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| COMPLAINTS
CORNER |
complaints.motorsm.com |
| "Complaints Corner" provides an online billboard to publicize problems or complaints about your car or poor after-sales support from dealerships and manufacturers. Good news about exceptional customer service etc. will also be published. N.B. MotorSM is not responsible nor endorse views expressed by contributors. | |
| MAR 2009 - COMPLAINTS CORNER POSTINGS 2009: 2 1 2008: 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2007: 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2006 |
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HOLDEN CREWMAN VY II SS 2004: RE: VY 5.7 CREWMAN DRIVETRAIN VIBRATION AND DIFF NOISE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi I own an 04 VY II SS Crewman. Done 98 thou kms. Broke my velocity joint twice and then managed to break the spot welds inside the axle tubing and put the tubing up the side of the diff housing. So I did what all you crewman owners should have done. Buy a custom Ford 9 inch with sheet metal housing and bigger billet axles. Everything replaced with bullet proof items. Stop *** around with weak parts that Holden make and go for tried and tested parts from a trustworthy diff specialist. My 9 inch looks amazing and sounds awesome. Not to loud though. I had 4.11 diff gears put in and it goes a lot better now as well. Fuel economy is fantastic as well. |
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| POSTED BY: D MORRIS - TOWNSVILLE, QLD - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN CREWMAN VY 5.7 2003: VY 5.7 CREWMAN DRIVETRAIN VIBRATION AND DIFF NOISE - VY11 5.7ltr Crewman, pulsing vibration very noticeable on normal take off till about 25km/hr then slowly blends out (but still there). Feels like there is a lump in the tyres or a faulty harmonic balancer, or a severe tail shaft balance problem, I'm putting my money it diff problems. Car has done 35K. Left hand rear brake pad rubs while turning left. Diff wind noticeable at about 50km/hr and gets louder and louder the faster the car goes. It's very embarrassing having people in it. I'd hate 2 do an interstate trip. Will drive me crazy. I've rang 3 well known diff specialists and their comments were (there should be NO NOISE at all). Holden dealer says it needs the "new improved" bushes placed into the leaf springs. They stated that's all Holdens will supply and a new diff will require a full report. I'm 100% sure this will not fix the problem. Booked in on Friday for bushes. Problems seem to be getting worse each day. Had a VX Berlina V6 previously and I miss it! Smoothest ride I've ever had. The stress is actually getting to me. The problem is always on my mind, and I don't get that good feeling I should be having when I drive it. At worst, I will get the diff reconditioned myself for about $1300 and put a better gear ratio in it at the same time. These things weigh almost 2 tonne! I'm convinced the DANA is a good diff however I would put the faults down to quality in workmanship in the assembly line and possibly cheap axle bearings. If you get your diff redone, pay a little extra and put in some Timken ones. If anyone has the exact thing and has fixed the problem, please advise. If it works for me, I'll ship you a bottle of Johnny black. You have my word!" POSTED BY: C ANDREWS - MELB, VIC - AUS 6 MAR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, I've got a VY SS 2004 done 80 000 kms. I had the diff done 3 times and the diff winde is gone but the backlash clunk is still there. I took a brand new one for a drive. It's a bad designed car and it should have a two piece tail shaft like most of the Jap dual cabs. POSTED BY: B LACKO - MELBOURNE, VIC 24/3/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Have a VY Crewman S auto new in July 2004. I am onto 4th diff now @ 108000kms. Diff noise on first one came in around 15-20k. Waited many months for 2nd one & didn't even get to pass the road test so no. 3 was ordered. It took nearly 6 months to get that one as Holdens were having so much trouble with diffs there were no spares available. Number 4 is still going ok touch wood. I would insist on a new diff and see how it goes. I had no trouble with Holdens diagnosis it was just getting the diffs, and I believe the problems are still ongoing. Also had heaps of trouble with front struts clunking when going into driveways and rear spring packs squeaking. Other than that I would go for another one as it is so handy, handles well and tows a 171/2 foot caravan like you forget it is there most of the time. Push for a new diff and yes there is very light backlash in mine as well only noticeable when in steady traffic. Regards Rob POSTED BY: R KAVANAGH - MAROOCHYDORE, QLD - AUS 26 MAR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Johnny I had the same problem with the diff not even 5k old. The diff was making noise. Taking it back so many times it was **** me off. I had a mate that worked for Holden 40k from me and gave it to him for 2 weeks. I got a new diff, a new clutch kit, new rear windows. Holden knows there is a problem but it’s who you know not what is right. Now I have a brake squeaking problem. Never ends. POSTED BY: CHRIS FLOROS - CLAYTON, VIC - AUS 5 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have an AWD VZ Crewman Cross 6 that I also believe has severe drive train issues, which Holden don't seem to want to know about or fix: 1) Vibration through the car from 70 to 100 k's. 2) Driveline backlash. 3) Whining noise on trailing deceleration or light acceleration. 4) Knocking noise particularly when under load on hills or towing. Other warranty issues have also been rectified with the body such as rear window frames misaligned and jamming electric windows, misaligned glove box, fuel filler cap not shutting, blemish in glass in the windscreen on the drivers side (had to be replaced). The car has covered 45,00kms and I certainly would not recommend one to anyone I knew. Can't wait to trade it in on a Hilux! POSTED BY: COBEY - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 20 MAY 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi there, I have a VY Cross8 with 97000 on it. About 10,000 k ago it developed a vibration and noise between 95 and 115 kph. As you say a bit embarrassing with passengers. The local dealer diagnosed loose balancers within the tailshaft and replaced the tailshaft, problem gone. My suspension sagged about 40mm in the rear and 25mm in the front at an early stage, about 35000km. The then dealer basically told me to **** off so I fitted Fusch struts 45mm over I think and Pedders rear springs/shocks with 50mm lift blocks. Best thing I could have done, rides better, handles better and has a bit more clearance, yes it does get off-road. Apart from that and an annoying habit of door locks setting the alarm off I reckon it’s a great car for my usage. POSTED BY: TIM - , WA - AUS 7 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Just wondering if you found out what the pulsing vibration was, mine is doing the same thing. It does feel like something in the tyre. POSTED BY: STEVE - MANGO HILL, QLD - AUS 9 JAN 2009 |
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SUBARU IMPREZA RX 1997: USED CAR DEALERSHIP (ASHFIELD) MISREPRESENTED VEHICLE SPECS TO SELL A CAR *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
On the 28th June 2008, I came to be on the premises of a second hand motor vehicle dealership, as they had a motor vehicle displayed for sale, which I was interested in finding out more about. When I entered the dealership, I had the sole intention of looking to purchase an Audi A3 which was for sale on the lot. The salesman asked the reasons for looking at the Audi. The sales person was quite inquisitive as to the nature of why I was only looking to purchase that particular brand of motor vehicle. I explained that I was after safety features such as an SRS Airbag. |
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| POSTED BY: JEAN-CHRISTOPHE ZAHRA - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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HOLDEN JACKAROO 1999: OIL PRESSURE SENSOR *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I have a 1999 Jackaroo which I have changed the oil in. I now can't get any oil pressure reading on the gauge and the oil lamp stays on when starting engine up. I am not sure if I have accidentally upset the sensor wiring when cleaning some spilt oil off the engine. Would be good if I could get a soft copy of the manual to refer to. |
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| POSTED BY: GARY HARRIS - MOUNT GAMBIER, SA - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Did you use 100% fully synthetic oil, about grade 0W-30? If you have used a normal mineral oil I'd be surprised if your vehicle even starts, it certainly won't start on a cold morning. Wiffco POSTED BY: WIFFCO - LILYDALE, VIC - AUS 1 APR 2009 |
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NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX DUAL CAB 2006: RE: DUD OF THE YEAR , 06, 07, 08 *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Mate at the moment I have given up. The thing is made of cast and I don’t want to break the sensors coming out, plus no one wants to do it, all about legal mumbo jumbo and emissions... How did you go any luck on your end? Also got a price from Nissan direct for a DPF filter if I break it and it was 2735. |
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| POSTED BY: MATT - BERRINBA, QLD - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX DUAL CAB 2006: DUD OF THE YEAR , 06, 07, 08 - At first I was truly impressed with my new car back in march 06, that is until the problems began! Firstly this problem with the brakes is ridiculous, I’m on my third set of rotors at $800 a pop! And I don't feel that I’m heavy on the brakes at all. [B] Rear brake lines cracked and leaked onto hub assembly, i.e. the whole rear had to be removed and replaced, one and a half weeks off road. [C] Airbag recall yet airbag light still remains on, which would mean another day off! [D] Drivers seatbelt will not retract by itself, I have to feed it back myself. I have taken this back countless times but problem keeps reoccurring. [E] Driving to Melbourne 20th of December from Qld in 08, car goes into limp mode at Wangaratta. I thought the turbo had gone because there was a massive drop in torque! Fortunately made it to Lilydale and left it with a dealer there on the 23rd of December. On Monday I got in touch with them to see how it was going and they informed me the engine fuel supply pump had failed and the car was over the km's but within the three 3yrs and would not cover this! So I got in touch with the customer service complaints dept and they said they would look into it. After a lot of phone calls between Nissan the dealer and me on Tuesday the 6th of January 09 they decided they would not replace the part under warranty, even though knowingly this part is a defect. Nissan initially said they would replace the part and I would have to pay for the labour, which I’d agreed to. But late that Tuesday afternoon they rang me to let me know that it would all be on me and