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| COMPLAINTS
CORNER |
complaints.motorsm.com |
| "Complaints Corner" provides an online billboard to publicize problems or complaints about your car or poor after-sales support from dealerships and manufacturers. Good news about exceptional customer service etc. will also be published. N.B. MotorSM is not responsible nor endorse views expressed by contributors. | |
| DEC 2007 - COMPLAINTS CORNER 2007: 11/07 10/07 9/07 8/07 7/07 6/06 5/07 4/07 3/07 2/07 1/07 2006 |
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KIA CARNIVAL KV 1999: SHOULD I BUY THIS CAR AND GET THE ENGINE CHANGED? *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Dear Friends, |
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| POSTED BY: ADITYA GUPTA - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 31/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Do not buy a Kia Carnival at any price. If you get it for free, don’t touch it. As cheap and tempting as it is, stay away from them. They are nothing but trouble. They have a design or manufacturing fault in their engines and there is no guarantee that if you replace it, that it will last. Cheers, Mark. POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC 31/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== What would you really like to eat, if you have only two options: a lemon or an orange ... Whatever you choose will be the answer... POSTED BY: PHIL FROM BRISSIE - OZ 2/1/2008 ========== REPLY ========== Don't go near it. I have had 2 motors put into my Kia Carnival 2000. Kia are buying them back to get the thorn in their side off the roads. The oil gets into the water reservoir as well. If it is a 2000-(I think 2004) don't go near it. My one was a 2000 model. They are a bomb. Get a new Carnival perhaps but not an older one. Sorry. POSTED BY: EDWARD SMITH - SYDNEY, NSW 12/1/2008 |
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VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 2007: RE: CLUTCH BURNS OUT AT 10,000 MILES *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I agree 100 percent. My son's car has been nothing but trouble and the dealer does not care. It took them 4 days to diagnose his transmission! The trans they say should be replaced. The car is only 4 years old and they want 4500.00 to replace it! They did not even offer him a lender car. They told him to rent a car. |
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| POSTED BY: PH - MOORESTOWN, NJ, USA, 31/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE NEW BEETLE 2007: CLUTCH BURNS OUT AT 10,000 MILES - My 15 year love affair with Volkswagen has officially come to an end. I would like to scream from the roof tops that this company doesn't back their product and does not care if they lose loyal customers. I will never buy another car from them again. I leased a 2007 VW New Beetle in October of 2006. It is a 5 speed manual transmission. It has 10,000 miles on it to date. Thursday while attempting to drive up North to visit my family for Thanksgiving the clutch started skipping and a horrible smelling white smoke started blowing out of the car. We pulled over to see what was wrong, it finally stopped smoking and the clutch was barely working. I called the local dealership Saturday morning and they say "bring the car right in". We bring it in and then they tell us "well, we don't actually have anybody who can look at it today but we'll see what we can do and call you". They call me at 5:00 p.m. and say "nope, didn't have anybody to look at it, it'll have to wait until Monday". So Monday in the middle of the afternoon they call us and say "we need your authorization for the $900 fee to take the car apart and look at it, it may be a wear and tear item and not covered under warranty". Are You Kidding Me? 10,000 miles? I have been driving a stick shift since I was 16 years old. I have leased two other New Beetles from Volkswagen and have never Once had an issue with the clutch. I Know How To Drive A Manual Transmission. I'm sorry but if their product is so badly made that the clutch will burn out after 10,000 miles I have no interest in putting my life in the hands of Volkswagen. We called the corporate office to complain. The corporate office didn't call back until the next day and told us we're out of luck, that's policy. Their policy is 12 months or 12,000 miles for wear and tear items. We've had the car for 13 months. They don't care that we've leased 2 other Volkswagens from them and have been a loyal, on-time paying, perfect lease returning customer since 2000. They have never had one single issue with us. And they would not even look at the car to see if it was a possible failure opposed to "wear and tear" unless we first fronted $900. I am Done with Volkswagen. Their product is Not well made, they don't back their product and they care more about profit than keeping loyal Good customers. I am sad to see them go ... I look back on my '68 and '69 Bugs, I look back on my 1990 GTI and I look back on my 3 New Beetles with fondness. But I Will Not deal with a company who isn't willing to work with Good customers." POSTED BY: DONELL ROCHA - HUNTINGTON BEACH, USA 30/11/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Sorry to hear of your trouble. Your not alone. POSTED BY: T KETTNER - MOE SOUTH, VIC 30/11/2007 |
