifically to tow the caravan. We feel very let down in that we would have thought that the problem would have been picked up over a week ago when I bought the Pathfinder in for a service. Now that our van is fully loaded and ready since last Saturday with all the family anxious to hit the road and we are now stranded. If the vehicle cannot be fixed in time before Easter I implore that some common sense prevails and a replacement vehicle is supplied." POSTED BY: BRENDON CONSIDINE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 6 APR 2009 |
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KIA CARNIVAL 2002: OIL IN COOLANT. *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
After just 88000ks our family Carnival is suffering from oil in the coolant. It would have been a **** at 388k's but not at 88k's. We have had to buy another vehicle to get around in as this one has left us in the lurch. Does KIA read these complaints? My condolences to other carnival owners. |
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| POSTED BY: MICK GRIFFITHS - IPSWICH, QLD - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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MITSUBISHI MAGNA V6 3.5L 0: RE: TAPPETS NOISY RECENTLY ANY SUGGESTIONS? OIL CHANGE? REPLACE? *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I had the same noise... have done 180,000 turned out to be low oil levels, especially after the hot summer. Did oil change and brought levels back up. Put in lifter-stop additive... sweet now, quiet as a mouse, until I let the wheels spin up! Hope your problem is nothing major. |
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| POSTED BY: LEB - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== I have 2 TH Magna and had the problem with noise but if you change oil and filter every 5000 kms - synthetic oil should be fine. I did 305000 kms, never had a problem or anything mechanical. Never changed timing belt - still runs smoothly. POSTED BY: ALI - DANDENONG, VIC - AUS 16 DEC 2008 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "MITSUBISHI MAGNA V6 3.5L 0: TAPPETS NOISY RECENTLY ANY SUGGESTIONS? OIL CHANGE? REPLACE? - Evening, Any feedback regarding this will be greatly appreciated. In the past 2 weeks I have noticed a consistently noisy rattling coming from the engine - of which I have been told is the tappets. Admittedly I know very little about cars and apart from the vague glazed look in my eyes, I can usually get by by simply bluffing. However, this sound is really starting to **** me. Although I have been told by family and friends, and not surprisingly the dealer where I have been getting it serviced that "it's nothing to worry about" I'm choosing to worry about it cause a V6 3.5lt shouldn't sound like my grandpas lawn mower. It was last serviced about 4000k ago and had the timing belt changed and an oil change and all that other jazzy stuff I know little about, and is now at about 108,000. So it is still a nice young philly by any standards surely. I am reluctant to just go with what the dealer says or quotes, so I was wondering if anyone else out there had had the same issues with noisy tappets around the same kilometer age or earlier and what they found was the best fix the issue. And by 'fix', I mean 'cure', not 'band-aid', cause if I am to replace the tappets and fork out a thick wad of cash, I want to know that the sound won’t come back. Coincidently, how much would it cost to replace them if this were the best solution? Regards, Troy." POSTED BY: TROY MCMANUS - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 30 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi had same problem after new belt was fitted. 3 weeks later belt jumped one tooth which put valve timing out and tappets rattle. Fixed belt and no more problems - hope this helps. POSTED BY: ROD - PERTH, WA - AUS 25 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== It's a Magna... What do you expect? Don't stress too much, just listen to other ones and you will realise it’s a common characteristic! My TL (newer and less kms) started to do it before I got rid of it! POSTED BY: JAMES - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 4 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I too have seen the same problem after replacing the timing belt. If the mechanic is not careful, the cam can spin after taking the belt off. POSTED BY: AARON - MT GAMBIER, SA - AUS 21 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== We had exactly the same thing after we replaced our time belt on our Magna except our motor blew up as a result and we were unable to get the car from the Mitsubishi Mechanic to get a 2nd opinion for 48 hours - they would not release the vehicle. When they finally did release the vehicle, everything in the motor was how we had dropped it in apart from the timing belt which miraculously was in pristine condition again. We took the Mitsubishi dealership to VCAT but without the "Actual" motor in court we were unable to prove our case. Also Mitsubishi Australia customer care didn't give a ****. POSTED BY: MICHELLE PAGE - GLEN IRIS, VIC - AUS 5 OCT 2008 |
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NISSAN NAVARA DIESEL 2008: RE: LEMON *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I too am the extremely dissatisfied owner of a 2008 auto diesel Navara. Fuel consumption test by the local dealer as specified by Nissan Australia returned 15.95 litres per 100km highway cycle. The problem is the DPF, the manual versions do not have one (Why not?). I achieved nearly 20lt per 100km recently towing a trailer. |
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| POSTED BY: JUSTIN OCONNOR - WANGARATTA, VIC - AUS, 29/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA KING CAB 2008: LEMON - Hi all, I just bought a Nissan Navara D40 2.5 2008 Auto king cab. Had it two weeks and Nissan have had it in the workshop for a week fixing the (dpf) diesel particle filter, the warning light came on and wouldn’t go off .Fuel economy on it is total ****, it does 480klm to a full tank, which is 75litres. Nissan says it’s ok which I know it’s not, I am losing 200klm to a tank compared to my Hilux which just traded in for it. Does anyone know what I can do? Any help would be good. Heard about a tiapan exhaust with a chip. Does this work and without losing the warrantee? Let me know if I am wasting my time. Appreciate any help." POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 22 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Joe, The exhaust system on your D40 should be up to the job as standard unless you want a better sound. Your fuel consumption problem stems from either the factory ECU or the fact that when the factories install injectors they don't bother to calibrate them to match each other as a group of 4 or similar, straight out of box and in to motor. My 2008 D22 STR manual is running 600km plus around the city/suburbs (average is about 11.30L/100km), your D40 should be close to that if you had the manual. The autos are heavy on fuel, as many fellow Cairns D40 Auto owners have told me. A D-Tronic or one of those similar engine chip/recalibration units will give you some relief from the fuel burn issue (how much is a guess, each unit is different as is each vehicle and driver) but you really should get