there would not be any goodwill gesture on there behalf. The result was $1500 out of pocket and the car returned on the 8th of January ready for my trip back home to Qld! Fortunatly I had a friend who lent me a car for my family and I to use over the Xmas break. Another issue Nissan would not help out with. [F] And finally that rattle at low engine speed is very distinctive and seems to be getting worse; it’s only a matter of time before my engine blows too! I have a diesel auto [what a Xmas break]! This case is currently with the office of fair trading." POSTED BY: NIGEL HUSSEY - BURPENGARY, QLD - AUS 10 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hey mate, I'm sorry to hear about all your dramas with your D40 Navara. I see your point with the rotor situation. They don't last as long as they should, I've replaced them at 35, 40, 45, 50, 55000km intervals on a variety of Navaras and Pathfinders. I've never heard of the brake lines cracking though, so that’s pretty unusual. The airbag recall that was carried out on your Navara would have been the recall which reprograms the airbag control unit. This should not have kept your airbag light on, so you should have your dealer check the Airbag Control Unit. It could be a voltage spike or short on a seatbelt stork or could be an airbag itself. I have heard of the YD25 diesels in the Navaras having a noisy timing chain, which required a new chain and sprockets as well as a Lot of labour. A very big and time consuming job. But after they were replaced, it rectified the problem.. I'm a Nissan mechanic by the way. If you have any more dramas, I'd love to hear about them just so I know what other Nissan owners around Oz are dealing with. Cheers mate, James POSTED BY: JAMES MERRITT - GLADSTONE, QLD - AUS 22 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Mate you are a Nissan mechanic, can you tell me why I am only getting 390 - 440 to a full tank of diesel. I fill it to the top and I can see the fuel, it is an auto T/D D40. I am trying to get Nissan to help out but they say no and will charge for labour as there are no fault codes. If you can help this would be great. POSTED BY: MATTHEW - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 27 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I can't give you an exact answer but I can help you work it out. What kind of accessories (bullbar, towbar, specially made tray, etc) do you have fitted? Weight in vehicle (toolboxes, etc)? How often do you have your vehicle serviced? Using the correct oil and service intervals are very important. Also basics like tyre pressures, using 2HIGH, auto/manual, driving conditions and style vary fuel consumption. How much fuel are you using per 100km? I worked out that you're using 18.18-20.51L per 100km with the figures you provided but are not as accurate as they're calculated with an 80L tank and the tank is never completely empty. Cheers mate... Look forward to hearing from you. James POSTED BY: JAMES MERRITT - GLADSTONE, QLD - AUS 28 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== 'And finally that rattle at low engine speed is very distinctive and seems to be getting worse' With regards to the above statement, I also have the same problem with my 2006 D40. Just got back from 7 days 4x4 trekking around Fraser Island. The noise gets considerably more distinct when the motor is under load - although this is Not always the case. I have 2 mates who also bought D40's of which one D40 is experiencing the exact symptoms. Caboolture Nissan dealer told him it was pipes rattling against the firewall. Exactly what pipes - brake, a/cond, fuel I'm not sure. The idea does sound plausible however. With regards to D40 clutches, mine hasn't missed a beat however, several people I know have had clutches fail anything from 20K to 40K. This is obviously a problem that Nissan are covering up. I drive my Navara hard and get approx 750 Klms between fills. Hope this helps. POSTED BY: PAUL MCDOUGALL - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 3 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, Do you have the manual diesel D40? I have the manual D40 Diesel and only get 580km until the light goes on i.e. aprox. 68L. I have not been in the 10's yet with this car. Thanks, Marco POSTED BY: MARCO TESMER - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 9 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I have an auto T/D. It is only me driving to and from work 15klms down the highway no stop first exit and I’m there. No bulbar just me. However I went to Nissan today for a meeting with a warranty rep from Nissan who told me "under the table" the problem is the DPF filter and that I should remove it. He knows about 10 guys that have done this and fuel economy got better by 3-4lt per 100klm. However it took me about 10 exhaust shop phone calls before I found someone that would do it due to being illegal if it was removed. It goes in Friday so I will post a comment next week to let you guys know how it goes and fuel economy. Also I should add that I was told the DPF filter is approx $4500. If this is true I don’t know so don’t throw it out. However the Nissan service manager told me that they all will block up at some stage and need to be replaced. So I’m getting rid of mine. POSTED BY: MATT - BERRINBA - QLD - AUS 10 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Matt, I believe your fuel consumption will improve somewhat. However the Mitsubishi Pajero T/D auto (2008) also has a DPF but the fuel consumption is a lot better than the Navara D40 T/D auto. Therefore I don't believe the DPF is the sole problem. More likely the injection process and/or the ECM mapping is at fault (EGR, timing, injection)? Several sources in Nissan have informed me warranty will be Void if the DPF is removed. You could end up with a very twitchy/leaky **** valve if something else was to go wrong. Nissan's under the counter advice, should you take it, absolves them of their responsibility to fix the problem. Nissan (and other manufacturers) will soon be required to display the urban and extra urban fuel consumption figures. In some small way this may entice the manufacturers to keep their consumption figures honest. I look forward to viewing your results. Regards, Al POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 11 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Attention Matt (Berrinba, Qld) Can you let me know if by removing the DPF will my computer be affected in any way and if so please post me the fix, as I am keen to try this modification myself? Thanks, Gary (VIC) POSTED BY: GARY BRYAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 16 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== My STR 3litre has the same problem, power loss excessive fuel usage etc. The computer couldn’t pick up any problems. While I was adjusting the valves I snapped the boost sensor trying to get the vacuum line off luckily! Because I had to buy a new one, it was a faulty boost sensor there was no way I can think of pinpointing that. I’d looked every where and asked, no one could tell me any thing to help. Got another sensor from the wreckers for $80 because Nissan did not have one in Australia! So try replacing this, it was just lucky I accidentally snapped it. Boost Sensor. POSTED BY: SAM - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 17 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Mate I am getting it removed, should be this weekend I hope. Have been busy with other stuff. I will put a post up on here when done. Don’t throw the old one away just get a pipe up to replace the filter with all the sensor plugged back into new pipe. Beware that I have been to about 10 exhaust shops and only 1 wants to do the job. They say they don’t want to do it because it has to do with the emissions of the car and they are not allowed to do it. POSTED BY: MATT - BERRINBA, QLD - AUS 19 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Matt, You last stated you were removing the DPF on advice from a rep. Have you done it yet and how did it go? Did you receive any advice on resetting the injection process to prevent wasting fuel on the regeneration process? Regards, Al POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 29 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Gents, I have had similar issues with an Astra DPF. Have you considered this, can you buy the sensors separately from Nissan? If you can and they are reasonably priced get a length of exhaust pipe made up with fittings for the sensors and plug them in. I know this is a pain and you shouldn't have to do it etc etc, but consider how much better your fuel consumption is going to be and do your sums. On the matter of the computer doing a "burn". This will not happen if the DPF has been replaced with a piece of pipe and the sensors are in place. The front sensor reads exhaust pressure in front of the DPF and the back sensor reads the pressure from the back. When pressure at the front of the DPF reaches a certain point higher than that at the rear the computer does a "burn", this will not happen with a straight piece of pipe where the pressures are equal all the time. Hope this helps. Wiffco POSTED BY: WIFFCO - LILYDALE, VIC - AUS 1 APR 2009 |
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HOLDEN VIVA 2006: RE: OVERHEATING OF THE TRANSMISSION *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I had a similar problem with my 2006 Viva. Took a few visits to Holden before the problem was rectified. The engine would rev up and appear to drop into neutral. This could happen pretty much any time with no sort of trend to a particular driving condition. |
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| POSTED BY: GRAHAM - PERTH, WA - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN VIVA 2006: OVERHEATING OF THE TRANSMISSION - After traveling for a number of hours the car rapidly loses power the revs go really high and the car appears to lose power. Some one told me that they have heard that the Viva is known to have a transmission problem in that the car slips into neutral when the transmission gets hot. This only happens after travelling for 3 hours or so. The Holden dealer has checked the computer and can not find a problem. Some Advice or Help would be most appreciated." POSTED BY: JILL SHATTLES - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 10 MAR 2009 |
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FORD FALCON BF SR 2007: RE: MY FORD *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Leanne, I too have purchased a BF series2 SR Falcon, and from the first week of owing it experienced gear box issues. We drove to Queensland in December of 2008 and had on several occasions the kick back on passing selected 2nd gear at 100km with some pretty loud noises. I reported this to the dealer here in Melbourne and was told that they would re-set the software into learning mode which should fix the problem. This of course did not do anything and subsequently the gear changing became erratic from time to time. Quite harsh in the mornings. |