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HOLDEN BARINA 2006: RE: 2 LOTS OF BRAKES AND 2 LOTS OF TYRES, WHATS REALLY WRONG *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
New car very low mileage as is wife's second car, and out of warranty at 11000 kls. |
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| POSTED BY: COL FILTNESS - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 30/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN BARINA 2006: 2 LOTS OF BRAKES AND 2 LOTS OF TYRES, WHATS REALLY WRONG - I got my Barina Jan of 2006 from Motorama Holden. I’ve had it for 2yrs in Jan and had nothing but problems. Have been through 2 lots of brakes because they were grinding and shuttering which has started again. 2 lots of front tyres because they went bald only on the outside, grinding in my suspension that has to be greased every 1 to 3 months. There is also the noise in the steering when I turn and when I have the aircon on, when I drive the steering is loose. I’ve done a lot of km because of work so I can understand general wear and tare but I’ve also had to take it back 9 times because the boot lock kept breaking. And all they keep telling me is it's because of the km's but all this happened in the first 40-50,000km. Now even though it's still under warranty they want me to pay because they fixed it once. I went to them before they kept telling me that there was nothing wrong. My advice, never buy a Holden because I won't be, and anyone I meet I’ll tell them the same thing." POSTED BY: SHEREE SCHAENZEL - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 28 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Further to the timing belt which I would have expected to need replacing at 100,000 to 150,000. Not so its 60,000 on the Barina, mine failed at 62,000 so do not be late for a service. As an ex mechanic and a service station prop. I never saw a car come in for a service on the exact mileage. Quote from Sunbury Holden agents, $3500 to $4000 to replace bent valves (The belt has been replaced). POSTED BY: COL FILTNESS - KILMORE, VIC - AUS 23 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Got my TK Barina for wife June 2006. So far I have replaced the tyres on the front 5 times (10 tyres in total) with wheel alignments carried out at each replacement. Tyres are wearing on outside edge, with a distinct pull to the left. The local service manager has acknowledged there is a problem with the car, however, Holden have washed their hands of it, blaming me. Brakes have also been an issue, with shuddering starting at about 3000k's. Rotors were machined 3 times, then replaced. Currently car has 65000k's, and brakes are shuddering real bad once again. However, last night, the brakes failed to work at all (luckily I was only doing 10km/hr). The braked pedal had a really big shudder, and then went straight to the floor. I will be taking this car back to Holden and leaving in the dealership where I got it from, as my confidence in this car has ceased to exist, and I am not prepared to put my young family at risk. POSTED BY: GRANT SEIBRIGHT - SHELLHARBOUR, NSW - AUS 16 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Grant I hope you did take the Barina back to the Dealership as your family is truly at risk. I had exactly the same thing happen to me and I too was lucky. I was on the flat but my nephew borrowed the Barina as his car was off the road for the day and he wasn't so lucky coming down Mt Keira the same thing happened. Brakes failed, hit the guard rail ending up on the embankment on the other side of the road. Thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic and thank god he is ok but the car was a write-off and insurance is not paying. They say I need to prove the brakes failed? I had it into my mechanic a couple of weeks before because of what happened to me on the flat and he couldn't find anything wrong with them. I said to the insurance company isn't that proof enough, why would I pay a mechanic to check my brakes? Where to go from here. I feel Holden is liable and I am scared people will be killed if they haven't already. I want Holden to recall the Barina 2006 model it is dangerous! POSTED BY: KIM - WOLLONGONG, NSW - AUS 29 SEP 2009 |
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MITSUBISHI MAGNA V6 3.5L 0: TAPPETS NOISY RECENTLY ANY SUGGESTIONS? OIL CHANGE? REPLACE? *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Evening, |
