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HOLDEN 1 TONNER  1997:  RE: DIFF NOISE I THINK     *REPLY*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
DIFFERENTIAL

Holden 1 tonner, it will be the diff depends on the dealer, some will admit it is a problem. It is usually the side gear bearings they are too tight on the gear. Mine was a VY Series 2 thought they would have rectified the problem by now. The diffs are made in Thailand. I had two complete diffs hub to hub and one rebuild to fix the problem. The rebuild was done by transmission services at 120000ks and this sorted the problem.

POSTED BY: GREG CONWAY - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HOLDEN 1 TONNER 1997: DIFF NOISE I THINK - Hi All,

I have a 97 commodore ute automatic that when I drive I hear noises coming from the rear. I think it maybe the diff. When I slow down the noise is much louder. Can somebody offer advice, is it the diff or something else?"
POSTED BY: KON RELLIAS - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS 28 JAN 2008

MITSUBISHI MAGNA TR 1991:  CAR STOPS    *FEEDBACK WANTED*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
ELECTRICAL

Hi, bought this TR Magna Elite 2.6 Fuel injected car. Had 100,000 on the clock & has since done 17,000 since. Lately it has decided to stop for no reason, we wait a few minutes & the car re starts. I have changed the distributor, coil, power transistor, control relay, throttle position sensor and idle speed control motor. All seemed well & I thought it was fixed. It has run well for a couple of days and out of the blue it has just decided to stop again.

When it runs it goes like a dream, the computer doesn't indicate any problem (no check engine light) the air flow sensor seems OK. I don't think it’s the injection system (fuel) as the engine runs fine when it goes. I would appreciate any help as I'm running out of ideas.

POSTED BY: PAUL FINNERTY - SUMMER HILL, NSW - AUS, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
Could be faulty ECU.
POSTED BY: PHIL - NORTHLAND, NEW ZEALAND 2 JUN 2008

========== REPLY ==========
Your battery is ****. I had the same problem in my 2002 model.

Cheers, Jim
POSTED BY: JIM CHAPMAN - PERTH, WA - AUS 9 AUG 2008

========== REPLY ==========
Hi buddy, I have the same Magna and is doing the same! Spent a lot of time trying to get it working and would like to know if you have found out what is wrong?
POSTED BY: JAMIE - HOBART, TAS - AUS 20 AUG 2008

========== REPLY ==========
Hi Paul,

Had exactly the same problem with my Magna TR. Turned out to be the Computer located behind the kick panel at the passengers feet. I removed it, not much work in doing this and I replaced all the Electrolytic Capacitors, about 6 in all. You would need to have a technician do this. Once this was done there has not been another bit of trouble from it.

The Auto transmission computer will also cause gear change problems when the capacitors fail in it. It is a similar computer and is located right on the hump under the centre of the dash board, a little more difficult to remove. Have a technician change the capacitors in it to prevent troubles with the transmission.

The capacitors only cost a couple of dollars from Dick Smith but to do it you need the technician. Perhaps a TV tech will do it for you if you take it to him.

This will fix it.

Cheers Howard.
POSTED BY: HOWARD - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 29 AUG 2008

========== REPLY ==========
Hi, just thought I'd respond to this issue of Magna's cutting out. The most common cause for this I've found is the plug on the side of the distributor. The wires at the plug seem to wear out. If you want to check to see if it's the problem, just turn the car on, grab the wire on the plug (on the side of the distributor) and jiggle it.

I had this problem and installed a new plug which fixed it...

Hope this helps. Danny
POSTED BY: DANNY - GOWRIE, ACT - AUS 10 DEC 2008

HOLDEN ASTRA SRI TURBO 2004:   ASTRA MULTIPLE PARTS FAILURE    *COMPLAINT*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
COOLING SYSTEM

I bought my first new car in 2004 - Astra SRi Turbo. Initially it performed beautifully. I still love driving it. Just before 15000klm I took it to the dealer because a strange smell entered the cabin. The dealer couldn't smell it. It went back several more times but only me and anyone travelling with me could smell it. Then a bearing noise became slowly louder. Again the dealer couldn't hear it.

I took it back again when the grumbling was louder only to be told "Don't drive it!". At 15000klm it received water pump No. 2. At 35000, a repeat led to water pump No. 3. At 47000klm the battery died, taking the alternator with it. Enter alternator No. 2. At 50000klm it developed the burning smell again. Then it dropped onto 3 cylinders as soon as the temperature gauge moved off the cold. Back to the dealer.

Three days later they couldn't find anything wrong with it, so I collected it again. Next morning it dropped onto 3 again in an exact repeat. Back to the dealer. After a week without a courtesy car, they said to collect it. The ignition module/computer was replaced at a cost of over $700 (thank heavens for extended warranties).

I drove it home, or tried to. Seven kilometres later it dropped onto 3 cylinders. Back to the dealer. Another week later it was picked up running well with its new set of spark plugs - my suggestion from weeks ago having been ignored was now proved right.

It has now covered 57000klm and smells so bad that I have to drive with the windows down (winter!) so that it doesn't make me sick. The service personnel still can't smell it. That burning smell isn't all that stinks!

POSTED BY: ROBERT AVIS - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK

MITSUBISHI MAGNA  2003:  FOR OVER A YEAR NOW WE HAVE NO PETROL GAUGE, WHY SHOULD WE PAY     *FEEDBACK WANTED*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
FUEL SYSTEM

For over a year now we have no petrol gauge, why should we pay approx $400 to fix. I have never in my life come across a car that requires a new petrol gauge because on our car (a 2003 model) does not work. We need to find about $400 to fix the problem. I will never purchase a Mitsubishi … Again.

Rosie. Western Australia

POSTED BY: IAN PARNHAM - PERTH , WA, AUS, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY =========
I have the same problem with my 2002 model. It is a trait of the sender. You should not be asked to pay $400, in this is daylight robbery. Replace it your own it is not hard, just buy the new sender but tell Mitsubishi to get real on the cost as it only requires them to spend $15 on it due to where it is made!
POSTED BY: JIM CHAPMAN - PERTH, WA 9 AUG 2008

HONDA ACCORD EURO LUXURY 2003:  RE: TYRES WEAR ACCORD EURO     *REPLY*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
TYRES

I have a 2003 Accord Euro Luxury, it has done 74,000km and it is still on the original set of Michelin Pilot tyres. They do need replacing now.

POSTED BY: GEORGE ANTONIADES - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HONDA ACCORD EURO MANUAL 2005: TYRES WEAR ACCORD EURO - I have just put on my 3rd set of tyres in 60,000. My car is daily driven normal kilometres and not lowered. I told Honda who said that all Euros are doing the same. It’s not the tyre quality his excuse was that the handling for the car is very aggressive and tyre wear will suffer?