a diesel shop to service and set the injectors as a group of 4. Warranty wise, Nissan will most likely not want to know you after the installation. Its one of those choices you have to make. My suggestion is to grab a Brisbane phone book, look up the Bosch or similar accredited diesel workshops and have a chat to them, it may even be worth making a day trip to the big smoke to chat face to face with them, that way they should be able to look at the vehicle and give you prices and info to take home for you to go through. Hope this works out, at least you don't have the manual D40 and are doing $1500 plus clutches and flywheels every 8000 to 10,000km like some people are. Best of luck. Jason POSTED BY: JASON - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 23 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Justin All the best to you when taking Nissan to court. I’ve changed my tires so my speedo is good. I’ve had to put a lift kit on so it holds the weight. Going to get the injectors calibrated and put a cyclone fuel saver on and last of all going to get rid of the dpf. If all this fails to make the fuel economy better then I will sell it. I have never known a 4x4 you have to do so much to when its new only got 3000klm on it. Nissan used to be good years ago, they have gone down hill cheap **** with an expensive tag. Fuel economy I am getting is 14.84 litre per 100 km; 6.74 km / litre. Good Luck, Joe POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 30 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Justin, I am familiar with your problem and have referred it to the OFT and the ACCC. Nissan clearly have a problem with the 2.5l T/D Auto. ACCC believe not enough Australians are affected to warrant their intervention.Office of Fair Trading wrote to Nissan Australia but Nissan refused to answer so they just passed it on to the ACCC. DOT (who administer the 81/01) aren't any use either--- makes you wonder what these bodies are for. Contact me and I can give you a case number. Regards Al POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 30 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I'm happy to be part of this. I've had mine since January 2008 and I started keeping a log book shortly after that. Over the last 33,000 km's, I've achieved an average of 12.84 L/100 Km. The best I ever achieved (only once) was 10.22 L/100 Km going from Canberra to Sydney, which is basically a down hill run. Average on the highway is 11 to 11.5. Some time ago, I spoke to the Environmental Protection Agency in NSW about removing the DPF and they actually said they understood why I would want to remove the DPF. My argument is that I would assume the 20-30% increase in carbon emissions outweighed any benefit gained from removing soot from the exhaust. When I subsequently spoke to Nissan, they said that it wouldn't affect warranty unless the DPF removal directly caused a problem. Feel free to contact me, my D40 Navara has about 35,500 on the clock and I've been keeping a full fuel consumption history for the last 33,198 Km. Nissan has so far refused to help with this saying my fuel consumption figures are normal for the model. I did actually get one of the customer service reps to admit it was the DPF once. They haven't done that since though... Danny POSTED BY: DANNY - GOWRIE, ACT - AUS 28 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Justin I have a manual D40 about 2 years ago my diesel consumption went from under 9lt per 100kms up to around 16lt per 100. Other than resetting the computer, Nissan would not touch the vehicle, stating that it was still within spec. Tired of arguing for 9 months with Nissan and my local dealer, I spoke to Ray Miller of Turbo Engineering in Melbourne who diagnosed it over the phone as a stuck EGR valve and to get Nissan to fix it. The dealer would not touch it, so I took it to Ray and he dynoed the vehicle and fixed the EGR, (exhaust gas temp dropped from 650deg due to exhaust gasses constantly being fed back through the engine to 480). Fuel economy is back to normal. Paul POSTED BY: PAUL BAXA - COBRAM, VIC - AUS 11 JUN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Justin Have you taken Nissan to Court yet? I have had no success with them. I am getting 16 ltrs per 100 klm readings taken today, it’s been the same since the day I bought it. This is an auto and I don't tow with it. Please keep me informed if you need my testimonial I will give it if you get anywhere let me know. Thanks Joe. POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 14 JUN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Joe, What Justin said about the Manuals not having a DPF is true. My 2008 ST-R Manual does not have one. The only real difference is that Nissan have de-tuned this models motor to have less Power and Torque than the ST-X. The result is that my unit consistently pulls around the 10.70L/100Km unloaded used on city and freeway drives during the week. Best of luck if you take them legally, they will tie you up in paper trails and their $600 dollar an hour lawyers so fast your head will spin. Me, if you can't afford to get out of the vehicle into another manufacturers then I would be finding a good Diesel workshop and Exhaust Shop to work together to solve this for you by removing the DPF. Yes your warranty will be gone but with Nissan it never really existed anyway. Guys on this site have tried it and removing the DPF have worked for them. Best of Luck. Ja. POSTED BY: JA - AUS 16 JUN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== At last all my problems fixed, sold the peace of **** lost on it bought the Cab Chassis Land cruiser V8 diesel which has better fuel economy than the Navara. Will never buy another Nissan first and last time ever. Talked a lot of people out of buying them and there will be a lot more people not buying them. **** Nissan hello and welcome back Toyota! Good luck with your Nissans. POSTED BY: JOE OLOUGHLIN - WINDAROO, QLD - AUS 21 JUN 2009 |
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FORD TERRITORY TX 2004: SPLIT FUEL TANK *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
I took my 2004 Territory in for a 60K service with what I thought were a few minor faults. The first was a split power steering hose and second was a fuel leak at the tank. On explaining this to the service person I received a phone call an hour or so later telling me I need 2 replacement lower ball joints at $750 supplied and fitted and the power steering high pressure hose was $595. |
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| POSTED BY: DOUG PERKETT - LAUNCESTON, TAS - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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HOLDEN BARINA 2008: DOES OR HAS ANYONE HAD ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THE HOLDEN BARINA 2008 MODEL *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
My car is 8 months old and I’m having electrical problems such as ABS light coming on and staying on and warning lights coming on at random times and going off and on constantly even when car is off. Also speedometer not working. Please if anyone has or has had this problem please contact me as I want to make sure they fit it because my Holden dealer keeps dismissing it. It’s really annoying as I have driving out the hour to them to get it fixed four times now and nothing? |