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| POSTED BY: TROY MCMANUS - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 30/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Hi had same problem after new belt was fitted. 3 weeks later belt jumped one tooth which put valve timing out and tappets rattle. Fixed belt and no more problems - hope this helps. POSTED BY: ROD - PERTH, WA - AUS 25 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== It's a Magna... What do you expect? Don't stress too much, just listen to other ones and you will realise it’s a common characteristic! My TL (newer and less kms) started to do it before I got rid of it! POSTED BY: JAMES - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 4 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I too have seen the same problem after replacing the timing belt. If the mechanic is not careful, the cam can spin after taking the belt off. POSTED BY: AARON - MT GAMBIER, SA - AUS 21 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== We had exactly the same thing after we replaced our time belt on our Magna except our motor blew up as a result and we were unable to get the car from the Mitsubishi Mechanic to get a 2nd opinion for 48 hours - they would not release the vehicle. When they finally did release the vehicle, everything in the motor was how we had dropped it in apart from the timing belt which miraculously was in pristine condition again. We took the Mitsubishi dealership to VCAT but without the "Actual" motor in court we were unable to prove our case. Also Mitsubishi Australia customer care didn't give a ****. POSTED BY: MICHELLE PAGE - GLEN IRIS, VIC - AUS 5 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have 2 TH Magna and had the problem with noise but if you change oil and filter every 5000 kms - synthetic oil should be fine. I did 305000 kms, never had a problem or anything mechanical. Never changed timing belt - still runs smoothly. POSTED BY: ALI - DANDENONG, VIC - AUS 16 DEC 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I had the same noise... have done 180,000 turned out to be low oil levels, especially after the hot summer. Did oil change and brought levels back up. Put in lifter-stop additive... sweet now, quiet as a mouse, until I let the wheels spin up! Hope your problem is nothing major. POSTED BY: LEB - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 29 APR 2009 |
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TOYOTA RAV4 CRUISER 2006: WIND RUSH NOISE *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I am experiencing what I consider excessive wind rush/noise at speed of 50-60km hour. |
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| POSTED BY: WAYNE FORREST - ADELAIDE, SA, AUS, 30/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Wayne, I'll presume that you don’t have roof racks fitted to your car as they could be the cause of wind noise. Have you had the car since new? Has the noise got worse over a period of time? Was the car involved in a collision that you are aware of? If I were you, I'd find a car yard that has a Rav 4 around the same year and similar mileage, with hopefully original tyres still. Pretend you are looking at buying it and see if you can take it for a test drive. If there is no wind noise, then tell your dealer that the noise is not normal and you want it fixed because you have driven another one that has no noise. Invite him to take a test drive with you of another Rav 4 to hear the difference. If the wind noise is evident in another Rav 4, then it may be something that is common to that model but somehow, I doubt it. Good Luck, Mark. POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC 31/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I think that it is possible to fit the roof racks on back to front which creates excessive noise, can't confirm it, but I am sure I read it somewhere. POSTED BY: MARK - ADELAIDE, SA 19/2/2008 |
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NISSAN NAVARA 2006: RE: ANYONE ELSE HAD A REAR DIFF START MAKING NOISE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Aaron, |
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| POSTED BY: MARK - PERTH, WA, AUS, 29/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA D 40 2006: ANYONE ELSE HAD A REAR DIFF START MAKING NOISE, MY FIRST ONE STARTED AT 8,500 - After fighting with the useless team at one particular dealership over them wanting to put an oil stabiliser in it to shut me up, or a quick fix for my 2.5td manual STX. Finally they put a complete new diff in. After my fiancé picked up the vehicle, she drove up the road and the diff started making a loud crunching sound and the brakes faded coming into the round about putting her in a dangerous situation. Now when your mrs rings you up crying because some **** head has failed to test drive the vehicle made me **** wild. So I rang the **** at the dealership and told them what had just happened. They told her to just drive the vehicle back to them. As she neared the service door they came out and told her to shut it down. It was making that much noise that they heard it from inside. This left me stranded 30 minutes away, I rang them and asked how the **** I was gonna get home. They informed me that my ute was to stay there the night and couldn't be driven, they said sorry and I had to find my own way home. Now to cut a long story short, they cut a oil seal which bled the oil into the drum causing the brake dramas. This is the second story I got. I don't believe a word they said, my argument is that my brand new diff was running with no oil, and what the **** was making all the noise. 