I have never heard of this."
POSTED BY: SCOTT FABRI - CAMPBELLTOWN, NSW, AUS 16 JAN 2008

========== REPLY ==========
I have so far done about 25k on the first set and look like getting about 35k to 40k out of these tyres. I run them 3-4 PSI higher than the recommended pressure. They are wearing evenly. What klm are you getting per set?
POSTED BY: GARRY BEROS, BRISBANE QLD 17/1/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Scott

I have seen this on the Accord before. What the person means by aggressive is aggressive wheel alignment angles - mainly camber which is great for handling and not so great for tyre wear/life. It is not only the Accord but a great deal of newer cars on the road today.

Tyres in set ups such as yours will wear on the inside of the tyre faster because of the influence of negative camber - so the outside of the tyre might still have 20,000 kms life and the inside is bald. If left unrotated the influence of negative camber can also cause heel and toe wear which will produce tyre noise.

The most important thing to remember is that tyre life can be greatly extended even in set ups such as yours by rotating your tyres every 5,000 km's, pressure checks at least every 3 weeks (Inflate to tyre placard pressure) and wheel alignment checks every 10,000 km's. Low profile tyres such as the tyres fitted to your vehicle are very sensitive to lack of tyre maintenance.
POSTED BY: NEIL - BRISBANE, QLD 17/1/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Increase your tyre pressures 3psi above the stated limit on your vehicles placard. This should reduce the bias to wear on the outside of the tyre.

Regards SM
POSTED BY: SM - BRISBANE, QLD 28/5/2008

NISSAN NAVARA D40 2007:  FRONT DISC ROTORS    *COMPLAINT*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
BRAKES

At 20,000 service told the discs and pads will not last until the 30,000k service. They will need to be done by 26,000 or the warranty will be void. The dealer said I am too hard on the brakes. I asked how come I got 112,000k out of the front discs on my Toyo 80 series. I think it is a bad batch of rotors not my driving style. Has anybody had this problem?

POSTED BY: GREG CONWAY - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
I have the 4x2 manual V6 and after 14k I could see there were issues with the cheap nasty factory rotors. I organised a complete change and now run DBA drilled and slotted rotors with Ceramic Pads made by Hawke in the US. Compfriction in NSW modified the pads to suit. Truck now stops better with zero black dust and so far showing no signs of ware. There are 2 of us in Canberra running same set up and a few others interstate with different pads and rotors.

There are a few of us Aus wide in a US forum called Clubfrontier.Org. Feel free to drop in and join us, its free, and we can try to help out with any issues you might have. Just in case you’re curious, the Navara is called a Frontier in Nth America. The D40 is produced and sold world wide.

Cheers
Paul
POSTED BY: PAUL HINCHY - CANBERRA, ACT - AUS 11/6/2008

========== REPLY ==========
I have a 2006 model D40 with 45000 and was told by dealer that I also need new rotors and pads. I couldn't believe it as I had only 1 set of rotors machined and 3 sets of pads on my 75 series Cruiser in 300,000 kms. I always carried a lot more weight in the Cruiser. I have a mate with an auto D40 with 65000kms and his brakes are still fine. Really hard to understand this but workshop manager in Cairns Nissan told me that the rotors wear quicker than the pads.
POSTED BY: DAVID MAYNARD - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS 29 AUG 2008

========== REPLY ==========
David,
I have the same issue with Nissan that rotors and pads need to be replaced at 44,000kms. I don't tow with the vehicle and a large % of travel is in country on flat roads so I don't know how they can call it excessive braking. Did you get any satisfaction from Nissan i.e. did they replace under warranty? I don't feel like forking out $700.00 every 45,000kms. My previous STR achieved 200,000kms before rotors needed to be replaced? Any advice would be appreciated

Ian
POSTED BY: IAN BUSSENSCHUTT - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 30 AUG 2008

LANDROVER DISCOVERY II TD5 2002:  RE: ABS MODULATOR FAILURE (ARE YOUR ABS/TC/HDC LIGHTS ON?)    *REPLY*

31/05/2008

ISSUE:
BRAKES

Same problems here. I bought a 2002 Landrover Disco II TD5 in 2007. I just had it in for the 120,000km service this month (May 2008) and asked the dealer about the problem. ABS sensors were replaced, but problem was back in a few days. I have been told that the ABS modulator needs to be replaced.

I did purchase an extended warranty on the vehicle, however, they will only pay R9,000 (about US$1,200) of the estimated R34,000 (US$4,500) bill to fix the problem. That leaves me with about R25,000 (US$3,500) to pay. I am now searching for a second-hand ABS modulator (which of course the dealer warns against). What are the chances a new "genuine" Landrover ABS modulator will be any more reliable than the original part used during the build?

I am wondering about the new Discovery 3 - are there any reports of bad ABS modulators in the latest model years, say 2006 - 2008?

I will gladly join in to force Landrover to do something about this problem!

POSTED BY: DAVID EDWARDS - CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA, 31/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
LANDROVER DISCOVERY 2 1999: ABS MODULATOR FAILURE (ARE YOUR ABS/TC/HDC LIGHTS ON?)
POSTED BY: ALISTER WRIGHT - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 11 AUG 2007

HOLDEN BARINA SRI 2004:  RE: STARTER MOTOR ISSUES, TRACTION CONTROL & CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS STAYING ON     *REPLY*

30/05/2008

ISSUE:
MANY PROBLEMS

Hi,

I have a Holden Barina 2004 SRi and had soooooo many problems. To name a few:

* Brake pedals fell off
* Gear stick just bubbled and peeled off
* Plastic mesh on front of car under bonnet comes off, now all my electrics are faulting (indicators, horn, locking system)
* Coolant leakage - don’t know why
* Water filter needing replacing (mechanic says suppose to last 160,000km my car is 80,000)
* Now hard to get into first and second

I hate Holden, cost me 21,000 for the car and never ending problems. Will never ever ever buy a Holden again!

POSTED BY: SARA  - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS, 30/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HOLDEN BARINA SRI 2001: STARTER MOTOR ISSUES, TRACTION CONTROL & CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS STAYING ON - I have a 2001 Holden Barina SRI bought new in Jan 2002. The starter motor went within a year and had to be replaced. I asked around and was told there was a "problem" with the starter motor component in my make of Barina which the Holden Dealership said they were unaware of. The starter motor went again in about Sept / Oct 07 and again had to be replaced - this time at my expense by my local garage who indicated that they were seeing a lot of issues with Holden Barina and starter motors?

Two weeks ago the 'search engine' and 'traction control' lights come on and stayed on. I took it to my local garage for a service and they were unable to fix the problem - telling me it was OK to drive the car and that the problem would "reset" itself.

I continued driving the car but experienced loss of power at times and the car felt like it was going to stall when driving at slow speeds. Today the car died and would not restart when we attempted to jump start it. The lights came on when the key was turned but there was absolutely no power so it had to be towed to the nearest Holden garage. I am assuming the issue is now electrical but would appreciate some feedback on what can be wrong?

Throughout the time I've had the car I have also had issues with the battery light coming on and staying on. I have mentioned this every time it has been serviced (by a Holden dealership) and they have not been able to tell me if anything is wrong or why it stays on.