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| POSTED BY: DAVE CARKEEK - FRANKSTON, VIC - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON SR BF 2007: MY FORD - My problem is quite a simple one, yet none of the management team seems to be able to make a decision to resolve this issue. I purchased a new Ford SR BF on 5 March 2007 from Peter Warren Ford Warwick Farm Sydney. The vehicle was not in a fit or merchantable state to be sold to me, it has been back to service on at least 19 occasions, had a software program run through the gearbox, a new gearbox, a new K Bar, a new battery and various other replacements and services. The car was, at Ford's request, left for a whole week with Sinclair Ford, supposedly for engineers from Melbourne to come up and look at the car. The car has a problem with the gearbox still and the car has creaked since new. Ford have not, since new, been able to find or rectify the creaking problem, which becomes quite loud when it is raining and underneath the vehicle becomes wet. Margaret Horesh Customer Relations Centre Manager, was to contact me yesterday (30th Jan) with an offer to settle the matter Her offer made today (31st Jan) was to take the vehicle into service again so technical staff could look at it but I am sorry we have been there, done that! I do not consider this an offer at all but a “fob off” once again. My husband and I have not been unreasonable in requesting either a replacement vehicle, which we are prepared to pay a little extra towards or perhaps a demonstration vehicle with a few kilometres on it. At this stage we are not prepared to once again take the vehicle in to service. There is a point in time when enough is enough and I wonder how many more times the vehicle has to be "looked at" before someone can make a final decision. I am preparing to file an application with the Consumer, Trader and Tenancy Tribunal seeking an order for a replacement vehicle or a fair and equitable compensatory award. Ford buyer for 25 years but unfortunately no more! Leanne" POSTED BY: LEANNE AQUILINA - PENRITH, NSW - AUS 31 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Sorry to hear about the SR, I have a BA 03 Futura that has 110.000kms on the clock and has never had 1 problem. Have had this car from new and I'm very happy. POSTED BY: CRAIG - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 31 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Gees! What a small matter you have as a Ford lover my self. I would just take the car to a different Ford place. It seems that Ford customer service is ****. Gees that is with the same Ford dealer we have, yes you got to expect problems there is no such thing as a perfect car. But gees Ford you got to have better customer care or else no one will be buying a Ford any more. I know I have been in a similar story but not as bad. They just don’t Care. Ford grow up and get some **** and get this lady a new car! You now turned away a very good Ford customer. The cars aren’t a problem it is the **** service. Great Job! POSTED BY: CHRIS ANDERSON - QLD - AUS 31 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I sympathise with you Leanne. I purchased a brand new EL Fairmont in late 96 from Blacktown Ford. Used it for commuting to Gosford for six months, mostly motorway driving. At 38,000K I took it in for service at the Gosford dealer. Tyres were good, as were the front pads but, for some strange reason the front discs were past their wear limits and had to be replaced. Ford would not support warranty and said I had been using the brakes excessively to get the discs in that condition. I argued the good condition of the pads and tyres did not support their diagnosis and that it was probable that the discs were never hardened. I even demanded an old disc back for testing, but they refused and insisted I pay for the replacement disc and the labour. That was eleven years ago and I have kept well clear of Ford products ever since. They just don't deserve second chances with their attitude. I suggest you go for full compensation and then go buy a Toyota or a European car. Couldn't recommend any Aussie car at the moment. Bob POSTED BY: BOB BURNS - EAST GOSFORD, NSW - AUS 1 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Leanne. I do sympathise with your problem, but I'm afraid it will never be fixed unless they have the opportunity to do so. I do not doubt you have been inconvenienced over this issue (surely a loan car was supplied) but as you mentioned the dealer has contacted engineering in Melbourne, so they are obviously taking you quite seriously and not "fobbing you off". Going to a different dealer will only cause more grief as they will have to start the diagnosis process all over again without the full history of the problem. I also noticed in your post that you have not mentioned just what the transmission /gearbox /car is doing wrong (other than a creaking noise ... has the steering rack had the TSB performed on it? as this emits a loud creaking noise). Maybe the request made by Margaret Horesh Customer Relations Centre Manager may have been the first step to getting what you want. Dav... POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS 3 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Att Bob Burns You mention you would go and buy a European car. Shows how much you know about cars. European cars chew through brake rotors a lot quicker than any Ford or Holden ****. When you need to change them all the time it will cost you a small fortune. Stay with Jap cars. POSTED BY: ANDREW - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 4 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== You let them win. They just want to **** you off enough so you would give up. Yes I did too. I think many of us did. Ford's Customer Relations rang the other day to find out how I was going since I have had my car 2 years. When I started on about the many faults I have they didn't want to know about it. Told me to ring Customer relations and tell them about it. POSTED BY: RON HAY - BLUFF, QLD - AUS 8 OCT 2008 |
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TOYOTA RAV4 2001: RE: TRANSMISSION FAILS ON 6 YEAR OLD CAR *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Owner of a 2001 Rav Cruiser. Just experienced the same problem. 118000 km on the clock. Car serviced regularly but not by Toyota. The owner of the local dealership just got off the phone to me today and said, "Being an out of warranty claim Toyota don’t look favourably upon the fact that the car was not serviced by Toyota". Wish this had happened 2 months ago before I purchased another car from them. "Bugg**". |
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| POSTED BY: ROD RICHARDSON - COFFS HARBOUR, NSW - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "TOYOTA RAV4 2001: TRANSMISSION FAILS ON 6 YEAR OLD CAR - After 6 years, and 90,000 kilometres of having my 2001 RAV4 regularly serviced by the dealer at considerable expense, the ECU (transmission computer) has faulted and caused "transmission burning clutches and contaminating internals". The repair has been quoted at $7000.00. I would like to know if this is a problem others have encountered and to warn others considering a RAV4 of this possible issue. The car has only been driven on the road under normal conditions." POSTED BY: CORRINE MARSHALL - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 27 SEP 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Just went through exactly the same problem. Our repair bill was just under $8000. I have a five door 2002 RAV4 automatic cruiser. First the car was slipping in gears. It was not a gradual thing eihter ... it just suddenly failed. Upon inspection the clutches were burnt out. The gear box was repaired and it flamed another box. I had the computer checked by Toyota and an independent specialist and no fault codes etc. indicated a problem. In the end a new computer was put in, problem solved! Basically the ECU malfunctioned causing the gear box clutches to burn out. The ECU didn't even indicate any fault codes or go into the safe mode like they are suppose to. Gear box had to come out twice and so did the engine. I got a 24 month warranty on repairs ... make sure you do as well. Will be selling **** before that though! I was lucky that the workshop I go through is owned by a friend and was not charged for the engine coming out 2 and a half times. POSTED BY: SCOTT - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 24 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had the same problem. Cost of repairs 4500 to $6000. I have a RAV4 2002 114.000ks. It will take 2 weeks to repair then sell. POSTED BY: LEIGH - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 5 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2001 Rav4. I took my car to the dealer for the required maintenance as I always do. I asked them to check my transmission because my car was slipping into 2nd gear. I was told that I now need an ECU because the computer is not telling the car to change gears the way it is supposed to. I see that this is a common problem, I was quoted $1500.00 for the replacement. It sounds like I need to get rid of my car. POSTED BY: ADRIAN - GA, USA 20 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2002 Rav4. Same problem. The gearbox started slipping due to the computer failure, and I have been told the repair bill will be $6500. I am not sure what to do, as I will not be getting the money back when I try to sell the car. POSTED BY: PAUL GRUNDY - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 4 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, did you get the ECM/ECU recalibrated according to the TSB issued in March of 2006? POSTED BY: CHRIS - VANCOUVER, BC - CANADA 8 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Please contact me re 2002 Rav4 4 transmission problems. I am part of 23 people who have gotten replies from that are gathering information for a class action suit on this problem. POSTED BY: JOANNE MOORE - FRANKLIN, USA 31 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I would like to get more information about the class action suit. I am starting the debacle that I see is going to get very costly... POSTED BY: BEVERLY TOOKEY - CARY, NC - USA 15 APR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I bought my 2002 RAV4 in November of 2006. The check engine light stayed on constantly. I was told it was an O2 sensor and that it would take $300 to fix but that it did not affect the car's performance. In February I received a notice that I should take the vehicle to the dealer to have a recall taken care of, which I did. The check engine light went off but I started having transmission problems. I took it to the dealer and they charged me $150 to check it out. They said I needed a new computer ($1,300). I then took it to a transmission specialist to check out ($85.00). He said it was not my transmission but the computer (EMC). I started researching and found out about this problem being not just mine. Being a single mother with two children and on a very tight budget, this is my only transportation, which I do not consider safe until this gets fixed. I was having this shifting problem in a very busy intersection and was very upset with the fact that Toyota would not stand behind their product and fix the EMC at no cost to the consumer. POSTED