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| POSTED BY: CARIN FITZPATRICK - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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HOLDEN ASTRA AH CD 2005: RADIO COMES ON WHEN CAR TURNED OFF - DRAINS BATTERY *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
My wife's Astra has a problem with the radio. The radio is a Blaupunkt CD30. It turns itself on. Sometimes it tries to read a CD when there is not one loaded. It then defaults to the radio. This is a nuisance when you are driving but it becomes a bigger problem when the car is not in use. Despite the radio having been turned off and the car locked, the radio turns itself on and drains the battery overnight. The local Holden dealer said that he was aware of the problem and advised that the only fix was to install a new radio. He quoted $2000 for a new radio, and $1035 for a second-hand radio. The Astra was bought in August 2005 and is therefore out of warranty. |
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| POSTED BY: BRENDAN CUSACK - PERTH, WA - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Yes, the exact same thing is happening to my Astra bought 2005 but with a standard Holden/Astra radio. Only found it by accident after replacing the battery yesterday. Currently, I have pulled the fuses so it will not drain the battery and am waiting until Tuesday to contact a dealer. I will let you know how I go. Do you have a solution or any luck getting it fixed? My car is stock standard so but like yours out of warranty. Regards, Robert POSTED BY: ROBERT KNOKE - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 8 JUN 2009 |
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NISSAN NAVARA D40 2007: RE: LOSS OF POWER *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
This is a common problem since these vehicles entered the country. One of the faults/theories is that the computer loses its programme for the fuel curve for no apparent reason & that’s why Nissan can’t fix it because they don’t exactly know what’s causing it yet. |
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| POSTED BY: BOB - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS, 28/04/2009 | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA D40 2007: LOSS OF POWER - Bought 2nd hand Navara D40 Diesel Dual Cab 30000k, done another 10000k started to lose power. Found if switched off then started again ran normal. Into Nissan to find problem then the trouble really started. 3 months of the worst customer service, no returned phone calls to let us know what was happening with our ute. 10 weeks of no car (except the 2 times they returned it only to have it towed back again a day later) causing myself and family members to harass and threaten them. They finally come to with a hire car. Yippee. They replaced 2 fuel rails, 2 injector pumps, computer, injectors and whatever else. Still couldn’t tell us what was wrong with it. 12 weeks later finally got it back, fingers crossed, last Nissan we buy." POSTED BY: NICK TRUSCOTT - TOWNSVILLE, QLD - AUS 23 APR 2009 ========== UPDATE ========== Guess what, Tow truck just left carrying Dual Cab. What a lemon! POSTED BY: NICK TRUSCOTT - TOWNSVILLE, QLD - AUS 27 APR 2009 |
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MITSUBISHI MAGNA EI KF VERADA 1997: CANT GET ANY PARTS, MITSUBISHI DOES NOT STOCK THEM *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Trying to get engine computer & immobilizer. I can’t drive my car. |
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| POSTED BY: BRIAN OSBORNE - COBRAM, VIC - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== I had same problem, had to go to wreckers to source parts, maybe give that a shot? POSTED BY: TIFFANY - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 29 APR 2009 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA 1999: RE: NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT. IT HAS BEEN OVERHEATING NOW FOR A FEW YEARS *UPDATE* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi Anthony |
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| POSTED BY: DEBRA SMITH - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN ASTRA 1999: NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT. IT HAS BEEN OVERHEATING NOW FOR A FEW YEARS - I am getting very cranky, my car has been overheating off and on for two years now. I have had it back to where I bought it and they keep telling me they can not find anything wrong with it. It overheated again on Saturday so I took it to an auto electrician and he has had it since Wednesday. He just rang to see he has put it through all sorts of testing and can not find a fault with it. Does anyone else have a car that has had this problem? I would be greatly appreciated if someone knows of what could be causing this problem. It is making me mad because I can not drive it too far for fear it will overheat on me." POSTED BY: DEBRA SMITH - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Debra I have the same problem with my car, I would drive to work (no jokes 5km) pretty much by the time I get to work the temp gauge is dead set on the 100 deg mark. It’s been happening for a while now. I'm bringing my car to a mechanic this coming Monday if by some miracle he manages to find or fix the problem ill let you know. In the mean time check your car for leaks and make sure you have enough coolant. I put a bit of extra coolant in mine and sort of help remedy the problem but only lasted 3 weeks after that it was back to overheating again. P.S. don’t bother buying cheap coolant they don’t work at all Keep you posted Anthony POSTED BY: ANTHONY - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 24 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== This is a Myth, coolant does not make the liquid any more efficient at cooling. Pure water works fantastic, however it has a slight problem with corrosion in the form of rust in the block and bigger problems with mixed metals such as aluminium and other alloys, not forgetting electrolysis that uses stray electrical currents to eat away metals. Remember early Falcon thermostat housings. Some coolants can raise the boiling point and have an Anti-freeze effect at the other end of the scale but can be less efficient in heat transfer than pure water. I look at coolant purely at protecting my cooling system in relation to keeping it clean not as some magic potion to fix an overheating problem caused by something else. Not going to the snow? Why pay for Anti-Freeze that’s not needed. Cooling system clean and efficient? Why pay for Anti-Boil. Spend the extra on corrosion protection at the required strength or fix the real problem. I've seen a cylinder head pulled after hours of trying to fix an overheating problem. It didn't work as the problem was the voltage supply to the gauges in the dash, the owner had been busy changing coolants at great expense but never told anyone the fuel gauge also read a bit off. And we won't even mention the surface tension of some coolants permeating the porous head gasket material when overdosed. POSTED BY: GAZZA - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 25 APR 2009 |