My three key issues are therefore:

1) Current electrical problem? 'check engine' and 'traction control' light staying on
2) Two new starter motors in a brand new car that has only done 60,000 KM
3) Battery light staying on

If anyone has experienced similar problems or has some feedback on what's wrong I would appreciate it.

Thanks Tracey"
POSTED BY: TRACEY WILSON - PERTH, WA, AUS 11 MAY 2008

PRESS-RELEASE VACC  2008:  VACC BLUEPRINT FOR REDUCING PAIN AT THE PUMP    *PRESS RELEASE*

30/05/2008

ISSUE:
FUEL PRICE

The rampant rise in the cost of fuel affects all Australians, and yet, there seems to be little sign of any relief.

This week, both Federal Parties, Labor and Liberal, were divided on how best to tackle the issue.

“VACC is concerned that there are few answers coming from Canberra. Where then, motorists might ask, is a considered resolution going to come from?” VACC Executive Director, David Purchase, said.

“While VACC acknowledges that the prime reason for rampant pump prices is the rising cost of oil on world markets, there are certain obvious measures, which if taken immediately, would go some way to reducing costs for road-users,” he said.

VACC proposes the following:

Competition
The oil companies and their supermarket alliance partners have nearly total vertical control of the market, and their “comfortable oligopoly,” as the ACCC refers to it, must be broken.

Fair and equitable Terminal Gate Price (TGP)
Independent service stations cannot buy fuel at a fair competitive price at the Terminal Gate (TGP) and are thus held to ransom by a wholesale market almost wholly in the hands of the oil companies. A fair and equitable TGP must be available for all parties and its calculation must be based on the correct data. VACC seeks transparency in Terminal Gate pricing to ensure that the imported fuel cost from Singapore is based on 91 Octane and not, as VACC suspects, on 95 Octane.

Predatory pricing
VACC contends that oil companies, through their supermarket partners, are attempting to remove independent operators from the market through predatory pricing practices, to gain total market control. The ACCC must act to stop predatory pricing.

Shopper dockets
Supermarket shopper dockets are a con. Few motorists can now believe that they are not paying for the so-called ‘discount’ through the supermarket check-out. This con must be exposed by the media.

Axe the ‘tax-on-a-tax’
GST on the excise component of petrol is indefensible and counter to the former Howard and Costello Government’s pledge when it introduced the 10% ‘Goods and Services Tax’ in 2000. This tax-on-a-tax must be abolished which will save motorists nearly four cents a litre.

World parity pricing
VACC questions the relevance of world parity pricing in the current distorted world market where speculators are in large part responsible for the record barrel prices. It is time that world parity pricing was reviewed.

LPG
The $2000 vehicle rebate must be maintained until 2014 as planned. Australia’s local vehicle manufacturers would have a clear market advantage if LPG was designed to fit integrally into more of their locally produced models, and fitted at the production stage.

Scooters and motorbikes
The Victorian Government must introduce new road safety initiatives to make it safer for commuters to choose two-wheeled vehicles. To achieve this, VACC proposes a designated system of “Safe Routes” with safety boxes, access by scooter riders to particular identified bicycle lanes on some city arterials, boxed turns on certain busy intersections, and initiatives to improve road-sharing practices by drivers.

“VACC agrees with the Prime Minister’s assertion that there is “no silver bullet” to solve the high fuel prices. However, we can’t simply throw our hands up. Australians, Australian business, and the economy, relies very heavily on road transport. We must take some creative solutions if the price of fuel is not to cripple the country,” Mr Purchase said.

POSTED BY: VICTORIAN AUTOMOTIVE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 30/05/2008 

FORD FALCON BA2 UTE 0:  NOISY DIFF    *COMPLAINT*

30/05/2008

ISSUE:
DIFFERENTIAL

I have the common problem with the diff in my BA2 ute (just 73000 ks). Have reported to Ford since ute was 2 years old, they just keep fobbing me off. Would appreciate some advice from other Ford owners re this problem. I noted Mick from Brisbane says Ford will cover. How do we go about getting them to do this? They make us believe this is not an issue at all.

POSTED BY: IAN WATT - DENILIQUIN, NSW, AUS, 30/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
Ian , I have a 2002 BA wagon. I have had a lot of issues, brakes power steering and diff. Difference being I had them all done under warranty no problems. I went to ask them about a funny noise in the front rh wheel and they diagnosed wheel bearing and also asked me about the diff noise. Didn’t know what he was talking about but I left my car there for two days and a new diff from Melbourne was bought in and new wheel bearing replaced, under warranty. They told me the factory that supplies the diffs had been over torquing the components leading to premature failure. Apparently was quite common to them and said it was station wagons and 1 tonne tray backs BAs

All the time I have had servicing done under warranty they have upgraded my brakes and rotors to later model, fixed the bonnet catch and generally been good to deal with.
POSTED BY: ALLAN SHOESMITH - NEWCASTLE, NSW 14/6/2008

CARAVANS MILLARD SUNSEEKA 2008:  COPY OF LETTER OF COMPLAINT TO MILLARD CARAVAN 24-5-08 WARRANTY CONDITIONS    *COMPLAINT*

29/05/2008

ISSUE:
WARRANTY

Millard Caravans Pty Ltd

I am writing to voice my concerns on a letter I have just received from Premium Warranties Australia Pty Ltd. highlighting warranty conditions on my new caravan. The tone of the letter was to say the least threatening and intimidating.

I have just purchased a SunSeeka Caravan from your company for about $32000
cash. Which I might add I had to wait for more than 6months.

This company that is underwriting your Warranty commitments cannot be serious with their conditions if I had known this prior to purchase there would not have been a purchase I guess it’s a case of buyer beware.

The expectancy or the aim of this company and Millard is to have people void their warranty because who wants to pay up to $300.00 for a service at 3 months then every 9 months after. This means to ensure the warranty is not voided for your so called 5 year Warranty will cost me about $2100.00, that’s pretty dear insurance. 5 year warranty what a joke, I wonder if I have that advertisement (replaced by my own) taken off the side of the van whether that would also void the warranty. Perhaps what is wanted by Millard is to scare people away from warranty claims so that they pay for their own repairs for any possible poor workmanship or faulty materials.

In the most part the service on a caravan only takes 30min. because how long does it take to check the materials that are covered by warranty i.e. chassis, frame and lights. I noticed your warranty doesn’t even cover the electric braked axle and that of course doesn’t fall in line with your schedule of services as it has to be serviced every 10000kms or 12months.

The rest of the stuff in the van is not covered by your warranty as each bit of equipment has its own warranty, not requiring ridiculous servicing schedules as does your bit of cover.

I know you have no control on dealer pricing but how can those sort of prices be justified for a service particularly when very little or nothing is done. What really needs to be done on a new van? I resent being forced into getting these services as it amounts to little more than Blackmail.

You realise of course that most caravan dealers/repairers if they in fact have a regular servicing schedule stipulate 10000kms or 12months.