BY: KRYSTIE DUNN - MOBILE, AL - USA 26 JUN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Having same problems - have to replace the computer in mine but will hold onto the bad one just in case Toyota ever decides to step up and back their product. Please let me know if anything develops. POSTED BY: JAMES THAMES - MARIETTA, GEORGIA - USA 30 JULY 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Me Too! Same thing just happened to our 2002 Rav4, 5 door. I got up one morning, started to drive to work and the gears started slipping. I took it Straight to the garage and they said the ECU needed replacing... $4000! This has to be some kind of design fault. We simply don't have the money to repair it! I can't tell you how angry I feel about this! POSTED BY: LYNN MORESI - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 1 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== If there is a law suit going on I would like to get the info on it. My Rav4 just started its trip downhill. POSTED BY: GSINGLE381 - MONTGOMERY, AL - USA 5 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just bought a 2001 Rav cruiser auto and the gears were also slipping. This is after 2 **** days of owning it. I took it back to car yard yesterday and it is at the mechanics now while I wait for an answer. I was issued a 3 month warranty but after reading all these comments I now feel like **** and can see it is obviously a common problem! I will keep you posted to see what it ends up being. It has really **** me off. POSTED BY: JODIE B - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 19 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== For those of you being quoted $7-$8k to repair the gearbox, you are being ripped off, get an exchange box." POSTED BY: ROBERT GREGSON - NOWRA, NSW, AUS 21 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2004/5 model Rav4 Cruiser, fully loaded. It has traveled 67,000 km. No problems so far. It is very reliable and quality can be felt when driven. I hope people with the same year model have not faced transmission problems. Seems that Toyota has rectified the problem. Any feedback on my model? POSTED BY: RONEEL KUMAR - PALMERSTON, ACT - AUS 21 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Toyota in Melbourne area has only 2 dealerships that service transmissions and they could not even look at my car for 3 weeks then it was going to take 6-8 weeks for them to repair, what a disappointment in Toyota. Luckily I found another transmission expert to fix it and had it back in a week! Saving thousands in rental car fees! If you have a 2001 RAV4 get it rid of it before this happens. By the way Toyota quoted me $6000.00 to fix it and I would be without the car for almost 3 months, what a deal! POSTED BY: DANA - PORT MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 22 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== TOYOTA RAV 4 2001 1007,000 KM. ECU - TRANSMISSION ISSUES - I have had the same issues with the ECU as you all manifesting with the transmission suddenly slipping, literally an overnight phenomenon. I had the car checked by usual mechanic whith handheld computer diagnostics, no fault codes; however symptoms still there so stopped driving the car and started to ring around to inform myself. The answers came back thick and fast, it was as if every one could diagnose the problem without even seeing the car. They literally told me what year and model car I had after briefly describing the problems. "Change the ECU ($1700- $2100) and if you are lucky that may fix the problem, if unlucky and you drove the car without noticing in time the transmission will need replacing ($3500 -7500)" was the standard reply. After reading all the posts on web about this and speaking to dozens of independent transmission workshop Experts & Mechanics, I have contacted NRMA, Dept of fair trading, and Channel Seven and Nine regarding doing a story on their "Current Affair", & "Today Tonight" programs as there are some massive safety issues related to this situation - my wife & two young children were nearly rammed by other vehicles several times at traffic lights because of transmission suddenly slipping, the media are interested in this ! I have several experts willing to go on record and speak about this issue. Let me know if you want to form a group to bring this issue into public awareness thus encouraging Toyota to take responsibility for their products and stop sweeping this under the carpet. After my local Toyota workshop replaced the ECU ($1682) the vehicle seemed Ok, but as the transmission will not show up any fault code if it is damaged only time will tell! Confidence in the brand Toyota is now at a very low point with me. Before paying my repair bill I contacted Toyota customer relations Sydney / Taren Point / Tel: 02 9710 3333 and made a serious complaint regarding this issue and informed them of my awareness of just how widespread this issue is and how the media is interested in doing a story on this matter (in 2006 these vehicles were recalled in the USA for software upgrade a free service). Anyway they spoke to the dealer, the dealer spoke to the warranty department and lo and behold they came to the party and reduced my repair bill by $800. This is a start however I am convinced that this should be a free recall service and if transmissions are damaged due to a faulty ECU that controls it the transmission is by definition Collateral Damage for which Toyota also should be responsible and prepared to assist their loyal (till now) customers. If you have your car repaired by Toyota you could try to call customer service prior to paying your bill and hopefully this way you too can at least save some money and collectively we will eventually encourage Toyota to adjust their denial strategy about this matter. Please raise awareness about this issue & tell everyone you know! POSTED BY: RICKY STRONG - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had a similar failure. Cost of repair still unknown. Is this just manifesting itself because of the age of the car and if so is this going to become a more frequent event I wonder. My local Toyota garage say that this failure is unknown by themselves and Toyota. In fact it is the first one. POSTED BY: MAURICE LUSCOMBE - READING, UNITED KINGDOM 8 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Well I got my car back after 2 weeks after a new computer was put in and a reconditioned gear box. I was so excited, but after another 2 days there was a sound like a helicopter blade going round and round in the 2 front tyres so once again back to the car yard to wait another 4 days and the wheel bearing needed replacing! I am totally over this piece of **** I have had my new car a total of 4 days out of 3 weeks and Toyota have A Lot to answer for I tell you! My local car yard have been fantastic but they have done what needed to be done no questions asked given me a loan car when by law they don’t have to. They are also out of pocket with this being that mine is still under warranty. I also thought of contacting Today Tonight or ACA over this. Some attention has to be brought to this serious Fault with this car! So fingers crossed I get this piece of **** back tomorrow! POSTED BY: JODIE B - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 9 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Me too. Exactly the same thing has just happened to my 2002 3 door Rav Cruiser at 65,000 K and I've been quoted $6000 for repairs to the transmission and ECU. It too has been regularly serviced and only driven on surfaced roads. As soon as I was told about it I googled the problem and found pages and pages of complaints in the USA as well as all the Australian ones here. I will approach Toyota Customer Service on Monday as a start, but clearly we can have more effect if we work together. I would like to be part of any campaign or group action to get Toyota to take some responsibility for this. I will post feedback on this site. POSTED BY: ANDREA STERN - COOGEE, NSW - AUS 12 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a question, is the shifting problem only in automatic 2002 Rav4 's or in the 5 speed manual too? Let me know thanks, Tasha POSTED BY: TASHA - PETERBOROUGH ONTARIO - CANADA 23 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Andrea I keep getting angrier and angrier each time I read this complaint forum! I can’t believe the exact same thing keeps happening with all of these cars. Clearly it is a major fault which the customer is paying for! Just wanted to know if you had any luck contacting Toyota? Cheers, Jodie POSTED BY: JODIE - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 12 NOV 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Is this only a problem with automatics? I'm considering buying a manual 2001 or 2000. But the one I was going to look at this weekend ia an auto. Will steer clear. I am assuming these are all auto's having this problem. Look forward to advice. POSTED BY: MICHELLE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 13 NOV 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had the same problem with my 2002 RAV4 98,000kms which I have had from new. Without any warning the auto transmission started jolting badly when put into reverse and then two days later the car was slipping gears when I was driving to work. I had it towed to my auto transmission specialist and he said this is a very common problem with the RAV4 at approx 100,000kms - he has just repaired 6 in the past few months. My ECU needs replacing and I won’t know until this is done as to whether I also will need to have the clutch replaced. Total cost $1,000 for the ECU and $2800 if it is the clutch. I hope this is the end of this! My car has always been serviced at Toyota and they never warned me about this problem. Not happy! POSTED BY: D BOYLE - CROYDON, VIC - AUS 21 JAN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I am interested in the class action suit against Toyota for the ECM problem on the RAV4. I have went through the same sort of headaches that others have mentioned on this thread. Thanks, POSTED BY: GEORGE BATES - SPARTA, NJ - USA 11 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hello everyone, I am concerned about our 2002 RAV4 automatic transmission. It has 112,000k on the clock and full service history no hard work, wife’s car bitumen roads only. I pulled the transmission dipstick to check it and discovered the transmission oil is burnt and smells as well. No apparent operational error in the drivability of the car as yet. What I have found is a technical service bulletin from overseas from Toyota, please read TC002-06 you can search for this on Google. For the factory to put out a bulletin there has to be serious issues with the transmission and therefore the potentially unsafe operation of the car in heavy traffic conditions. Please be wary of your gearboxes and treat it like gold very carefully! This bulletin was issued around March 2006 and it applies to all 2001 - 2003 Rav4 Autos and it also specifies that the electrics of the car are to blame i.e. the computer. Also specifies a warranty period of 96 months or 80,000 miles, that equals 96 months or 128,744km that’s very generous overseas. So