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MERCEDES-BENZ ML350 2006: RICH, OBNOXIOUS VEHICLE OWNERS *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I would just like to respond to the comments made about Chateau Moteur. I am a very experienced vehicle technician and am more than used to these type of comments made by 'hard done by' vehicle owners whom do nothing but pretend to know the workings of their vehicle and what is best for it. The simple fact is, these vehicles are not Ford Falcons or Holden Commodores but extremely complicated pieces of technology. |
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| POSTED BY: JOHN DOE - , WA, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== John Doe... Are you on drugs? POSTED BY: OTTOAU - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 4 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Your experience seems to be behind a desk rather than under a car... you would be a dinosaur in these days. All cars are complicated bits of machinery today not just the Benz. At the prices Benz charge they should have diagnosed his problem within 15 minutes. A Benz is the easiest car to work on... not the hardest as you suggest! POSTED BY: PIERRE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 13 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I’m sorry, you must have misinterpreted my age. No I’m not a 'dinosaur’ as you described me, nor do I sit behind a desk. I have been on the spanners since I was 15 and have solely worked for Mercedes Benz and Porsche since then. Having said that I have dabbled even with BMW, Ferrari, Alfa, Holden, Toyota and Audi. Thanks to your comments, I have only proven my point further. If you knew bread from butter about cars, you would most definitely know that Mercedes Benz and BMW are at the forefront of technology development. Most other manufacturers just follow their ideas several years later and this is why I can safely say that I’m more up to date with vehicle diagnostics than you. Have you actually ever worked on a Benz? I find your comment of them being the 'easiest' car to work on quite humorous. I’m assuming you may be basing your theory on a brochure you read somewhere. Maybe in a glossy magazine? And yes, Mercedes Benz do charge quite a bit of money... because the vehicles are too complicated for the regular grease monkey." POSTED BY: JOHN DOE - , WA 16 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Mercedes Benz and BMW are at the forefront of technology! What drugs are you on? I work on these cars day in day out. Benz, VW, Audi, Volvo, all ****. I would put these cars in the same category as the Kia Carnival. Endless window regs, coolant temp sensors, throttle bodys, coils, air flow meters, and don’t forget the **** house automatics. You must do 3 autos a week. I agree with most of what you said, but no way are they at the forefront of technology. They’re trying to be, but failing. How many Toyota, Honda, Subaru’s, need brake disc and pads replaced at 60,000? Or autos rebuilt with a $5000-$9000 bill. My 89 model Camry is still on the original auto, air flow meter and discs. My 05 model Corolla might not handle as well as a BMW or VW Golf, but with 40,000 on the clock, never seen the dealer again and never had any problems as above. Also my auto shifts a heap better than any of the above vehicles. Don’t forget the Audi Dash boards. Had an 06 model in on Thursday that needs replacing. 43,000km. $1800 for a dash. I could go on for ever. This sums it up. I'd have a Holden or a Ford any day. Also Japs have it in the bag. POSTED BY: ANDREW - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 JUN 2009 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA 2000: RE: SOME CHEAPER SOLUTIONS TO FIXING AN ASTRA I.E. IDLE PROBLEMS, ELEC WIND ... *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Will try that and see what happens - thank you! |
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| POSTED BY: BIANCA MISSON - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN ASTRA TS CD 1.8 2000: SOME CHEAPER SOLUTIONS TO FIXING AN ASTRA I.E. IDLE PROBLEMS, ELEC WIND ... - Hi everyone, well like everyone else on here that has had a 1999-2005 Astra, they have had problems. My girlfriend got an Astra about two years ago and overall I would rate the Astra an alright car with many (ok, more than many) problems over the years. The car seems to be built ok but hasn't had the finishing touches to improve a car like most manufacturers do. They have obviously done this so the dealers make more money with repairs. The first problem we had was the cruise control. This is a bad one as it could be one of many things. I found the problem was a faulty button on the indicator stick and this was replaced under warranty but it did cost the dealer $150 (not a Holden dealership otherwise they would have said it’s not covered by warranty). No cheap fix for this one. The second problem was a leaky headlight. You can remove the headlight easily from the car and wipe out the excess moisture and reseal it very easily using any clear sealant for $15. Just make sure you let it dry for a day and carefully remove any excess sealant with a sharp blade. The third was the rear electric window. A Holden dealership will charge between $550-$800 and say its 2-3 hours labor. Go to Motor Traders and buy the unit for about $300. Take the door trim off. There is a screw where the door handle is in the hand groove. Remove the little mesh section in the door next to the door handle, and at the bottom of the door, then carefully pull the door trim off as it is only held on by white tabs. Then you will see several pot rivets. There are four holding the power window unit on and from memory two holding the handle on (leave these). Drill out the four pot rivets carefully using a drill and an appropriate size drill bit. The unit can then be pulled out of the bottom of the door complete. Slide the new unit in and slot the window into it as you put it in place and pot rivet the new one in place with large pot rivets. Replace the door trim and test. I did this in about 45 minutes the first time I did it. The final is the idle problem. If you stop after driving and either your car stalls all the time or idle drops to about 500rpm and shudders, then lifts back up to normal, the computer will say unknown problem to the mechanic and some better mechanics will know this is the idle control valve on your throttle body. A Holden dealership will tell you need a new one but it will cost about $800 as it’s all joined to the throttle body. I removed the inlet pipe going onto the throttle body, (the big black one) by loosening a hose clamp and looked inside. There was a thick oil coating everywhere inside from the emissions hose (can’t remove it!). So clean all of that out with a rag and open the throttle with your hand and clean as much as you can (whatever you do, don’t drop anything down there as you wont be able to get it out without pulling the engine apart). Then put the inlet pipe back on and start your car, as good as new. But earlier this morning the bonnet release cable has either broken or come off under the hood and I can’t open it and have been told the only way to do it is to smash the grill to get to the latch. Great engineering by the Holden Astra team, once again! Hope this helps some people." POSTED BY: TORY SCAFE - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 19 AUG 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi just wondering with your idle problems, did it possibly over rev and not return to idle when changing gears? Had computer tested come up with nothing ... just wondering if maybe you had a possible thought about it. It’s a Ford Ka car but? Thanks for any input if you have any ideas. POSTED BY: LINDSAY BROWN - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 24 SEP 2007 |