FYI the Millard approved repairers are not aware of the nil kilometre or 9mth service schedules set down by your underwriters and in my warranty book. They are still working to your latest warranty books. I saw it when I had my first 3monthly service on my van today. Will this be a nice surprise for your customers when they want some warranty work done to find their warranty is void because they serviced their vans at 12months and not 9 months?

POSTED BY: NICK  SPELZ - MCGRATHS HILL, NSW, AUS, 29/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK

HONDA ACCORD EURO 2005:  RE: TYRES WEAR ACCORD EURO     *REPLY*

28/05/2008

ISSUE:
TYRES

Increase your tyre pressures 3psi above the stated limit on your vehicles placard. This should reduce the bias to wear on the outside of the tyre.

Regards SM

POSTED BY: S M - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 28/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HONDA ACCORD EURO MANUAL 2005: TYRES WEAR ACCORD EURO - I have just put on my 3rd set of tyres in 60,000. My car is daily driven normal kilometres and not lowered. I told Honda who said that all Euros are doing the same. It’s not the tyre quality his excuse was that the handling for the car is very aggressive and tyre wear will suffer?

I have never heard of this."
POSTED BY: SCOTT FABRI - CAMPBELLTOWN, NSW, AUS 16 JAN 2008

========== REPLY ==========
I have so far done about 25k on the first set and look like getting about 35k to 40k out of these tyres. I run them 3-4 PSI higher than the recommended pressure. They are wearing evenly. What klm are you getting per set?
POSTED BY: GARRY BEROS, BRISBANE QLD 17/1/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Scott

I have seen this on the Accord before. What the person means by aggressive is aggressive wheel alignment angles - mainly camber which is great for handling and not so great for tyre wear/life. It is not only the Accord but a great deal of newer cars on the road today.

Tyres in set ups such as yours will wear on the inside of the tyre faster because of the influence of negative camber - so the outside of the tyre might still have 20,000 kms life and the inside is bald. If left unrotated the influence of negative camber can also cause heel and toe wear which will produce tyre noise.

The most important thing to remember is that tyre life can be greatly extended even in set ups such as yours by rotating your tyres every 5,000 km's, pressure checks at least every 3 weeks (Inflate to tyre placard pressure) and wheel alignment checks every 10,000 km's. Low profile tyres such as the tyres fitted to your vehicle are very sensitive to lack of tyre maintenance.
POSTED BY: NEIL - BRISBANE, QLD 17/1/2008

========== REPLY ==========
I have a 2003 Accord Euro Luxury, it has done 74,000km and it is still on the original set of Michelin Pilot tyres. They do need replacing now.
POSTED BY: GEORGE ANTONIADES - MELBOURNE, VIC 31/5/2008

HOLDEN ASTRA TWIN TOP 2007:  RE: THIS CAR IS A LEMON     *REPLY*

28/05/2008

ISSUE:
RELIABILITY

The Astra Twin Top 2007 is a joke. This is the third time that the roof has jammed and has locked my boot with a 4 cm gap. I have continuous noises while I drive it as a coupe and it lasts only a few days (after a service) before the problem reoccurs. Also, servicing is nearly impossible as close to none of the Holden Dealers have been accredited to touch the roof.

If Holden/Opel are going to borrow hard-top technology from Mercedes, all I can say is that they should learn how to use it! Other than that it’s a great car.

POSTED BY: EVATT   - , AUS, 28/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HOLDEN ASTRA CONVERTIBLE 2007: THIS CAR IS A LEMON - The roof got stuck halfway between on and off. Stuck at a shopping centre with every other **** staring. Got that problem fixed, then discovered the indicator only goes on for 3 sec if you press it lightly and indefinitely if you press it hard. When correcting it from left to neutral it always goes to the right. This leads to all sorts of problems, many people beeping and accidents almost caused as a result.

There are some niggling vibrations in the back seat. I can't even be bothered getting it checked again ... gonna sell this piece of **** and tell everyone not to buy it."
POSTED BY: LINDSAY HOCKING - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS 30/11/2007

========== REPLY ==========
I also have the 2007 Astra Twin Top & my roof is also playing up. They fixed it claiming it was a crimped wire & re-attached the part that fell off, then 2 days later played up again & a few days after the same bit fell off as well. This is my replacement vehicle after my Astra Soft top was taken off the road after 38K of warranty repairs on it & had to borrow more money to get this model. But it looks like nothing has changed with the Astra's, just the body shape.

I also have strange noises with mine as well & stereo has played up & occasionally it idles really rough. And the keyless entry does not work all the time. I know of another owner in Brisbane who has had hers towed away 3 times.

Like you I am going to sell mine as well & Never Buy Another Holden Again. But it seems anyone who buys a new Holden these days makes it their last one ever. Holden need to get there act together & stop dumping cheap European imports on us because we don't have any Lemon Laws & they are too big for anyone to be able to take on.
POSTED BY: MICHELLE - BRISBANE, QLD 30/11/2007

========== REPLY ==========
I have had my Twin Top for 12 weeks and now the roof has died. It cannot be used at all. The car goes in on Monday to get the roof fixed and also the car will not idle causing it to shake all over when stopped at traffic lights.

Do Not Buy Astra Twin Top It Is A Huge Lemon!
POSTED BY: ANDREW CABEL - GOLD COAST, QLD, AUS 1/12/2007

========== REPLY ==========
My Twin Top also idles rough which causes it to shake. I have to book min in again to get the roof fixed, I thought it had finally died yesterday, but managed to get it going. It seems that the Twin Top is going to be a bigger Lemon than the Soft Top. We should all get together since we are all in QLD & go to ACA about these models. So we can warn everyone else.
Dont Buy Holden.
POSTED BY: MICHELLE - BRISBANE, QLD 3/12/2007

HONDA CR-V  2003:  STEER CLEAR OF CRV'S IN THE 2002-2005 YEAR RANGE - TROUBLE!    *COMPLAINT*

28/05/2008

ISSUE:
AIR CONDITIONER

Was making my 60th and final payment on my 2003 CRV as it had 69K miles on it and the AC blew - not just a compressor, but the entire AC unit shredded. Original quote from my dealer (where I bought it and serviced it exclusively) was $2800. Was lucky enough to research a little before making any decisions and called Honda for "goodwill" support. Long story short is I got to pay $700 in labor for this repair, which leaves me ready to leave Honda/Acura as a loyal customer.

I have always owned them for the reliability factor, and to have a Complete AC failure on a 5 year old car is unacceptable. It is obvious that there should have been a recall here with all of the blogs I've seen on the internet with the same problem. Even had guys at the dealership say they have seen Plenty of these come thru there.

I wrote a letter to Honda after I picked up my repaired CRV and voiced discontent and concern and was finally told 2 weeks later that there was nothing more Honda would do and that they showed plenty of good will since my car was out of warranty. I can't believe I had to shell out $700 for a repair that is obviously a mechanical / manufacturer problem. I have never even heard of any car having a complete AC blow up on them.

So, Buyer Beware if you are looking into the Honda CRV.