where do we stand in Australia as our car is 78 months old and 112,000k? POSTED BY: GARRY - HOBART, TAS - AUS 15 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I have a similar tale with our 2002 Rav4 with 67000km on the clock. ECM went kaput damaging the auto trans and planetary gear set. Spoke with a guy at ‘customer experience centre’ on 1800 252 097 and oh what an experience! Certainly was not customer care. He, **** basically said if you had gone to a Toyota dealership they may have been able to help. It turned out it would have had to have been a particular type of dealer but hey I’m only an ex Toyota customer. So find out the hard way. Anyway after I mentioned the complaints websites here and America and the document TC 002-06 he suddenly knew enough to say the American model had totally different bits in yadda yadda but no problems were apparent in Australia! As I asked to speak with his boss he refused and said that he had complete authority in managing my customer expectations! So no joy there. I’ve contacted the state Toyota office and await their call back. It would seem that from the website there are sufficient complaints to have elicited some sort of company response to them because if America can issue some sort of remedy surely Australia could too? What has been your progress? I will keep you and the site up to date on mine. Cheers POSTED BY: DAVID - FREMANTLE, WA - AUS 20 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== You can add another unhappy RAV4 owner to your list. Transmission completely **** on 2001 5 door Cruiser, just over $100,000kms. Quoted $7000 to repair and Toyota dealership service department said it was a common problem in the RAV. For such a common problem, why is it so expensive to repair and why hasn’t Toyota been held accountable for this debacle? POSTED BY: AYLEE - BELGRAVE, VIC - AUS 12 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Add another 2002 Toyota Rav4 to the list of faulty/failing transmissions due to a bad ECU. This car is almost 7 years old, and Only has 81k on the odometer. Owned by the same person since new, always serviced by a Toyota technician (me), using genuine parts. It's disgusting really... having to gamble whether a new ECU may or may not fix the problem if found early enough. I've convinced the owner to stop driving it, and trade it in, preferably to a Toyota dealer. Let them deal with a possible $6000 repair. Sadly, they would probably wholesale the vehicle once they find the problem, and let some other sucker deal with it. When it comes to goodwill assistance, Toyota are pathetic! POSTED BY: JOE - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 15 MARCH 2009 ========== REPLY ========== 2002 Toyota Rav4 - 96,000 on the clock. Automatic transmission **** - Have lost first and fourth completely. I have been quoted minimum charge: $3,000 to fix... could be a lot more. It appears this is a common problem amongst the 2001 and 2002 RAV4. POSTED BY: SIMON H - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 24 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Rod, I have done a fair bit of research on this problem and despite my initial research and the evidence that it was a hardware fault in the ECM the local Toyota dealer did their standard tests and decided the fault was in the transmission because no fault codes were found. After discussions with automotive colleagues at local TAFE we did further research that identified that the problem is a tie up in the transmission caused by incorrect activation of the SL1 solenoid. Further research found information on testing the ECM signal to the SL1 solenoid (this controls the hydraulic pressure to engage direct clutch) and the resulting pressure. We have tested my RAV4s signal to the solenoid and have replicated the fault both times we tested the vehicle. The solenoid is a pulse width modulated solenoid that for correct clutch operation receives from the ecm a pulsed 12v signal at a 50% duty cycle this keeps the hydraulic pressure to the clutch exhausted and the clutch disengaged until the third and 4th (over drive) is selected. The ECM signal then drops to 0 volts closing the valve and pressurizing the clutch. The tie up occurs when the pulse width begins to drop below 50% and the pressure begins to build. At about 40% pulse width pressure is around 25psi and just enough to initiate engagement. At 25% pulse width pressure is 55psi and the clutch is fully engaged tying up the transmission. This is clearly seen in the video of the test. No fault codes are reported for this tie up because as far as we can determine in the diagnostics the selection of third when the transmission is supposed to be in first is not reported only 1-2. Another interesting point is that the fault generally occurs after the ECM reaches operation temp (around 28-35 degrees) so make sure the test runs for 45 to 60 minutes. Also as it seems from this test that it is an electronic component failure therefore the fault may exhibit some variations. For example in the first test we measured 55psi while in the second it reached 27psi. These tests were carried out at idle with no load on the drive. Continuous operation in this condition will eventually burn the direct clutch hence the reports of gearboxes being replaced as well as ecms. I have some video footage of the test and other information required to carry out this test. The tools required are simply a scope, pressure gauge and a hoist and takes about 15 minutes to setup so you can probably confirm it is the ECM within an hour. Despite the research and test results achieved Toyota gave me the runaround finally saying the vehicle needed to be sent to Terry Shields Toyota in Parramatta for transmission removal and assessment with no guarantee of warranty. I discussed this with the Terry Shields service manager who agreed that an ECM change would probably solve the problem if the transmission was not damaged. In view of this, Toyota’s attitude to the problem and a reluctance to have a dismantled vehicle in Sydney and a fight with Toyota about the cost of repairs and their share (where Toyota have come to the party in Australia it has only been for part payment). I found a Melbourne company Injectronics who repair ECMs. A quick call to them confirmed they had had some RAV4 ecms in for repair. So the ECM is out (5 min job) and off to Injectronics via their agent Repco. Turn around is a week and cost around $400. I will let you know how I go with the reinstallation and testing for transmission damage. Apparently the advantage of having your ECM repaired is there is no need to program the computer to the car (keys etc) nor relearn the settings for the transmission both of which require the services of the dealer. I am happy to share as much as I know about this problem and expose the slackness of Toyota in accepting they sold a vehicle with a faulty component and providing as much help in sorting out the fault. Regards, Cliff POSTED BY: CLIFF TROOD - TAREE, NSW - AUS 26 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== That is unbelievable Cliff. I've been following this story on this site for quite a while now, which appears to be a worldwide problem. In simple terms, these Rav4s have a fault in the computer that eventually ruins the transmission. Is that correct? Mark POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 27 APR 2009 |
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HOLDEN CREWMAN SS 2004: WHAT ABOUT THOSE SS CREWMANS *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
My SS Crewman I bought about three months ago. I have replaced front bearings, brakes squeal when applied also have a knocking noise from the rear. Not as much power as I thought, what a piece of ***. |
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| POSTED BY: WAYNE BURKE - KARIONG, NSW - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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NISSAN NAVARA 2008: RE: CLUTCH FAILURE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
G’day could you please give me info on what type of heavy duty clutch you used? What make etc, as my Navara STX has done 55 thou. After reading this complaints corner sounds like I’ve been lucky. Any info would be appreciated as I too tow a van of the same weight. Thanks for your time, Regards Troy. |
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| POSTED BY: TROY BARRETT - TOWNSVILLE, QLD - AUS, 31/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA 2008: CLUTCH FAILURE - I have recently posted a number of articles in reference to the clutch failures on my STX Diesel Manual Navara which we purchased in July last year. After the third clutch in 7000km was put in the vehicle in Jan failed, Nissan agreed to place a Non Genuine heavy duty clutch and flywheel in the vehicle. This has proven to be the solution. I have just towed my 2100kg caravan a distance of 2000km without any clutch problems at all. The original clutches were not capable of doing this at any distance. There is a definite problem with the D40 Navara clutch. Any one with a clutch problem should take it to your Nissan dealer and make a formal complaint and request a heavy duty clutch or your problem will not be solved. You also need to talk to Nissan through the complaints hotline and demand a heavy duty clutch. This car with the heavy duty clutch performs well up to expectations. It is a very good towing vehicle with plenty of torque, I also achieve 14.2L/100km towing our 2100kg van on country, hilly roads. I have my problem solved, good luck. P.S Thanks to Von Bibra Nissan Gold Coast for your service, without their assistance and support I don't think this result would have been achieved." POSTED BY: NEIL ZOSKY - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 14 MAR 2009 ========== RELATED POSTING ========== "Recently bought a STX D40, decided to fit a genuine Nissan canopy. After picking up the vehicle noticed a knock between the Cab and canopy when travelling of the slightest of bumps. This was inspected by the dealer and found to be that the canopy was hitting the cab. Dealer moved the canopy rearward away from cab, this solved the problem. However to eliminate this the canopy was moved so far rearward it did not seal over the tail gate. I decided to check the cause and after some measuring found the tray to be 15mm more to the left, or 7mm off centre at the rear of the vehicle. This was the cause of the canopy hitting the Cab. Nissan have advised that they can fix it by bending the (straight) chassis to make the tub fit square, I laughed very loud. This is not a chassis problem. I advise any one considering a genuine canopy check to see if the tub is square or you will have the same problem." POSTED BY: NEIL ZOSKY - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 25 AUG 2008 ========== RELATED POSTING ========== "This vehicle is noted in the specs as being able to tow 3000kg's. I am just about to have the second clutch replaced in it as it slips and vibrates when towing my caravan (2000kg). This vehicle has done less than 10000K, this vehicle is not capable of doing what the manufacture says. If the next clutch fails, (which expect will as they put the same in parts without changes) I think it is time for the office of fair trading to become involved. Does anybody have any info that that might help me or other owners in this position?" POSTED BY: NEIL ZOSKY - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 3 JAN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Troy Nissan sourced the clutch and placed it in, I believe they got it from a 4x4 specialist in Archerfield. If you ring any clutch specialist and tell them what vehicle it is for it will be OK. Ensure you get the full kit including flywheel. Yes you have been lucky. POSTED BY: NEIL - GOLD COAST, QLD - AUS 1 APR 2009 |