32,000kms on the clock, the noise it made as we were coming into a round about at Alice Springs, it was like I was dragging a lump of concrete up the road. Pulled straight into their dealership and they pulled it apart. I informed them I wanted digital photos of the lot. They done a great job and helped me out as much as they could. What the result was, both axle bearings were **** big time, the crown wheel showed wear, nice pile of metal filings in the oil. It was a mess. Nissan (Aus) solution ... I could get diff number three but it would take a week to air freight from Europe ..."I had no hire car and paid three nights accom because they wouldn't” what they done was cannabilise one of Alice Nissan’s own vehicles which I much appreciate and got me going with the hope it would make it back to Vic to be fixed then. I had to be at work and had no other option. Thankfully after many nerves we made it back, after speaking to a for once helpful person (supervisor) at Nissan (Aus). They wanted my ute on a truck and down to their head office for their engineers to inspect! Ute never made it took it shooting went over a few bumps nothing extreme, go to drive it in the morning the power steering is shot, oil every where, can't be bothered even looking at it. Rang Nissan assist told them to come get their car, it’s the RACV on weekends and they could do nothing but tow it outside the nearest dealership. Had to get the truck on Monday drop off my 'Hilux' hire car and take mine away (fair swap I thought). Got the ute back last night, what they found. They claim it was probably the axles and bearing making the noise and left the diff alone saying that its fine, power steering line came loose! Leaked out all the oil. Doesn’t give me a huge amount of confidence but I'll see how it goes. Credit where it’s due though. They had the engineer for that model working on my ute. He has done a great job by making my vehicle more "drivable" as they said. I’ve got a completely different car now, the brakes are no longer spongy, the gearbox is silky smooth, the clutch is lighter. They put a genuine Nissan wiring loom in for the bull bar which made the indicators work properly, fully detailed the car, and filled the tank up! At the end of the day you need someone who knows what they are doing. I'm just happy that Nissan finally pulled their finger out of their **** and started helping me. People spend a lot of money on cars you expect service. I'd be keen to hear if anyone else has similar stories. " POSTED BY: AARON - TRAFALGAR, VIC, AUS 18/11/2007 |
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NISSAN PATROL 2000: RE: BLOWN MOTORS AND TURBOS *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
After getting rid of our 1998 2.8 turbo diesel for blowing its head twice! |
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| POSTED BY: MARK KENNEWELL - ADELAIDE , SA, AUS, 29/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN PATROL GU2 2001: blown motors and turbos" POSTED BY: DANIEL SCHOENFELD - MANDURAH, WA - AUS 13/04/2007 ========== REPLY ========== "My 2000 3 litre turbo blew out all 4 pistons at under 140000kms. Of course none of the 5 dealers I have spoken to know of any widespread problem. Nissan Australia acknowledges the issue but so far their offer of contribution is less than a quarter of the cost of remedy. I am seriously considering trying to initiate or join a class action through Slater and Gordon." POSTED BY: FRED - ADELAIDE, SA 7/7/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have a Patrol 2001 model. Has had 2 engines and 3 turbos and has 197000km. It is a 30di motor, will never buy one again. Nissan South Africa managers won't even take customer calls. POSTED BY: BRADLEY BROWN - DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA 25/7/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have a July 2000 GU Patrol with 110000kms. On Monday 26-11-07 I lost power & the smoke that was bellowing out of the exhaust was mind blowing. The diagnosis is a hole in No 1 Piston & what looks to be a bill for around $10'000.00. Has anyone out there being able to get Nissan to pay for parts as this is a fault Nissan admitted to on their 1800 035 035 number when I called. I realise with the age of my vehicle & cannot expect total coverage of all costs from Nissan but I do believe Nissan should cover all parts & pay least 50% of labour costs. With the amount of Patrols that have failed in this manner I can’t believe Nissan have not had class action has not being taken? Or has it POSTED BY: MARC - SINGLETON, NSW, 29/11/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi ya We have a 2001 model that has also had an engine