POSTED BY: KEVIN DAVIS - LAWRENCEVILLE, USA, 28/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK

WARNING SCAM  2008:  EXAMPLE OF INTERNET SCAM     *PRESS RELEASE*

28/05/2008

ISSUE:
ONLINE BUYING/SELLING

COPY OF EMAIL RESPONSE TO A GENUINE AD:

------------------------------------------------------
Hi,
My name is arthur bills, I am representing my customer in the
purchase of
your boat for sale and we will like you to state your bottom
price,
if you
are
having a registration, send recent pics, reason for selling the
boat.
What
is
the present condition presently. Get back with all these details
if
it is still
available for sale.

arthur_bills143@yahoo.com
------------------------------------------------------

POSTED BY: COMPLAINTS CORNER - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 28/05/2008 

HONDA ACCORD  1997:  RE: JUST NICE CARS - UNCONSCIONABLE PRACTICES     *REPLY*

27/05/2008

ISSUE:
DEALER - USED CAR

I stand by my original post.

Dealing with this company was like the Monty Python "Dead Parrot" sketch.

Let’s review some of the salient points here:

1. The gearbox fault was a problem predominantly with second gear which would cause the vehicle shudder badly, particularly on shifting down gear i.e. driving up a hill. The RACQ inspector and representatives of Honda Australia advised me that the gearbox fault would lead to a catastrophic failure of the gearbox i.e. the car would not be drivable. These and other experts advised me to stay clear of the sale unless Just Nice Cars were willing to fix the problem.

2. The sales people promised to fix the gearbox. They advised me that writing the defect on the contract was for their records and to cover us so that they couldn't deny the existence of the fault (which up until then they were trying to do). They also advised me to make a claim for the gearbox repair, under the statutory warranty after the car is purchased.

If this was not the case as Martin alludes then Why Why Why Would I Knowingly Buy A Car With A Dodgy Gearbox?

3. The 5 year warranty offered (with more clauses than Santa’s family photos) with the car was worth in the order of $1000 dollars in the event of a catastrophic failure. The cheapest replacement gearbox I could price was around $4500 dollars.

4. It's amazing how much "good faith" is suddenly generated the dept of fair trading is mentioned.

On a final note: Martin Coulson was never present during any conversation with his sales staff either before or during purchase and is only able to rely to the version of event as told by his sales staff; whom I would suggest realised they'd promised too much and subsequently changed their story to stay in favour with the boss.

POSTED BY: SHANNON BUTLER - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 27/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HONDA ACCORD SERIES 6 1997: JUST NICE CARS - UNCONSCIONABLE PRACTICES - In April this year my wife and I purchased a 1997 Honda Accord from JUST NICE CARS in Marooka, Brisbane. On the pre-purchase inspection a fault was discovered in the automatic gearbox. Two sales people acting on behalf of the owner of JUST NICE CARS assured us several times over a lengthy discussion that the transmission problem would be fixed under the statutory warranty. They also noted on the contract that there was a problem with the transmission and at the time we were told that this was for both ours and their records so that the matter could be dealt with quickly.

On purchasing the car I had it inspected by a Honda dealer who confirmed the existence of a major fault in the transmission. I promptly informed JUST NICE CARS with a warranty claim and a few hours later I received a call from the owner of JUST NICE CARS informing me that he will not fix the transmission. The reason given was that the problem was known by us when we bought the car and cited the note written on the contract as evidence. When I explained the assurance given to us by the dealer’s sales people I was promptly called liar and accused of trying to commit a fraudulent act. It may come as no surprise to find that used car dealerships lie to customers but I believe that the actions of JUST NICE CARS were particularly unconscionable."
POSTED BY: SHANNON BUTLER - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 14 APR 2007

========== REPLY ==========
I am the dealer principal of Just Nice Cars & it’s a pity that the owner of this vehicle was not able to update this site with the solution they received. The original issue was diagnosed by a pre-purchase RACQ inspection as a slight hesitation between 2nd & 3rd gear in the transmission. It was then discussed between the customer & my sales staff that we would not fix the hesitation as it was very minor & caused no problems with the way the car operated or drove. It was simply some wear to a 10 year old car that had done 155000 klm.

We wrote the hesitation on the contract so that there was no confusion to either party that it was not going to be fixed. This did not state we were going to fix the hesitation. It stated we are all aware of the hesitation & that’s the way we are selling it. It was also discussed with the customer because all of our cars come with a Free 5 Year Warranty, if the transmission failed it would be covered for the 5 years.

At that time the customer was happy to go ahead with the purchase. Approximately 2 weeks after delivery we received a claim under statutory warranty to fix the hesitation. After a few phone discussions with the customer & my sales staff as to why there was some confusion on the issue I decided to go ahead and fixed the transmission at no cost to the customer. That was called "good faith" to our customer. It’s a pity they didn’t have any good faith & post the fix they received.

They also didn’t mention the door light which we did promise at the time of purchase. We had to wait for this item to come from Japan & sent it to the customer when it arrived 6 weeks after the customer purchased the vehicle.
POSTED BY: MARTIN COULSON - MOOROOKA, QLD, AUS 25 MAY 2008

WARNING SCAM  2008:  EXAMPLES OF INTERNET SCAM     *PRESS RELEASE*

27/05/2008

ISSUE:
ONLINE BUYING/SELLING

COPY OF EMAIL RESPONSE TO A GENUINE AD:

------------------------------------------------------
DEAR SIR,

WE ARE FULLY REGISTERED INDIGENOUS CONSTRUCTION COMPANY IN OPERATION WITH OUR HEAD OFFICE IN THE FEDERAL CAPITAL TERRITORY, ABUJA.
OUR SOUTH EAST OFFICES ARE IN ABA AND ENUGU.

THERE IS TREMENDOUS POTENTIALS IN CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT LEASING IN NIGERIA, ESPECIALLY IN THE FCT, ABUJA WHICH IS FAST DEVELOPING.
THESE POTENTIALS NEED BE EXPLORED AND EXPLOITED, IN VIEW OF WHICH WE DESIROUS OF DIVERSIFYING INTO CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT LEASING MOST LUCRATIVE ARE;
EARTH MOVING,GRADERS, TRACTORS, LOADERS/DOZERS, COMPACTORS,/ROLLERS ETC, ASPHALT PAVERS, CRANES AND TIPPING TRUCKS.
CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT LEASING IS CAPITAL INTENSIVE BUT RETURNS HERE ARE VERY HIGH WITH HIGH TURNOVER.
THIS IS BEING ENJOYED BY THE JUST FEW COMPANIES ALREADY IN THE BUSINESS.

WE HAVE VAST EXPERIENCE IN THE INDUSTRY AND VERY GOOD KNOWLEDGE OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND BUSINESS LEGISLATION'S IN THE COUNTRY. ALSO, WE HAVE WELL SEASONED OPERATORS IN OUR BOOK FOR ENGAGEMENT ON DEMAND.
CONSTRUCTION ACTIVITIES ARE ON THE INCREASE HERE WITH CORRESPONDING INFLUX ON COMPANIES INTO THE INDUSTRY BUT WITHOUT THE CAPITAL FOR EQUIPMENT ACQUISITION.
THIS GROUP WILL ALWAYS PATRONIZE EQUIPMENT LEASING COMPANIES.