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KIA CARNIVAL 1999: 1999 MODEL BLOWN HEAD, GASKET ETC. NEED A MANUAL *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I am looking for a manual/info to help with rebuilding the motor on the car I have just bought. I wish I had found this web page before letting my husband talk me into buying a Carnival. He wouldn’t believe anybody & there were a lot of them including mechanics & owners that had experienced blown motors & diff problems. |
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| POSTED BY: ROBYN HARDING - NEWCASTLE, NSW - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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HOLDEN ASTRA CITY TS 2000: OIL LIGHT ON AT IDLE / LOW REV AROUND 900RPM *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
After a service the oil light now comes on at idle / low revs (approx 900rpm)... goes out after approx 950/1000rpm. Some ideas were that at service engine was started without oil being re-added. |
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| POSTED BY: BIANCA MISSON - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 28/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== There’s a small plastic non-return valve located in the oil filter housing. It's either broken or damaged, causing low oil pressure. Part is available from Holden. Good luck. POSTED BY: DAVID - ENGADINE, NSW - AUS 1 MAY 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi there, I have a similar problem with my TS Astra 2001. After an oil and filter change, it started to make this clicking noise (hydraulic lifters I think), as well as the oil light goes on at idle, but when over 2000rpm it goes off. Only started doing it after the service. So I’m assuming it probably needs an oil flush. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks all. POSTED BY: MIKE, SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 7 SEP 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Have had simular problem on Astra. If the oil filter is an element type where the housing is located on the front of the engine you have to undo the top of the housing to remove and replace the filter. Sometimes mechanics do them back up so tight that when you undo them when doing a service the locator pin for the housing snaps off. After replacing and retightening the housing top the housing moves round slightly which then blocks the oil feed hole. Now the oil light will come on. To rectify this fault you have to buy new oil filter housing from Holden. Once fitted oil light fault should now be rectified. POSTED BY: JUST MECHANICS - WANGARA PERTH, WA - AUS 16 DEC 2009 |
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TOYOTA RAV4 2001: RE: TRANSMISSION FAILS ON 6 YEAR OLD CAR *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
That is unbelievable Cliff. I've been following this story on this site for quite a while now, which appears to be a worldwide problem. |
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| POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 27/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== "Hi Rod, I have done a fair bit of research on this problem and despite my initial research and the evidence that it was a hardware fault in the ECM the local Toyota dealer did their standard tests and decided the fault was in the transmission because no fault codes were found. After discussions with automotive colleagues at local TAFE we did further research that identified that the problem is a tie up in the transmission caused by incorrect activation of the SL1 solenoid. Further research found information on testing the ECM signal to the SL1 solenoid (this controls the hydraulic pressure to engage direct clutch) and the resulting pressure. We have tested my RAV4s signal to the solenoid and have replicated the fault both times we tested the vehicle. The solenoid is a pulse width modulated solenoid that for correct clutch operation receives from the ecm a pulsed 12v signal at a 50% duty cycle this keeps the hydraulic pressure to the clutch exhausted and the clutch disengaged until the third and 4th (over drive) is selected. The ECM signal then drops to 0 volts closing the valve and pressurizing the clutch. The tie up occurs when the pulse width begins to drop below 50% and the pressure begins to build. At about 40% pulse width pressure is around 25psi and just enough to initiate engagement. At 25% pulse width pressure is 55psi and the clutch is fully engaged tying up the transmission. This is clearly seen in the video of the test. No fault codes are reported for this tie up because as far as we can determine in the diagnostics the selection of third when the transmission is supposed to be in first is not reported only 1-2. Another interesting point is that the fault generally occurs after the ECM reaches operation temp (around 28-35 degrees) so make sure the test runs for 45 to 60 minutes. Also as it seems from this test that it is an electronic component failure therefore the fault may exhibit some variations. For example in the first test we measured 55psi while in the second it reached 27psi. These tests were carried out at idle with no load on the drive. Continuous operation in this condition will eventually burn the direct clutch hence the reports of gearboxes being replaced as well as ecms. I have some video footage of the test and other information required to carry out this test. The tools required are simply a scope, pressure gauge and a hoist and takes about 15 minutes to setup so you can probably confirm it is the ECM within an hour. Despite the research and test results achieved Toyota gave me the runaround finally saying the vehicle needed to be sent to Terry Shields Toyota in Parramatta for transmission removal and assessment with no guarantee of warranty. I discussed this with the Terry Shields service manager who agreed that an ECM change would probably solve the problem if the transmission was not damaged. In view of this, Toyota’s attitude to the problem and a reluctance to have a dismantled vehicle in Sydney and a fight with Toyota about the cost of repairs and their share (where Toyota have come to the party in Australia it has only been for part payment). I found a Melbourne company Injectronics who repair ECMs. A quick call to them confirmed they had had some RAV4 ecms in for repair. So the ECM is out (5 min job) and off to Injectronics via their agent Repco. Turn around is a week and cost around $400. I will let you know how I go with the reinstallation and testing for transmission damage. Apparently the advantage of having your ECM repaired is there is no need to program the computer to the car (keys etc) nor relearn the settings for the transmission both of which require the services of the dealer. I am happy to share as much as I know about this problem and expose the slackness