failure. Aapparently common in this series. I would be pleased to join a CA against Nissan and can recommend S&G. You are most welcome to contact me. Sharyn POSTED BY: SHARYN - MILDURA, VIC 12/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Another one for the list, have a '03 Navara with the 3 litre engine, ZD 30. Ours did 102,000k's before blowing hole in piston (that was on the second turbo). Nissan does not seem keen in covering costs though. We are still trying after 12 months to get money for a turbo that went just under warranty at 99,000k's. The thing that gets me is that they keep putting these faulty engines in cars. Last I heard you could still get them in Navara or Patrol wagons, now I hear a rumour the other day that this engine is all you can get in a new Patrol ute. How well are they going to go in a big workhorse like that? POSTED BY: LUKE - QLD 12/1/2008 |
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NISSAN NAVARA 2006: RE: STALLS ON HOT START SINCE FUEL FILTER REPLACED AT 60,000KMS *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
If you suspect air is getting into the system, there is an old method to prove or disprove it. "Carefully" apply pressure to the fuel tank via the filler neck. I repeat "carefully" only a few psi required. If you indeed do have a system leak upstream of the pump you should now have a stain somewhere along the line or at a fitting. |
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| POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS, 29/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA D22 2006: STALLS ON HOT START SINCE FUEL FILTER REPLACED AT 60,000KMS - Since replacing my fuel filter I have been experiencing stalling due to air in fuel system. I have primed the pump as recommended. I have replaced the filter twice since and I am still having same problem. This only happens when starting the car hot. I have checked the drain at bottom of filter (Ryco) and this seems OK. Please help me. I hear that these cars are referred to as hand-grenades, please prove this wrong." POSTED BY: JUSTIN MURRAY - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS 15/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I also have a Navara D40 diesel. It has been doing this since day one in December 06. It is worse when the tank is low. It has no guts down low and surges on cruising pedal between around 1600 and 2100rpm. I have towed my caravan with it and it was embarrassing. The worst tow vehicle I have had so far. It has now done 55000km and has been back to local Nissan dealer on no less than 8 occasions (6 services and 2 special visits) to sort it out. On each occasion the dealer has told me they have plugged in the computer and there is nothing wrong with it. My last vehicle was D22 Navara, I had it for 3 years and 175000km and it **** all over this thing. I know there is a problem with it, but have just had no joy getting it sorted. If anyone else has experienced this and had it sorted, I would love to know what it is. Maybe then I can let the dealer know what to do to fix it. POSTED BY: P TUTT - PERTH, WA, AUS 25/12/2007 |
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FORD FAIRLANE 1995: BLOWN BULB *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi there, I have just bought my car, a Ford Fairlane V8 1995 model, and the other day was reversing out the drive when I hit the brakes, light on the dashboard came flashing on saying "blown bulb". I then check around the car to see that everything was working. Side lights, brake lights, headlights and reverse lights all working. Can some body help me on this as it may cost me a packet to take it in for it might be only a bulb to be replaced which I can do myself. |
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| POSTED BY: GEORGE NICHOLAS - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 29/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Hi George. Does the warning lamp come on when the brake pedal is depressed or when reverse is engaged? Or both? You may need to have the ignition on without the motor running to find out. When you locate the time at which the warning lamp illuminates (it can take a few seconds to respond to an error) carefully check the globes on that circuit. There may be a resistance at the globe holders or a globe about to fail, giving a different resistance value on that side of the circuit. The system compares the values from side to side, so the globes should be matched. Also check if you have a trailer plug that the cover is closed correctly when not towing. Hope this helps, Dav POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERY, NSW 29/12/2007 |
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NISSAN PATROL 2001: RE: ABS DANGEROUS OFFROAD *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Please don't tar all ABS systems with the same brush. There are two or three types and configurations of ABS systems fitted to cars. In essence, there are "2 channel" systems, which control 2 pairs or wheels, e.g. front right/rear left at the same time. These are usually fitted to cheaper cars. The "4 channel" ABS systems, found on higher end cars controls each wheel independently, and these systems are nothing short of brilliant! |