SEQUEL. TO THE FORGOING, WE NEED CAPABLE INDIVIDUAL OR CORPORATE/ EXPATRIATE FIRM[S] TO PARTNER WITH FOR MUTUAL BENEFITS, HENCE THIS INVITATION.

WE SOLICIT FOR YOUR EARLY RESPONSE, SO WE CAN COMMENCE NEGOTIATIONS AND FORMALIZATIONS.
THANK YOU.

YOURS FAITHFULLY,
ENGR.IFEATU REGGAE ORAH.[MD/C.E.O]

O 'REGGAE_SERIE NIG.LTD.
PENT HOUSE A, BANE PLAZA VINA,
P O BOX 8752 WUSE, ABUJA, NIGETRIA.
+234 8037742581
------------------------------------------------------

COPY OF EMAIL RESPONSE TO A GENUINE AD:

------------------------------------------------------
Hello,
How are you doing today? and is you weekend doing ? hope fine.I saw your item for sale and My client is very interested in this item .please get back to me asap, i have done through the details on the site, sound great to my client.Get back to me with the full details of the item .so that i can instruct my client to arrange for the payment. As a matter of urgency,please get back to me right away.
Thanks and have a nice day

Regards,

Mr TAmmy Cox
NTG House, Willow Road,
Lenton, Nottingham. NG7 2TA. ENGLAND
Tel: +447024076987
tammicoxx@aol.com
------------------------------------------------------

POSTED BY: COMPLAINTS CORNER - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 27/05/2008 

HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2002:  RE: ASTRA IGNITION LOCK     *REPLY*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
IGNITION

Hi, Steve I had the same problem on the weekend, did you get an answer?

Cheers

POSTED BY: LINDSEY  - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
"HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2002: ASTRA IGNITION LOCK - Unable to remove the ignition.

I have got stuck on "Step 5". Seems that a black casing around the ignition might be preventing me from removing the ignition. Would this be the case or am I just doing it wrong?"
POSTED BY: STEVE ARUNDELL - OXLEY, ACT, AUS 17 JAN 2008 PROVIDE FEEDBACK

========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2000: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST! - I have a TS 2000 Astra and the key kept getting jammed. It won’t turn. It happened about two years ago and cost $300 from memory. I have searched /googled every site in the world or so it seems on this problem. Seems there are Many Astra owners with this problem.

Today - fixed it ... and it didn’t cost a penny.

Step 1. Pop off the front top cover immediately behind the steering wheel. The one which the indicator and wipers stalks go through.

Step 2. Get a star (like an allen key) key and undo one screw from underneath, and two on the top sides (Revealed after step 1).

Step 3. Depress the latch on the side of the wiper stalk assy and slide out the whole assy from the slot, towards you.

Step 4. Get a small nail or very small screw driver and poke it into the small hole revealed by removing the wiper assy.

Step 5. Put your key into the gin and while holding the nail in the small hole (pressing inwards) pull the whole barrel assy out. Easy! (There's a small spring loaded 'catch' on the barrel which locks it inside the steering column.

Step 6. Look at the opp end of the barrel to the key and see a small pin which rotates when the key is turned. The last position of this pin, when you remove the key from the barrel is where the problem lies. There's a small 'ramp' inside the barrel which you can see. It will be burred and pitted from use. (and a 'sharp' end on the pin. Steel pin and soft metal barrel)

Step 7. Use a small file to smooth the metal ramp.

Step 8. Rotate the key all the way "on". Depress the Pin in slightly (against a spring) so you can rotate the barrel to the end and the pin will pop out. (Don’t Lose It, or the small spring inside the hole the pin came out of!)

Step 9. File the fat end of the pin to look rounded, not flat. This makes it easier to ride up the ramp and prevent damaging the *hit metal ramp again.

Step 10 Reinstall the pin and rotate the key so the pin can’t fly out.

Step 11. Put a small amt of grease on the pin and work with the key backwards and forwards to ensure it is working OK.

Step 12. Hold the spring catch (Step 5) down with a small screwdriver and reinsert the barrel. It can only go back in One Way! Trail and error will find it!

Step 13. Reverse assemble the stalks, covers etc.

Saved around $140 in parts.

Good luck "
POSTED BY: ROB ADAMS - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 3/12/2007

FORD FALCON BA 2004:  RE: NOISY DIFF     *REPLY*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
DIFFERENTIAL

I drive a BF Falcon wagon for work, usually carries some tools but no excessive weight. I’ve had this car since October 06 and I’ve done 128thou kays (~250 a day drive) of normal driving. Yesterday the diff gave way after little warning, well rather the rear end locked up at 70kph and sent me spinning into the other lane, luckily no cars.

Friday - light 'bearing' noise, could only hear it if you knew what to listen for
Saturday - clunk when taking off from intersection, turning
Sunday AM - bang, rear end locks up

Sounds like a tooth has lodged where it shouldn’t be, and now I have to explain to management why it happened. Not happy at all.

POSTED BY: GARY  - PERTH, WA, AUS, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
"I have a BA II XR6T. I've been complaining about the clunky diff since 70000 kms. I have been getting the car serviced at the same Ford dealer since I had the car from new. Nothing has ever been done to address my complaints. Now that warranty has expired Ford says that there is excessive back lash in the diff and they will need the car 2 - 3 days to fix it... Amazing. I hate to think how much it will cost."
POSTED BY: MICHAEL - SYLVANIA, NSW, AUS 16 MAY 2008

========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"FORD FALCON BA 2004: NOISY DIFF - Can anyone advise if Ford is interested in rectifying noisy diff 3 month out of new car warranty. 81,000 Kms - or do we have to pay for their bad quality?"
POSTED BY: SYLVAIN NICLAIR - PERTH, WA, AUS 26 APR 2008

========== REPLY ==========
You have to pay for Ford's diff supplier bad quality. Ford don’t make the diffs, they just fit them to their cars.

Good Luck, Mark.
POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC 28/4/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Ford will cover it is pretty common especially in the wagons starts at about 50,000km.
POSTED BY: MICK - BRISBANE, QLD 29/4/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Same problem going in for 3rd diff (hemisphere) on Tuesday. Does anyone know what the actual cause is? My 2005 XR6 manual ute just ticked over 3 years and has 78000k. This diff only lasted 2 weeks! Ford is baffled.
POSTED BY: JASON - CAIRNS, QLD 1/5/2008

NISSAN NAVARA STX 2007:  RE: SPEEDO ERRORS     *REPLY*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
INSTRUMENTS

Hi to all who have issues with the D40 Navara of which I am one. I have a diesel auto and has done 31000 klms. I have had an issue with fuel economy from day 1 from which the dealer said wait until it is run in. I am still waiting.

Around town at present I am getting around 480klm per 70 litres and this is when driving normally or holding it under 3000rpm for the whole tank of fuel. These figures do not change much when on the highway. The Nissan dealer has said there is no problem as the computer has told them that everything is ok. They did re-map the computer which I think actually made it worse.