of Toyota in accepting they sold a vehicle with a faulty component and providing as much help in sorting out the fault. Regards, Cliff" POSTED BY: CLIFF - TAREE, NSW - AUS 26 APR 2009 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "TOYOTA RAV4 2001: TRANSMISSION FAILS ON 6 YEAR OLD CAR - After 6 years, and 90,000 kilometres of having my 2001 RAV4 regularly serviced by the dealer at considerable expense, the ECU (transmission computer) has faulted and caused "transmission burning clutches and contaminating internals". The repair has been quoted at $7000.00. I would like to know if this is a problem others have encountered and to warn others considering a RAV4 of this possible issue. The car has only been driven on the road under normal conditions." POSTED BY: CORRINE MARSHALL - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 27 SEP 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Just went through exactly the same problem. Our repair bill was just under $8000. I have a five door 2002 RAV4 automatic cruiser. First the car was slipping in gears. It was not a gradual thing eihter ... it just suddenly failed. Upon inspection the clutches were burnt out. The gear box was repaired and it flamed another box. I had the computer checked by Toyota and an independent specialist and no fault codes etc. indicated a problem. In the end a new computer was put in, problem solved! Basically the ECU malfunctioned causing the gear box clutches to burn out. The ECU didn't even indicate any fault codes or go into the safe mode like they are suppose to. Gear box had to come out twice and so did the engine. I got a 24 month warranty on repairs ... make sure you do as well. Will be selling **** before that though! I was lucky that the workshop I go through is owned by a friend and was not charged for the engine coming out 2 and a half times. POSTED BY: SCOTT - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 24 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had the same problem. Cost of repairs 4500 to $6000. I have a RAV4 2002 114.000ks. It will take 2 weeks to repair then sell. POSTED BY: LEIGH - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 5 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2001 Rav4. I took my car to the dealer for the required maintenance as I always do. I asked them to check my transmission because my car was slipping into 2nd gear. I was told that I now need an ECU because the computer is not telling the car to change gears the way it is supposed to. I see that this is a common problem, I was quoted $1500.00 for the replacement. It sounds like I need to get rid of my car. POSTED BY: ADRIAN - GA, USA 20 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2002 Rav4. Same problem. The gearbox started slipping due to the computer failure, and I have been told the repair bill will be $6500. I am not sure what to do, as I will not be getting the money back when I try to sell the car. POSTED BY: PAUL GRUNDY - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 4 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, did you get the ECM/ECU recalibrated according to the TSB issued in March of 2006? POSTED BY: CHRIS - VANCOUVER, BC - CANADA 8 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Please contact me re 2002 Rav4 4 transmission problems. I am part of 23 people who have gotten replies from that are gathering information for a class action suit on this problem. POSTED BY: JOANNE MOORE - FRANKLIN, USA 31 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I would like to get more information about the class action suit. I am starting the debacle that I see is going to get very costly... POSTED BY: BEVERLY TOOKEY - CARY, NC - USA 15 APR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I bought my 2002 RAV4 in November of 2006. The check engine light stayed on constantly. I was told it was an O2 sensor and that it would take $300 to fix but that it did not affect the car's performance. In February I received a notice that I should take the vehicle to the dealer to have a recall taken care of, which I did. The check engine light went off but I started having transmission problems. I took it to the dealer and they charged me $150 to check it out. They said I needed a new computer ($1,300). I then took it to a transmission specialist to check out ($85.00). He said it was not my transmission but the computer (EMC). I started researching and found out about this problem being not just mine. Being a single mother with two children and on a very tight budget, this is my only transportation, which I do not consider safe until this gets fixed. I was having this shifting problem in a very busy intersection and was very upset with the fact that Toyota would not stand behind their product and fix the EMC at no cost to the consumer. POSTED BY: KRYSTIE DUNN - MOBILE, AL - USA 26 JUN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Having same problems - have to replace the computer in mine but will hold onto the bad one just in case Toyota ever decides to step up and back their product. Please let me know if anything develops. POSTED BY: JAMES THAMES - MARIETTA, GEORGIA - USA 30 JULY 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Me Too! Same thing just happened to our 2002 Rav4, 5 door. I got up one morning, started to drive to work and the gears started slipping. I took it Straight to the garage and they said the ECU needed replacing... $4000! This has to be some kind of design fault. We simply don't have the money to repair it! I can't tell you how angry I feel about this! POSTED BY: LYNN MORESI - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 1 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== If there is a law suit going on I would like to get the info on it. My Rav4 just started its trip downhill. POSTED BY: GSINGLE381 - MONTGOMERY, AL - USA 5 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just bought a 2001 Rav cruiser auto and the gears were also slipping. This is after 2 **** days of owning it. I took it back to car yard yesterday and it is at the mechanics now while I wait for an answer. I was issued a 3 month warranty but after reading all these comments I now feel like **** and can see it is obviously a common problem! I will keep you posted to see what it ends up being. It has really **** me off. POSTED BY: JODIE B - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 19 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== For those of you being quoted $7-$8k to repair the gearbox, you are being ripped off, get an exchange box." POSTED BY: ROBERT GREGSON - NOWRA, NSW, AUS 21 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2004/5 model Rav4 Cruiser, fully loaded. It has traveled 67,000 km. No problems so far. It is very reliable and quality can be felt when driven. I hope people with the same year model have not faced transmission problems. Seems that Toyota has rectified the problem. Any feedback on my model? POSTED BY: RONEEL KUMAR - PALMERSTON, ACT - AUS 21 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Toyota in Melbourne area has only 2 dealerships that service transmissions and they could not even look at my car for 3 weeks then it was going to take 6-8 weeks for them to repair, what a disappointment in Toyota. Luckily I found another transmission expert