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| POSTED BY: DAVID BURGER - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN PATROL GUII 4.8 ST 2001: ABS DANGEROUS OFFROAD - I have owned this vehicle for a year now and experience difficult/dangerous braking when off-road. When normal braking off road the ABS kicks in, causing vehicle to almost coast into corners and hazards usually resulting into a heightened panic situation where the car is thrown sideways or you have to drive through what you are trying to avoid. I have tried many things; I always have it in 4x4 ever since first incident when off road, the problem only decreased by about 20%. Adjusted tyre pressure helped again but still not enough. And of course driving slowly, no help especially when towing or on corrugations. I read many 4x4 mags and the only time I have heard it referred to is when they were testing this model when new. One point was in the article it would be good if they had built in an off switch to the ABS. That is as far as they went. I think I know what they are saying. See what you guys think Thanks Steve" POSTED BY: STEVE RIDDEN - GOVE, NT, AUS 18/09/2007 ========== REPLY ========== ABS is downright dangerous even in city driving. Try coming off the end of the tar ski jump on road resurfacing into a roundabout or intersection and the person in front props suddenly and then you almost freewheel into them. Very weird sensation! And whose fault would that be. POSTED BY: DANNY GILLIN - WARRNAMBOOL, VIC 23/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Steve, I have a 2005 GUIV 4.2TD with Old Man Emu suspension and ABS. This is my fourth Patrol and the first one with ABS. The vehicle got a good workout traveling to the tip of Cape York and back. The first time I came into a corrugated corner a bit hot in two wheel drive I *** myself when I tried to brake heavily. From then on I use FWD in the rough and find it fantastic. My work partner has a GUIII 3.0 without ABS and similar in setup but with standard suspension, has more trouble holding it straight through the same corners and pulling up. He then tried FWD and found it better but still not able to negotiate the same corners as safely as I. I think the difference is in the OME suspension which is brilliant in its ability to soak up the bumps. (A side note on the OME suspension, it's best cruising speed on corrugations is 90 to 110KM per hour were as the standard Patrol suspension feels best around 70 to 80. I cannot recommend ABS (and OME) highly enough in my vehicle setup. Regards Con. POSTED BY: CON QUAX - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS 20/12/2007 |
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HOLDEN BARINA 2006: 2 LOTS OF BRAKES AND 2 LOTS OF TYRES, WHATS REALLY WRONG *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
I got my Barina Jan of 2006 from Motorama Holden. I’ve had it for 2yrs in Jan and had nothing but problems. Have been through 2 lots of brakes because they were grinding and shuttering which has started again. 2 lots of front tyres because they went bald only on the outside, grinding in my suspension that has to be greased every 1 to 3 months. There is also the noise in the steering when I turn and when I have the aircon on, when I drive the steering is loose. |
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| POSTED BY: SHEREE SCHAENZEL - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== New car very low mileage as is wife's second car, and out of warranty at 11000 kls. Noisy wiper blades on first use, really bad. Took to agents and they wanted $65 each for rubbers, arms and blades. In time they did replace. After a big fight with the service manager. The replacement were just as bad, I replaced rubbers for $6.00 fixed trouble. 12500 kl could not engage 1st or 2nd gear. Agent said only two complaints of this trouble, but strangely they had a modification available, $139 plus fitting that required removal of motor at 7 hours and $85 an hour. Took to my local garage cost $139 and one hour labour $70. End of agents for me. Then at 62000 kl broken timing belt, cost unknown, at this stage only happened a few days ago over the Christmas period, but am aware it could also involve bent valves and holes in pistons. Like you will never purchase another Holden product. I will add that my 1990 Ford Fairlane just keeps on going with no major troubles and NO breakdowns. Regards Col. POSTED BY: COL FILTNESS - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 30 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Got my TK Barina for wife June 2006. So far I have replaced the tyres on the front 5 times (10 tyres in total) with wheel alignments carried out at each replacement. Tyres are wearing on outside edge, with a distinct pull to the left. The local service manager has acknowledged