I have spoken to Nissan through their consumer help line and basically they told me that if the dealer has done the tests and all is ok it must be the way I drive it. After I slammed the phone down on them I rang the dealer again who was going to pressure Nissan to do something. The dealer has said to me that I was not the only one complaining about this issue. Why can’t Nissan do something about it? As they say you should go with your heart not your head, and buy a Hilux.

Still reading the rave reviews the D40 gets makes me sick. I will never buy another Nissan nor will most the people I know.

Other issues are, have had seat trim replaced under warranty and then have since removed round seat adjustment dials so it won’t happen again. I have a very bad rattle in the air box which I have found is two plastic components rattling together because of their ill fit. Nissans answer is they have had the problem before so just put some self tapping screws in them to hold together.

Nissan Wake Up!

Regards, Mark Pearce

POSTED BY: MARK PEARCE - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
"I also have encountered the same problem with my speedo. I always thought that it must have been that after purchasing the car I fitted it with 20's but after reading these comments am convinced it must be a common 8% problem.

My other gripe with the car is the air leak in the rear drivers side door. Would appreciate any feedback on this problem if anybody else has experienced it."
POSTED BY: SHAYNE WEBSTER - NTH DANDENONG, VIC, AUS 11 FEB 2008

========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"NISSAN NAVARA STX 2007: SPEEDO ERRORS - The Speedo in my Navara over reads by about 8%. If the speedo shows 100kmh, the real speed is about 93kmh. So when I think I am doing the speed limit, other motorists behind me aren't impressed and tailgate etc.

I am wondering if the problem exists with the model, or perhaps it’s just mine. The dealer indicated that the error rate is within the Australian Design Rules so no repair will be done.

Has anybody else noticed a significant speedo error in an STX Navara? "
POSTED BY: MICHAEL TROTTER - CANBERRA, ACT, AUS 12/10/2007

========== REPLY ==========
Hi Michael,
I have the same ute and found the standard tyres to read just as you say, 100 when actually doing 93. I changed to 265/75/16 Cooper STT's shortly after purchase and these made the speedo read 100 at 100 though they have ruined fuel economy badly.

Regards, Allan.
POSTED BY: ALLAN BENNETT - MILDURA, VIC 14/10/2007

========== REPLY ==========
Hi Michael,
I had a similar problem with a Patrol a few years back where cars were flying past me at 100kph. I had to get my wife to drive next to me to see what my speed was. It was a pretty rough way of testing but I estimated the speed was out by 10%. I then had the Patrol dyno tested to see exactly how far out it was. It was 10% out and I complained when I took the car in for a service. Yes, the Australian design rules allow for 10% error but that is no excuse for the manufacturer to be so far out with their tolerances.

In the end, the Nissan dealership suspected that the speedo drive in the transmission may have been the wrong one and replaced it. The speedo from that date has read 100% accurate. Maybe your Navara has the same problem? Have it dyno tested and let the dealer know what the results are. If it’s out by more than 10%, then give them the receipt for the dyno test for reimbursement.
Good Luck, Mark.
POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC 15/10/2007

========== REPLY ==========
Michael,
I also have the same problem on my 07 STX. Speedo out about 7% @ 100. But distance is correct i.e. odometer is correct. I checked this with roadside radar and GPS. I suspect this may be deliberate to mask the understating of their fuel consumption figures (when driving slower you should use less fuel).

A check on fuel consumption for over 18000 klm reveals that stated figures by Nissan are unobtainable. Nissan don't have a FIX.
Al
POSTED BY: AL - CAIRNS, QLD, AUS 25/10/2007

========== REPLY ==========
Hi I also have a STX V6 Auto. Mine to was reading 100ks/h and actually doing 93ks/h. I put a set of 17inch rims and 265/70/17 Cooper STs on and then checked with a hand held GPS and it read spot on 100 at 100. But the fuel economy is shocking 18ltrs/100 with 4000ks on the clock. I too are looking at trading in for a Hilux SR5.
POSTED BY: MICHAEL JORGENSEN - PERTH, WA 17/2/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Have the same problem, this is obviously designed into the vehicle to up the fuel economy.
POSTED BY: LEIGH SKINNER - COBDEN, VIC 26/5/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Common problem with the Navara and Frontier world wide. Australia’s Navara's get the smallest tyres of all I think at 255/75/R16. Nissan will just tell you that it meets design regs and is within the 10% allowable error. No real fix as such but many different ways to make it appear to be right. I run the 265/60/R17 and the speedo is almost correct however odometer is wrong. I keep a GPS in the truck always and it tells me the real speed.

Another thing to look into is a unit called a Scangauge. It will give you real time readouts on things like speed and economy as well as amount of fuel left in the tank etc. Available from the manufacturers for about the $180 mark and it’s just plug it in and away you go.

For more helpful info the online forums are your best bet. I am on ClubFrontier.org with many other Navara owners and we share the help and tips to one and all. It may be that most of the things you’re wondering about can be answered by the members on that site. The truck is called a Frontier in Nth America and sold with 4cyl or the same V6 as ours and all parts etc are same so you can search for info on their Frontier.

Cheers
Paul
POSTED BY: PAUL HINCHY - CANBERRA, ACT 11/6/2008

HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2002:  RE: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST!     *FEEDBACK WANTED*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
IGNITION

Hi guys, had a go at this on the weekend with my daughter’s Astra (2000 Olympic) but alas, pulled it all apart but there was no hole on top under wiper stalk. There appears to be a black plastic shroud which is attached to a flat black wiring box. It looks like you can unscrew a ring around the key hole, it has two slots in it, but didn’t want to risk **** it all together. Any advice would be greatfully accepted, it is a pain having to go out in the middle of the night because my daughter can’t get the key out of the lock. Thanks heaps.

POSTED BY: LINDSEY  - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2000: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST! - I have a TS 2000 Astra and the key kept getting jammed. It won’t turn. It happened about two years ago and cost $300 from memory. I have searched /googled every site in the world or so it seems on this problem. Seems there are Many Astra owners with this problem.

Today - fixed it ... and it didn’t cost a penny.

Step 1. Pop off the front top cover immediately behind the steering wheel. The one which the indicator and wipers stalks go through.

Step 2. Get a star (like an allen key) key and undo one screw from underneath, and two on the top sides (Revealed after step 1).

Step 3. Depress the latch on the side of the wiper stalk assy and slide out the whole assy from the slot, towards you.

Step 4. Get a small nail or very small screw driver and poke it into the small hole revealed by removing the wiper assy.

Step 5. Put your key into the gin and while holding the nail in the small hole (pressing inwards) pull the whole barrel assy out. Easy! (There's a small spring loaded 'catch' on the barrel which locks it inside the steering column.

Step 6. Look at the opp end of the barrel to the key and see a small pin which rotates when the key is turned. The last position of this pin, when you remove the key from the barrel is where the problem lies. There's a small 'ramp' inside the barrel which you can see. It will be burred and pitted from use. (and a 'sharp' end on the pin. Steel pin and soft metal barrel)

Step 7. Use a small file to smooth the metal ramp.