to fix it and had it back in a week! Saving thousands in rental car fees! If you have a 2001 RAV4 get it rid of it before this happens. By the way Toyota quoted me $6000.00 to fix it and I would be without the car for almost 3 months, what a deal! POSTED BY: DANA - PORT MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 22 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== TOYOTA RAV 4 2001 1007,000 KM. ECU - TRANSMISSION ISSUES - I have had the same issues with the ECU as you all manifesting with the transmission suddenly slipping, literally an overnight phenomenon. I had the car checked by usual mechanic whith handheld computer diagnostics, no fault codes; however symptoms still there so stopped driving the car and started to ring around to inform myself. The answers came back thick and fast, it was as if every one could diagnose the problem without even seeing the car. They literally told me what year and model car I had after briefly describing the problems. "Change the ECU ($1700- $2100) and if you are lucky that may fix the problem, if unlucky and you drove the car without noticing in time the transmission will need replacing ($3500 -7500)" was the standard reply. After reading all the posts on web about this and speaking to dozens of independent transmission workshop Experts & Mechanics, I have contacted NRMA, Dept of fair trading, and Channel Seven and Nine regarding doing a story on their "Current Affair", & "Today Tonight" programs as there are some massive safety issues related to this situation - my wife & two young children were nearly rammed by other vehicles several times at traffic lights because of transmission suddenly slipping, the media are interested in this ! I have several experts willing to go on record and speak about this issue. Let me know if you want to form a group to bring this issue into public awareness thus encouraging Toyota to take responsibility for their products and stop sweeping this under the carpet. After my local Toyota workshop replaced the ECU ($1682) the vehicle seemed Ok, but as the transmission will not show up any fault code if it is damaged only time will tell! Confidence in the brand Toyota is now at a very low point with me. Before paying my repair bill I contacted Toyota customer relations Sydney / Taren Point / Tel: 02 9710 3333 and made a serious complaint regarding this issue and informed them of my awareness of just how widespread this issue is and how the media is interested in doing a story on this matter (in 2006 these vehicles were recalled in the USA for software upgrade a free service). Anyway they spoke to the dealer, the dealer spoke to the warranty department and lo and behold they came to the party and reduced my repair bill by $800. This is a start however I am convinced that this should be a free recall service and if transmissions are damaged due to a faulty ECU that controls it the transmission is by definition Collateral Damage for which Toyota also should be responsible and prepared to assist their loyal (till now) customers. If you have your car repaired by Toyota you could try to call customer service prior to paying your bill and hopefully this way you too can at least save some money and collectively we will eventually encourage Toyota to adjust their denial strategy about this matter. Please raise awareness about this issue & tell everyone you know! POSTED BY: RICKY STRONG - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had a similar failure. Cost of repair still unknown. Is this just manifesting itself because of the age of the car and if so is this going to become a more frequent event I wonder. My local Toyota garage say that this failure is unknown by themselves and Toyota. In fact it is the first one. POSTED BY: MAURICE LUSCOMBE - READING, UNITED KINGDOM 8 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Well I got my car back after 2 weeks after a new computer was put in and a reconditioned gear box. I was so excited, but after another 2 days there was a sound like a helicopter blade going round and round in the 2 front tyres so once again back to the car yard to wait another 4 days and the wheel bearing needed replacing! I am totally over this piece of **** I have had my new car a total of 4 days out of 3 weeks and Toyota have A Lot to answer for I tell you! My local car yard have been fantastic but they have done what needed to be done no questions asked given me a loan car when by law they don’t have to. They are also out of pocket with this being that mine is still under warranty. I also thought of contacting Today Tonight or ACA over this. Some attention has to be brought to this serious Fault with this car! So fingers crossed I get this piece of **** back tomorrow! POSTED BY: JODIE B - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 9 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Me too. Exactly the same thing has just happened to my 2002 3 door Rav Cruiser at 65,000 K and I've been quoted $6000 for repairs to the transmission and ECU. It too has been regularly serviced and only driven on surfaced roads. As soon as I was told about it I googled the problem and found pages and pages of complaints in the USA as well as all the Australian ones here. I will approach Toyota Customer Service on Monday as a start, but clearly we can have more effect if we work together. I would like to be part of any campaign or group action to get Toyota to take some responsibility for this. I will post feedback on this site. POSTED BY: ANDREA STERN - COOGEE, NSW - AUS 12 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a question, is the shifting problem only in automatic 2002 Rav4 's or in the 5 speed manual too? Let me know thanks, Tasha POSTED BY: TASHA - PETERBOROUGH ONTARIO - CANADA 23 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Andrea I keep getting angrier and angrier each time I read this complaint forum! I can’t believe the exact same thing keeps happening with all of these cars. Clearly it is a major fault which the customer is paying for! Just wanted to know if you had any luck contacting Toyota? Cheers, Jodie POSTED BY: JODIE - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 12 NOV 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Is this only a problem with automatics? I'm considering buying a manual 2001 or 2000. But the one I was going to look at this weekend ia an auto. Will steer clear. I am assuming these are all auto's having this problem. Look forward to advice. POSTED BY: MICHELLE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 13 NOV 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had the same problem with my 2002 RAV4 98,000kms which I have had from new. Without any warning the auto transmission started jolting badly when put into reverse and then two days later the car was slipping gears when I was driving to work. I had it towed to my auto transmission specialist and he said this is a very common problem with the RAV4 at approx 100,000kms - he has just repaired 6 in the past few months. My ECU needs replacing and I won’t know until this is done as to whether I also will need to have the clutch replaced. Total cost $1,000 for the ECU and $2800 if it is the clutch. I hope this is the end of this! My car has always been serviced at Toyota and they never warned me about this problem. Not happy! POSTED