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PRESS-RELEASE VACC 2009: VACC: STAMP DUTY REBATE COULD REBOOT NEW CAR SALES *PRESS RELEASE* |
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ISSUE: |
VACC, the peak automotive industry body in Victoria, is calling on the State Government to cut the cost of stamp duty on new vehicles. |
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| POSTED BY: VICTORIAN AUTOMOTIVE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 31/03/2009 | ||
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LANDROVER DISCOVERY 3 TDS 2001: RE: S AND M LIGHT STAYING ON - DASHBOARD *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
The M and S lights are a common problem on the Discovery 2 and 3. It is caused by the water run off pipe from your air conditioner. |
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| POSTED BY: JACOB PARMAX - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 30/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "LANDROVER DISCOVERY 3 TD5 2001: S AND M LIGHT STAYING ON - DASHBOARD - S and M light staying on - dashboard - car seems to be taking off in 3rd gear." POSTED BY: KATHY MOLLINGER - BRISBANE , QLD - AUS 25 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Had same problem, replaced inhibitor switch $500, still the same. Had it checked by auto electrician, readout said short in solenoids. Took bottom oil pan off to see the solenoids. Didn't attempt to touch anything but found plug for solenoids. Came loose tighten plug still the same so I disconnect battery. Gave it 10 seconds and reconnected. That fixed the problem must have reset computer. Hope this helps. Plug is about 10" past the inhibitor switch towards the rear. POSTED BY: MAX - HERVEY BAY, QLD - AUS 21 SEP 2009 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA 2005: COIL PACK FOR 2005 ASTRA *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Has anyone else had problems with their coil pack in the 2005 Astra? Just had to replace mine at a cost of $620.00. Not covered by warranty. It is only 3 years old and had just been serviced under 3 weeks before. I see they recalled them in the UK and replaced all the 2001 models. Would love to hear of any else, as I hope to take this further. |
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| POSTED BY: ANNETTE THATCHER - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 30/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== A problem that has been reported before. Not that common but there has been a few. You can get a coil pack (plus freight) delivered to your door from the UK for A$220 - too late now... easy to fit - takes 20 minutes. Astra engines don't like constant hot weather - if you run your Astra on premium fuel it will operate a bit cooler. POSTED BY: CUSTER - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 1 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hello I've just been told I need to replace the ECU on my 2005 CD Astra. Emission light kept coming on and engine was running rough. I took it in the first time and all they did was re-set the computer and said there may've been water in the fuel. Their advice was to run the tank dry a couple of times and problem "should" go away. Well obviously it didn't and I took it back... $576.00 later (not covered under warranty). I have had Hyundai's in the past and will certainly be going back to them, nothing ever broke down! POSTED BY: SUSAN BRYAN - PERTH, WA - AUS 2 JUL 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi there, Sorry can't offer any advice but was wondering whether the ECU replacement fixed the problem. My Astra is doing the same thing with the Emissions light but also won’t start. It's been at a Holden dealership for the past two weeks as they've had no idea what the problem is. They now tell me I need a new ECU for $1300 and a new immobiliser for about $250. Please let me know if it worked. Cheers POSTED BY: BONNIE LYLE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 3 JUL 2009 |
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FORD FALCON BA 2004: RE: METALLIC RATTLE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
It will be the brake calipers, nearly all BA's had the rattle. They fixed it on the BF's doesn’t do any damage. If you’re worried about it swap the calipers to the BF ones. |
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| POSTED BY: BILL - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 30/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON BA 2004: METALLIC RATTLE - Under the front end of the BA Falcon there is a heavy rattling sound every time we go over a bump and it has progressively gotten worse. I have checked the front sway bar and it seems ok. Please can someone help as this is my wife’s car and I... well need I say more." POSTED BY: ARTHUR GEORGOPOULOS - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Have you checked the shocks? Make sure all bolts are tight. If you have no luck mate take it to a mechanic. Good luck POSTED BY: JOHN - LIVERPOOL - NSW - AUS 29 MAR 2009 |
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MITSUBISHI MAGNA TR 1993: RE: BLUE SMOKE CAUSED BY STEM SEALS. *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
One way would be to put thicker oil in your engine, but you have to be careful not to put too thick in or you could blow it up. |
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| POSTED BY: BRIAN - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 30/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "MITSUBISHI MAGNA TR 1993: BLUE SMOKE CAUSED BY STEM SEALS. HOW CAN I REDUCE IT WITHOUT REPAIRING/REPLACING? - Have the usual exhaust smoke from worn stem seals. None of the Stop smoke products seem to make a lot of difference. How do I effectively reduce the smoke without replacing the seals? Thanks." POSTED BY: PETER GOURLAY - HOBART, TAS - AUS 29 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Drain all the oil out and it won't smoke. POSTED BY: GAZZA - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 30 MAR 2009 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA TWINTOP 2007: HOLDEN ASTRA TWINTOP 2007 WHAT A LEMON! *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Has anybody else had problems with the fuel system on their Astra Twintop? I have had seven fuel pumps/regulators replaced in the last year and the problem still hasn’t been resolved. Just before it happens the car smells strongly of petrol and the service light is displayed then the car shuts down which is very frightening if you are on the highway or turning at a junction! |
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| POSTED BY: HELGA DAVEY - GOLDCOAST, QLD - AUS, 30/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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FORD FALCON BA/XT 2004: LOCKED OUT OF ENGINE ROOM *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
There has been a malfunction with bonnet opening mechanism. Will check it out when I get some daylight. Sounds like a common problem. |
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| POSTED BY: BRIAN JOHNSTON - SANCTUARY POINT, NSW - AUS, 30/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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SUBARU FORESTER 2006: RE: CITY SUBARU VICTORIA PARK - REFUSE TO HONOUR WARRANTY *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Swap the tyres to the back see if the sound has moved to the rear. There are brands that are noisy from new. Most used cars don’t cover tyres under warranty. Go to tyre shop Goodyear Bob Jane, see what they say. |
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| POSTED BY: JOHN - LIVERPOOL, NSW - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "SUBARU FORESTER 2006: CITY SUBARU VICTORIA PARK - REFUSE TO HONOUR WARRANTY - Feb 2009 I purchased a 2006 Forester from City Subaru, Victoria Park. A day after the purchase I realised that the there was a drumming noise coming from the Front wheels. I'm pretty sure that it’s the wheel bearings. Either way there is something wrong with the car. When I took I took the car back for a look, they told me that it was just "Tyre Noise". They refuse to look into the matter further. They handled the matter so slowly that it is just not worth my while to take another day off from work and spend a whole day waiting for them to lift a finger. My only recommendation to people is to avoid City Subaru, Vic Park. As there are few Subaru dealerships in Perth (WA), that would mean you would need to avoid Subarus altogether." POSTED BY: MICK J - PERTH, WA - AUS 28 MAR 2009 |
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NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX DUAL CAB 2006: RE: DUD OF THE YEAR , 06, 07, 08 *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Matt, |
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| POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD, AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== I have an auto T/D. It is only me driving to and from work 15klms down the highway no stop first exit and I’m there. No bulbar just me. However I went to Nissan today for a meeting with a warranty rep from Nissan who told me "under the table" the problem is the DPF filter and that I should remove it. He knows about 10 guys that have done this and fuel economy got better by 3-4lt per 100klm. However it took me about 10 exhaust shop phone calls before I found someone that would do it due to being illegal if it was removed. It goes in Friday so I will post a comment next week to let you guys know how it goes and fuel economy. Also I should add that I was told the DPF filter is approx $4500. If this is true I don’t know so don’t throw it out. However the Nissan service manager told me that they all will block up at some stage and need to be replaced. So I’m getting rid of mine. POSTED BY: MATT - BERRINBA, QLD - AUS 10 MAR 2009 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX DUAL CAB 2006: DUD OF THE YEAR , 06, 07, 08 - At first I was truly impressed with my new car back in march 06, that is until the problems began! Firstly this problem with the brakes is ridiculous, I’m on my third set of rotors at $800 a pop! And I don't feel that I’m heavy on the brakes at all. [B] Rear brake lines cracked and leaked onto hub assembly, i.e. the whole rear had to be removed and replaced, one and a half weeks off road. [C] Airbag recall yet airbag light still remains on, which would mean another day off! [D] Drivers seatbelt will not retract by itself, I have to feed it back myself. I have taken this back