Step 8. Rotate the key all the way "on". Depress the Pin in slightly (against a spring) so you can rotate the barrel to the end and the pin will pop out. (Don’t Lose It, or the small spring inside the hole the pin came out of!)

Step 9. File the fat end of the pin to look rounded, not flat. This makes it easier to ride up the ramp and prevent damaging the *hit metal ramp again.

Step 10 Reinstall the pin and rotate the key so the pin can’t fly out.

Step 11. Put a small amt of grease on the pin and work with the key backwards and forwards to ensure it is working OK.

Step 12. Hold the spring catch (Step 5) down with a small screwdriver and reinsert the barrel. It can only go back in One Way! Trail and error will find it!

Step 13. Reverse assemble the stalks, covers etc.

Saved around $140 in parts.

Good luck "
POSTED BY: ROB ADAMS - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 3 DEC 2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK

========== REPLY ==========
I have a VY sedan Holden and its doing the same. I had a price to fix it of $220.00. And they said it was not covered under warranty but the car is only 3 years old and still under warranty. I will try your method first thanks.
POSTED BY: JASON - ADELAIDE, SA 15/12/2007

========== REPLY ==========
Thanks Rob, will give this a go. I was gearing myself up to buy a new lock at vast expense! Thanks for the tip and Happy Christmas.

Jon P
POSTED BY: JON PIPPARD - WOY WOY, NSW 19/12/2007

========== REPLY ==========
Thanks Rob we have an Astra Bertone Coupe 2003. Great description every step exactly as you described and it fixed my problem. Caught on Xmas eve with minimal tools and a stressed wife some makeshift tools a leatherman and your post saved the day.

Thanks Heaps
POSTED BY: BRIAN LAWRENCE - AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND 25/12/2007

========== REPLY ==========
You're a star mate your solution to Astra ignition lock solved my problem with a friends car and made me look good at same time. Only thing now is to get electrical part of the switch as the racv's fix was a hammer which as we all know is not the way to go so thanks man. Help appreciated.
POSTED BY: TREVOR MORRIS - CARRUM DOWNS, VIC, AUS 7/01/2008

========== REPLY ==========
Message to Rob Adams - re Holden Astra ignition

Many thanks.

I had something of a battle to actually withdraw the barrel section from the steering column because the pin was worn - but once it was out the remainder of the solution to fix was straight forward and worked first time.
POSTED BY: RICHARD MONS - TRINITY GARDENS, SA 27/4/2008

NISSAN NAVARA STX 2008:  STX SPEEDO OUT BY 9 KMPH    *COMPLAINT*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
INSTRUMENTS

Just contacted Nissan to find out how to have my speedo calibrated after noticing it is only going 91 kmph when it shows 100. They won’t do a thing, within 10% of the reading. Nice one Nissan, it is obviously your way of making the fuel economy look much much better than what it actually is, **** poor Nissan.

POSTED BY: LEIGH SKINNER - COBDEN, VIC, AUS, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== REPLY ==========
Hi Leigh
This has been an ongoing issue with the trucks since the early models in 5006/6. They are all out. I use a unit called a Scangauge to set up speed and economy readings etc.Works a treat. I am on a forum called ClubFrontier.org with my 2006/7 4x2 D40 and there are heaps of other Navara's there from other countries as well as Aus. Please feel free to drop by and read through the pages and pages of info on our trucks

Cheers , Paul

P.S this is not any form of advertising but the forum will help answer many questions you may have and also help you find out what parts do and don’t fit our trucks and it is all 100% free.
POSTED BY: PAUL HINCHY - CANBERRA, ACT 11/6/2008

========== REPLY ==========
I have the same problem, the faster you go the more out it reads. Nissan are fitting a new speedo next week. Don’t be rude to them, but keep at them - it has taken me 9 months. The fuel is another problem.

Regards David M
POSTED BY: DAVID M - WANNEROO, WA 11/6/2008

VOLKSWAGEN JETTA WOLFSBURG 2008:  RE: LET ME KNOW IF I HAVE A MAJOR PROBLEM     *REPLY*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
NOISE

I have a 2008 Wolfsburg Jetta. I have a clicking noise that is when driving over bumps and I found the fold down rear seat arm rest to be the problem. It happens when the arm rest is in the closed position. They all do it.

Keith

POSTED BY: KEITH  - CHICAGO, IL, USA, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"Hello I have an 2007 Volkswagen Jetta Wolfsburg edition. Inside of the car I hear the noises like something clicking sounds like something want to open up and close up right away (example: click, click). Please let me know if I have a major problem or my car needs attention from dealer."
POSTED BY: DAVID K - SALEM, OREGON, USA 24 APR 2008

HYUNDAI GETZ  2004:  RE: HYUNDAI 1.3 GETZ 2004     *REPLY*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
ENGINE

I have had several problems with plug/ignition leads on a lot of the Hyundai range. Sounds like a simple solution to your problem. Should cost around $100 for a set and fit them yourself. Let me know if this works.

POSTED BY: D DEREK - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"HYUNDAI GETZ 1.3 2004: HYUNDAI 1.3 GETZ 2004 - Vehicle surges badly, and under powered, 125000kms. Had catalytic converter replaced under warranty, injectors cleaned, back to Hyundai 6 or more times - no help still under warranty but tired of Hyundai. Has anyone had similar problems, how did they fix it?"
POSTED BY: JOHN BULL - TERRANORA, NSW, AUS 21 MAY 2008

========== REPLY ==========
Thanks for the feed back. I replaced leads, plugs, fuel pump, and injectors, compression tested and fuel system drained and cleaned, all at My own expense 4000 kms ago. Hyundai stated they replaced (Throttle positioning sensor) but this was not done. I had other mechanics look at this sensor and they agreed it was not replaced. It could also be 02 sensor but as car is still under warranty I have to keep taking it back. Which is a waste of Time, Hyundai are a waste of space, thanks.
POSTED BY: JOHN BULL - TERRANORA, NSW 26/5/2008

NISSAN PATROL GU2 2001:  RE: VIBRATING THROTTLE CABLE AND PEDAL     *REPLY*

26/05/2008

ISSUE:
ENGINE

If you have the 4.5 litre then this is no real problem. It is just that the cable is connected straight to the top of the engine block so you feel the full force of the engine through your right foot.

POSTED BY: EDWARD  - SWANSE, UNITED KINGDOM, 26/05/2008  PROVIDE FEEDBACK
========== ORIGINAL POSTING ==========
"NISSAN PATROL GU2 2001: VIBRATING THROTTLE CABLE AND PEDAL - We have a 2001 Nissan Patrol 4.2 turbo diesel.

We have a problem with vibration coming through the pedal. We have replaced the throttle cable but problem is still there.

Can anyone help?"
POSTED BY: TOM BAMMANT - DARWIN, NT - AUS 31 JUL 2007
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