BY: D BOYLE - CROYDON, VIC - AUS 21 JAN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I am interested in the class action suit against Toyota for the ECM problem on the RAV4. I have went through the same sort of headaches that others have mentioned on this thread. Thanks, POSTED BY: GEORGE BATES - SPARTA, NJ - USA 11 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hello everyone, I am concerned about our 2002 RAV4 automatic transmission. It has 112,000k on the clock and full service history no hard work, wife’s car bitumen roads only. I pulled the transmission dipstick to check it and discovered the transmission oil is burnt and smells as well. No apparent operational error in the drivability of the car as yet. What I have found is a technical service bulletin from overseas from Toyota, please read TC002-06 you can search for this on Google. For the factory to put out a bulletin there has to be serious issues with the transmission and therefore the potentially unsafe operation of the car in heavy traffic conditions. Please be wary of your gearboxes and treat it like gold very carefully! This bulletin was issued around March 2006 and it applies to all 2001 - 2003 Rav4 Autos and it also specifies that the electrics of the car are to blame i.e. the computer. Also specifies a warranty period of 96 months or 80,000 miles, that equals 96 months or 128,744km that’s very generous overseas. So where do we stand in Australia as our car is 78 months old and 112,000k? POSTED BY: GARRY - HOBART, TAS - AUS 15 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I have a similar tale with our 2002 Rav4 with 67000km on the clock. ECM went kaput damaging the auto trans and planetary gear set. Spoke with a guy at ‘customer experience centre’ on 1800 252 097 and oh what an experience! Certainly was not customer care. He, **** basically said if you had gone to a Toyota dealership they may have been able to help. It turned out it would have had to have been a particular type of dealer but hey I’m only an ex Toyota customer. So find out the hard way. Anyway after I mentioned the complaints websites here and America and the document TC 002-06 he suddenly knew enough to say the American model had totally different bits in yadda yadda but no problems were apparent in Australia! As I asked to speak with his boss he refused and said that he had complete authority in managing my customer expectations! So no joy there. I’ve contacted the state Toyota office and await their call back. It would seem that from the website there are sufficient complaints to have elicited some sort of company response to them because if America can issue some sort of remedy surely Australia could too? What has been your progress? I will keep you and the site up to date on mine. Cheers POSTED BY: DAVID - FREMANTLE, WA - AUS 20 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== You can add another unhappy RAV4 owner to your list. Transmission completely **** on 2001 5 door Cruiser, just over $100,000kms. Quoted $7000 to repair and Toyota dealership service department said it was a common problem in the RAV. For such a common problem, why is it so expensive to repair and why hasn’t Toyota been held accountable for this debacle? POSTED BY: AYLEE - BELGRAVE, VIC - AUS 12 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Add another 2002 Toyota Rav4 to the list of faulty/failing transmissions due to a bad ECU. This car is almost 7 years old, and Only has 81k on the odometer. Owned by the same person since new, always serviced by a Toyota technician (me), using genuine parts. It's disgusting really... having to gamble whether a new ECU may or may not fix the problem if found early enough. I've convinced the owner to stop driving it, and trade it in, preferably to a Toyota dealer. Let them deal with a possible $6000 repair. Sadly, they would probably wholesale the vehicle once they find the problem, and let some other sucker deal with it. When it comes to goodwill assistance, Toyota are pathetic! POSTED BY: JOE - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 15 MARCH 2009 ========== REPLY ========== 2002 Toyota Rav4 - 96,000 on the clock. Automatic transmission **** - Have lost first and fourth completely. I have been quoted minimum charge: $3,000 to fix... could be a lot more. It appears this is a common problem amongst the 2001 and 2002 RAV4. POSTED BY: SIMON H - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 24 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Owner of a 2001 Rav Cruiser. Just experienced the same problem. 118000 km on the clock. Car serviced regularly but not by Toyota. The owner of the local dealership just got off the phone to me today and said, "Being an out of warranty claim Toyota don’t look favourably upon the fact that the car was not serviced by Toyota". Wish this had happened 2 months ago before I purchased another car from them. "Bugg**". Have my transmission specialist looking at the issues now and he is dealing with Toyota. His quotes are well under some of the quotes for the ECM and Auto listed here. Suggest everyone gets some extra quotes from their local transmission specialist. Any info I can provide to help anyone or they can provide me would be great. Fingers crossed. Good luck everyone. POSTED BY: ROD RICHARDSON - COFFS HARBOUR, NSW - AUS 31 MAR 2009 |
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FORD FALCON BA 0: RE: PANIC ALARM *REPLY* |
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The panic alarm problem will be with the remote, I have seen it numerous times. If you take the battery out of the remote instead of disconnecting the vehicle battery this will prove this. |
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| POSTED BY: VAUGHAN - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 27/04/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON BA 0: PANIC ALARM - Quoted $150 hour from manufacturer to investigate my alarm that keeps going off at all hours of the night and sometimes within 5 minutes of turning car off and locking manually with key during the day. Only by disconnecting battery do we get a good night sleep (with 3 kids under 6 years hard anyway without alarm waking all). The BA is also stalling for no reason when waiting at lights and once when it was when I was actually driving. Please help has anyone worked out problems as seen in previous forums others experienced the same as willing to go to Brisbane to see Sara if need be to get to bottom of this. Cheers on Edge." POSTED BY: VIKKI TILL - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 25 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Vikki. Try removing the battery from your remote/s for a night. Have had a few with jamming/touchy panic buttons on remote. (The remote signals the Body Electronics Module to pulse the horn). Stalling issue is best checked after checking the fault codes. By checking system for codes can identify an area to start a proper diagnosis. Check battery power/ground connections first, then check all connections in engine bay for security. Check connectors under dash also, especially if there has been previous work done in this area (alarms, phones, bluetooth etc…) Dav POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS 26 APR 2009 |
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