countless times but problem keeps reoccurring. [E] Driving to Melbourne 20th of December from Qld in 08, car goes into limp mode at Wangaratta. I thought the turbo had gone because there was a massive drop in torque! Fortunately made it to Lilydale and left it with a dealer there on the 23rd of December. On Monday I got in touch with them to see how it was going and they informed me the engine fuel supply pump had failed and the car was over the km's but within the three 3yrs and would not cover this! So I got in touch with the customer service complaints dept and they said they would look into it. After a lot of phone calls between Nissan the dealer and me on Tuesday the 6th of January 09 they decided they would not replace the part under warranty, even though knowingly this part is a defect. Nissan initially said they would replace the part and I would have to pay for the labour, which I’d agreed to. But late that Tuesday afternoon they rang me to let me know that it would all be on me and there would not be any goodwill gesture on there behalf. The result was $1500 out of pocket and the car returned on the 8th of January ready for my trip back home to Qld! Fortunatly I had a friend who lent me a car for my family and I to use over the Xmas break. Another issue Nissan would not help out with. [F] And finally that rattle at low engine speed is very distinctive and seems to be getting worse; it’s only a matter of time before my engine blows too! I have a diesel auto [what a Xmas break]! This case is currently with the office of fair trading." POSTED BY: NIGEL HUSSEY - BURPENGARY, QLD - AUS 10 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hey mate, I'm sorry to hear about all your dramas with your D40 Navara. I see your point with the rotor situation. They don't last as long as they should, I've replaced them at 35, 40, 45, 50, 55000km intervals on a variety of Navaras and Pathfinders. I've never heard of the brake lines cracking though, so that’s pretty unusual. The airbag recall that was carried out on your Navara would have been the recall which reprograms the airbag control unit. This should not have kept your airbag light on, so you should have your dealer check the Airbag Control Unit. It could be a voltage spike or short on a seatbelt stork or could be an airbag itself. I have heard of the YD25 diesels in the Navaras having a noisy timing chain, which required a new chain and sprockets as well as a Lot of labour. A very big and time consuming job. But after they were replaced, it rectified the problem.. I'm a Nissan mechanic by the way. If you have any more dramas, I'd love to hear about them just so I know what other Nissan owners around Oz are dealing with. Cheers mate, James POSTED BY: JAMES MERRITT - GLADSTONE, QLD - AUS 22 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Mate you are a Nissan mechanic, can you tell me why I am only getting 390 - 440 to a full tank of diesel. I fill it to the top and I can see the fuel, it is an auto T/D D40. I am trying to get Nissan to help out but they say no and will charge for labour as there are no fault codes. If you can help this would be great. POSTED BY: MATTHEW - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 27 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I can't give you an exact answer but I can help you work it out. What kind of accessories (bullbar, towbar, specially made tray, etc) do you have fitted? Weight in vehicle (toolboxes, etc)? How often do you have your vehicle serviced? Using the correct oil and service intervals are very important. Also basics like tyre pressures, using 2HIGH, auto/manual, driving conditions and style vary fuel consumption. How much fuel are you using per 100km? I worked out that you're using 18.18-20.51L per 100km with the figures you provided but are not as accurate as they're calculated with an 80L tank and the tank is never completely empty. Cheers mate... Look forward to hearing from you. James POSTED BY: JAMES MERRITT - GLADSTONE, QLD - AUS 28 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== 'And finally that rattle at low engine speed is very distinctive and seems to be getting worse' With regards to the above statement, I also have the same problem with my 2006 D40. Just got back from 7 days 4x4 trekking around Fraser Island. The noise gets considerably more distinct when the motor is under load - although this is Not always the case. I have 2 mates who also bought D40's of which one D40 is experiencing the exact symptoms. Caboolture Nissan dealer told him it was pipes rattling against the firewall. Exactly what pipes - brake, a/cond, fuel I'm not sure. The idea does sound plausible however. With regards to D40 clutches, mine hasn't missed a beat however, several people I know have had clutches fail anything from 20K to 40K. This is obviously a problem that Nissan are covering up. I drive my Navara hard and get approx 750 Klms between fills. Hope this helps. POSTED BY: PAUL MCDOUGALL - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 3 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, Do you have the manual diesel D40? I have the manual D40 Diesel and only get 580km until the light goes on i.e. aprox. 68L. I have not been in the 10's yet with this car. Thanks, Marco POSTED BY: MARCO TESMER - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 9 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Matt, I believe your fuel consumption will improve somewhat. However the Mitsubishi Pajero T/D auto (2008) also has a DPF but the fuel consumption is a lot better than the Navara D40 T/D auto. Therefore I don't believe the DPF is the sole problem. More likely the injection process and/or the ECM mapping is at fault (EGR, timing, injection)? Several sources in Nissan have informed me warranty will be Void if the DPF is removed. You could end up with a very twitchy/leaky **** valve if something else was to go wrong. Nissan's under the counter advice, should you take it, absolves them of their responsibility to fix the problem. Nissan (and other manufacturers) will soon be required to display the urban and extra urban fuel consumption figures. In some small way this may entice the manufacturers to keep their consumption figures honest. I look forward to viewing your results. Regards, Al" POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD, AUS 11 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Mate at the moment I have given up. The thing is made of cast and I don’t want to break the sensors coming out, plus no one wants to do it, all about legal mumbo jumbo and emissions... How did you go any luck on your end? Also got a price from Nissan direct for a DPF filter if I break it and it was 2735. However I have unplugged the sensors that go into the DPF and unbolted it, took it off for 200klms and got that dist from 1/4 of a tank. I did leave the elec air sensor plugged in before the DPF and all seemed ok. So I might try again soon but have just given up and accepted that it uses a **** load of fuel. POSTED BY: MATT - BERRINBA, QLD - AUS 31 MAR 2009 |
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MITSUBISHI MAGNA TR 1993: BLUE SMOKE CAUSED BY STEM SEALS. HOW CAN I REDUCE IT WITHOUT REPAIRING/REPLACING? *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Have the usual exhaust smoke from worn stem seals. None of the Stop smoke products seem to make a lot of difference. How do I effectively reduce the smoke without replacing the seals? Thanks. |
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| POSTED BY: PETER GOURLAY - HOBART, TAS - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Drain all the oil out and it won't smoke. POSTED BY: GAZZA - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 30 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== One way would be to put thicker oil in your engine, but you have to be careful not to put too thick in or you could blow it up. POSTED BY: BRIAN - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 30 MAR 2009 |
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FORD FALCON BA 2004: RE: METALLIC RATTLE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Have you checked the shocks? Make sure all bolts are tight. If you have no luck mate take it to a mechanic. |
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| POSTED BY: JOHN - LIVERPOOL, NSW - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON BA 2004: METALLIC RATTLE Under the front end of the BA Falcon there is a heavy rattling sound every time we go over a bump and it has progressively gotten worse. I have checked the front sway bar and it seems ok. Please can someone help as this is my wife’s car and I... well need I say more." POSTED BY: ARTHUR GEORGOPOULOS - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 MAR 2009 |
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HOLDEN JACKAROO 3.0L TURBO 2000: RE: STALLING AT LOW REVS BUT STARTS AGAIN STRAIGHT AWAY AND RUNS FINE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I too have a 2000 3.0L Turbo Jackeroo which is stalling at low revs and have also noticed that it stalls when oil pressure is extremely low. I have had the car for 3 years and only use Penrite 5w 50 diesel oil. I have had the wire harness to the injector rail changed and a new oil pressure sensor seal. |
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| POSTED BY: ALLAN GRIFFITHS - WINDSOR, NSW - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Good to know I am not on my own here. I too have a Jackaroo 2000 model that just will not start at all. I have had my car for 2 days in the past three months. A Holden dealer has another two of the same model at their work shop at the moment which will not start and they have no idea why. Oil pressure sensors, wiring lumes, injectors have all been replaced and now one motor is being rebuilt with not much success either. I have had the car for 18 months and it has already cost me over $5k in problems from a new turbo to a glow plug snapping to now not starting. 3 mechanics have tried with not much success. POSTED BY: BRETT ANDERSON - CRAIGIEBURN, VIC, AUS 14 JUL 2008 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN JACKAROO 2001: STALLING AT LOW REVS BUT STARTS AGAIN STRAIGHT AWAY AND RUNS FINE - My 01 Jackaroo diesel has over the last month or so cut out about 15 times. Seems to happen when I am coming to a intersection and the revs go down low but it never has cut out when not moving and at idle. Apart from this problem the car runs fine and always starts again straight away when the problem happens. The sump oil stays at the correct level and does not overfill as seem to be common things. Any advice would be very grateful. Regards Wayne" POSTED BY: WAYNE REED - BROKEN HILL, NSW - AUS 6 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Wayne, If you know a little about mechanics and/or cars go to Australian4WD Forum site which is excellent for information. Another alternative is to ring Lismore Diesel Service (haven't got ph no on me) ask for Gary or Arron Bryant. These guys know heaps especially Jackaroo diesel. Good luck POSTED BY: DAVID - SINGLETON, NSW - AUS 12 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== My Jackaroo has been experiencing exactly the same problems. Currently at local dealer who have diagnosed the problem as being a failed oil pressure sensor and associated wiring harness, which they have quoted me $1,500 to fix. It has already had 2 lots of injector seals, front engine rebuild and a new turbo. POSTED BY: SIMON - MILDURA, VIC - AUS 23 APR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Simon our Jackaroo is having the same problems as yours. I was just wondering if the oil pressure sensor fixed the problem? POSTED BY: MARK - MT WARRIGAL, NSW - AUS 2 JUN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Allan, is the Penrite 5W-50 oil you are using 100% fully synthetic? I have looked on the Penrite site and I can't find your oil. I did find however Penrite HPR Diesel 5 which is a 5W-40 fully synthetic and the Jackaroo is listed with this oil. The Jackaroo is very fussy about which oil you put in it. I've had two of them for 9 years and my personal experience has been use a 0W-30 Fully Synthetic and you won't have any problems that are oil related. No guarantee's you won't have other problems like injector seals or oil pressure sensors or looms etc etc etc. Good Luck, Wiffco POSTED BY: WIFFCO - LILYDALE, VIC - AUS 1 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Have you changed the battery recently or for any reason had the battery disconnected for more than a few minutes? The original problem of stalling at low revs (pulling up at lights, idling etc) is exactly the problem I had with my car. My car is a 94 Magna but as the problem was so similar I thought it worth mentioning. The problem is that the little computer that controls the engine idle is upset if battery power is disconnected for any reason. It can be reset very easily as I have seen mine reset by a mechanic. POSTED BY: ALAN WATSON - GALSTON, NSW - AUS 4 APR 2009 |
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TOYOTA HILUX 2005: RE: TOYOTA AIRBAGS WEAR *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I am another Toyota owner who has a clock spring issue and would be very interested how you go about getting it fixed for free. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Geoff |
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| POSTED BY: GEOFF GOODISSON - SUNBURY, VIC - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Hi Angie, I am the second owner of a 2005 Hilux. It has done 70,000 and I have just had the airbag clock spring repaired free of charge. Feel free to email me and I will give all details. POSTED BY: BILLY BRUIN - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 14 FEB 2009 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "TOYOTA HILUX SR5 2005: TOYOTA AIRBAGS WEAR - I recently had my Airbag Light come on and after taking it to a Toyota dealer, learnt that the Clock spring in the Steering wheel needed replacing. Talking to the service man, he informed me that this is a common fault in this model and he had another vehicle in that day, with the same problem. My car just ran out of warranty and I am the second owner, with 80,000km on the clock. This part is a moving part that on inspection had worn from one of the cogs. The Part has now been Modified to prevent this Wear for longer life! My point being that this cost me $850.00 to get this fixed and I am frustrated and disappointed that they would not recall this part, being a safety feature of the vehicle. The fact that changing the design to prevent this wear is a good enough reason." POSTED BY: ANGIE SMITH - REGIONAL, WA - AUS 23 JAN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Please email me with the details of your repair, telling me how you went about getting yours fixed for free! Thanks Billy. POSTED BY: ANGIE SMITH - KALGOOLIE, WA - AUS 15 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== G'day Billy, I have the same problem. How was it fixed & more importantly, how did you get it repaired for $0.00. Thanks POSTED BY: ANDREW - PENRITH, NSW - AUS 5 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== How did you convince Toyota to fix your airbag for free? I believe I need a new clock spring in mine which has less than 70,000 on it. POSTED BY: NAME NOT SUPPLIED - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 19 MAR 2009 |
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TOYOTA HILUX SR5 DUAL CAB DIESEL 2005: CLOCK SPRING *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
I have the same trouble as a lot of other people who own 2005 Hilux re clock spring. As yet I have not taken it further but will on Monday 30/3/09. If this is a fault then I'm not prepared to pay the $700.00 asked by Toyota. |
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| POSTED BY: GEOFF GOODISSON - SUNBURY, VIC - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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FORD FALCON BA XT 2003: RE: BONNET RELEASE CABLE WEAR - ANYONE ELSE? *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Just send your complaint to the head of Ford Australia with a floral arrangement, and include a tube of ky jell. Explain your problem and tell him to put ky on his foot so when he kicks the idiot up the **** he won’t lose his foot, but on a serious note the guy probably got a big bonus $$$ for making Ford the extra repair money. |
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| POSTED BY: RAY - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 29/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== "Have 2 BA’s, one 05 XR sedan and a XL ute. Both bonnet and fuse box assembly have been replaced. They should have done recalls, lubricating doesn’t work as it’s a design fault. We should send the bills to Ford Managing Director. Cheers, Robbo POSTED BY: ROBBO - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 27 MAR 2009 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON BA XT 2003: BONNET RELEASE CABLE WEAR - ANYONE ELSE? - On my 60,000km service visit recently (dealer), I was advised I'd have to take my Falcon (sedan) back to get the bonnet release cable replaced ($200 because it's out of warranty). Apparently the bonnet release cable clips onto the fuse box and flicks the fuse box when released, causing wear. Additionally, I was told they'd have to check the fuse box cover to see if it needed replacing (another $200!). Has anyone else had this problem? (I am going to get a second opinion from my trusty Kmart Auto people)." POSTED BY: A COIA - RINGWOOD, VIC - AUS 15 MAR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Common. Also, be careful. Don't open bonnet from outside car, I am told it might break cable mount to fuse box. If it breaks, you have to replace fuse box. POSTED BY: C WALLIS - GLADSTONE, QLD - AUS 16 MAR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Yes have had the same problem with the Bonnet catch. New Ford BA 2004 Falcon, unable to open bonnet because of broken bonnet catch. How can people keep their trust in Ford when they can't get the little things right! POSTED BY: LINDZ - WYNDHAM, WA - AUS 21 JUN 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have Falcon 2004 BA model ...and the very same problem. It cost close to $400 in total to fix. The problem was the Ford dealership broke this and did not tell me. The car was in for another unrelated problem so to my surprise when I needed to open the bonnet, I could not. Not only did Ford let down their valued customers by design fault, but in my case did not even tell me that they broke it. I would be willing to pay for it then (wear and tear after all), but after their cover-up they can fix it! POSTED BY: A HAMILTON - AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND 5 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== To minimize this problem: Lubricate bonnet catch and adjust travel for cable at catch also. Release lever should have minimal travel to operate easily and smoothly. This minimizes the load on the "plastic" lever mechanism and on the "plastic" fuse box. Remember whenever working with plastic particular care must be taken. Note ("plastic") that it is "plastic", like almost "all" manufacturers. Replacement cable has a modified mounting system which is compatible with original fuse box. Never had a modified one fail, or a correctly lubricated and adjusted one for that matter. I have also seen many Mercedes Benz ones fail, and they were metal! POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS 7 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== What about the fact that I was picking up my son from his school in the city, so parked up for the allowed 15 mins in the multistory car park. Came back and my battery was flat, I couldn't open the bonnet and then because it was a tight car park, someone ended up reversing into me scratching two panels! So, the faulty cable ended up causing me to join the NRMA ($300), repair to my paintwork ($500), new battery ($150) and now it looks like the cable repair will be $200 - $400. Of course the car park attendant also charged me $26 for being in the car park longer than my allowed 15 mins grace for picking up my son! All at 38 weeks pregnant with my 6 year old son in the car! Well I feel better for venting, but financially still worse off! POSTED BY: DEBORAH - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 25 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Have had the same problem with the bonnet catch, in my case it snapped off the fuse box... POSTED BY: JOHN GRUNDY - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 30 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have had something similar where I pulled so hard I broke the handle and a couple of little clips on the fuse block. I went to the Ford dealer who seemed quite familiar with the problem but no offer of replacement of warranty. I have had to buy a new hood release mechanism and will have to fit it. I have complained to Ford suggesting this is a design flaw but they have not responded. At least the new one looks like an improved model and designed the way it should have been in the first place. POSTED BY: TONY GOLDSWORTHY - YEPPOON, QLD - AUS 27 DEC 2008 |
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FORD FALCON BA 2004: METALLIC RATTLE *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Under the front end of the BA Falcon there is a heavy rattling sound every time we go over a bump and it has progressively gotten worse. I have checked the front sway bar and it seems ok. Please can someone help as this is my wife’s car and I... well need I say more. |
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| POSTED BY: ARTHUR GEORGOPOULOS - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 28/03/2009 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Have you checked the shocks? Make sure all bolts are tight. If you have no luck mate take it to a mechanic. Good luck POSTED BY: JOHN - LIVERPOOL - NSW - AUS 29 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== It will be the brake calipers, nearly all BA's had the rattle. They fixed it on the BF's doesn’t do any damage. If you’re worried about it swap the calipers to the BF ones. POSTED BY: BILL - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 30 MAR 2009 |
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