there is a problem with the car, however, Holden have washed their hands of it, blaming me. Brakes have also been an issue, with shuddering starting at about 3000k's. Rotors were machined 3 times, then replaced. Currently car has 65000k's, and brakes are shuddering real bad once again. However, last night, the brakes failed to work at all (luckily I was only doing 10km/hr). The braked pedal had a really big shudder, and then went straight to the floor. I will be taking this car back to Holden and leaving in the dealership where I got it from, as my confidence in this car has ceased to exist, and I am not prepared to put my young family at risk. POSTED BY: GRANT SEIBRIGHT - SHELLHARBOUR, NSW - AUS 16 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Grant I hope you did take the Barina back to the Dealership as your family is truly at risk. I had exactly the same thing happen to me and I too was lucky. I was on the flat but my nephew borrowed the Barina as his car was off the road for the day and he wasn't so lucky coming down Mt Keira the same thing happened. Brakes failed, hit the guard rail ending up on the embankment on the other side of the road. Thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic and thank god he is ok but the car was a write-off and insurance is not paying. They say I need to prove the brakes failed? I had it into my mechanic a couple of weeks before because of what happened to me on the flat and he couldn't find anything wrong with them. I said to the insurance company isn't that proof enough, why would I pay a mechanic to check my brakes? Where to go from here. I feel Holden is liable and I am scared people will be killed if they haven't already. I want Holden to recall the Barina 2006 model it is dangerous! POSTED BY: KIM - WOLLONGONG, NSW - AUS 29 SEP 2009 |
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HOLDEN COMMODORE VZ SS 2005: RE: EXTRACTORS/EXHAUST *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi John I am a mechanic who was apprenticed by Holden and had Holdens all my life. I am now 48 years old, now to your question. A HSV system is what you need. The difference in hp and sound from a standard system is 100% better. That is one of the reasons HSV cars have bigger kW numbers. I own a 2003 HSV Senator 5.7 ls1 260 kW it sounds great and goes great. |
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| POSTED BY: BOB - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN COMMODORE VZ SS 2005: EXTRACTORS/EXHAUST - I’m looking for an extractor and exhaust package to best suit my manual 5.7L VZ SS Commodore. I'm purely looking for that V8 note and don’t want to have to retune the car when I've got them fitted. If anyone knows of good brands that sound good please let me know. Thank you." POSTED BY: JOHN STEALE - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 11/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Try hm headers/perry they shouldn’t throw the engine light. POSTED BY: ANDREW - LOCATION & EMAIL NOT SUPPLIED 25/12/2007 |
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FORD FALCON XR6 UTE 2006: FAULTY TRANSMISSION AND SOFT ALLOY WHEELS *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
10 months old and not covered under warranty! Transmission has been in four times to be fixed - nothing fixed at all, they keep putting a computer up-grade for the transmission (when under power whilst overtaking a vehicle, it kicks back to 2nd gear and jolts the whole vehicle into gear). |
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| POSTED BY: MATTHEW KENWAY - KINGSTHORPE , QLD, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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HOLDEN JACKAROO 2001: RE: EVEN THE CUSTOMER RELATIONS DEPARTMENT SUCKS *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I had the same problem the other day, Arnott's Holden in Benalla quoted $994. to have the harness, temp & pressure sensors replaced. I had spoken to both them and Holden dealer I purchased if from Lieschke Motors Holbrook, but neither claim any knowledge of these being replaced under warranty/recall. I am having my own mechanic (who I can trust) fix the problem, but would like to know how you got Holden to reimburse you for the cost. |
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| POSTED BY: CAM GRAY - , VIC, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "After installing the injectors at my own cost a month before the recall because I was tired of Holden's years of stalling, Holden after much agonising agreed to reimburse me the cost of the injectors. Yet nearly a year later I have not been paid. I have been assigned a case number with the so called Customer Assistance Centre to make the process take as long as possible. After getting sick of this carry on for months on end I wrote 2 letters to Narelle Stack, Customer Relationship Manager, neither of which she has answered. This company is pitiful for the poor quality vehicles and service that it supplies." POSTED BY: NOEL HAMILTON - ELLALONG, NSW 8/04/2007 ========== REPLY ========== After recalling my Jackaroo for the injector replacement, the replacements failed 3 times. Unfortunately I was on holidays at the time and incurred costs from the Holden dealer of $996 for a wiring harness and temp and pressure sensors. I also incurred costs of an additional $540 for car hire, accommodation, fuel etc for the additional 5 days I was forced to extend my holidays whilst waiting for a successful repair. I claimed all costs from Holden but they only reimbursed me $996. I have since advised them that I will seek legal advice to reclaim the $540 and will seek advice for a Class Action against Holden for all Jackaroo owners who have experienced a financial loss due to this fault before or after the recall. I have contacted Slater and Gordon. POSTED BY: BOB KING - KOONAWARRA, NSW 12/07/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Owner of 2 Holden Jackaroo Diesels. Same ongoing problems with injector seals, poor cold starting, low oil pressure, blown turbo. Have replaced wiring looms, fuel pump, injectors and/or seals, currently again suffering low oil pressure 5 weeks after last work on injectors. When will Holden take responsibility for inherent faults? Would like to hear more. POSTED BY: G RYAN - VIC 27/8/2007 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA CONVERTIBLE 2002: DRIVER WINDOW REPLACEMENT *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I have been reading what other users have to say about the Holden Astras. I have the 02 Bertone Astra convertible and I have to say while it looks good it is the worst car I have ever had in my life. |
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| POSTED BY: RS S - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== I know exactly how you are feeling. I purchased my Astra brand new in 2003 and had problems since day1! They had to come and pick it from my house just 15minutes after driving off from the dealer. I contacted GMH head office and made them cover everything under warranty. You would not believe the problems I had with this vehicle ... ignition barrel, roters/brakes, stereo, computer problems, leaks into the car seats, changing parts in the engine due to cracking noises and the list goes on. My advice would be is to get the problems with your vehicle fixed asap ... don’t worry about how much you have to pay for fixing and then put it Up For Sale! or trade it in (last option). I just recently sold my vehicle and I will never again purchase a Holden Astra or any other Holden again. Hope everything goes well and if this helps, remember you’re not the only one, join the list. Good Luck. POSTED BY: ISABELLA - MELBOURNE,VIC 4/1/2008 |
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CITROEN C3 2006: DON'T BREAK DOWN IN NEWCASTLE, NSW IF YOU HAVE A CITROEN. *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
Overheating warning Monday evening 5pm on outskirts of Newcastle. I called Citroen roadside assist (I did not have their brochure outlining all you are entitled to with me -- only the card); they verified my details, yes, I was more than 100 k's from home; yes, I needed a tow. They organised the tow and goodbye. The tow truck (an NRMA truck) arrived pronto & said they'd be taking my car to Alto Citroen at Broadmeadow. Fine, tow truck man called a cab for me and that was that. No offer of accommodation; no offer of hire car; I was on my own. I didn't get a receipt for my taxi for other things, as I didn't know what I could claim. |
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| POSTED BY: LYNN NADJARIAN - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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FORD FALCON XR6 BA 2004: RE: CAR RUNS FOR 20 SECONDS THEN CUTS OUT *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
It sounds very much like a fuel pump or fuel pickup problem. Fuel pumps also have a safety cutout, so in the event of say no oil pressure (e.g. car crash); the fuel pump will be cutoff ... with approx 10 to 20 seconds delay. Hey, check the fuel pressure sensor connection. |
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| POSTED BY: DAVID BURGER - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 28/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON XR6 BA 2004: CAR RUNS FOR 20 SECONDS THEN CUTS OUT - Hi Guys, Need some advice. I am currently stranded in Melbourne as my BA XR6 won’t go. She has been an awesome car. Yesterday arvo it wouldn’t start - flat battery when and bought a new battery put it in and I was on my way. Got up this morning to go to work and would start. All lights air con and radio working perfect. RACV came out and tell me terminal stuffed and screw into to give better connection and she started. 30min later went to leave started car and 20seconds later it died. Turned it over again ran for 20 seconds and died again. Kept happening so I called RACV again. No joy they can’t fix they reckon it could be anything but it is an electrical problem. I am stranded in Melbourne and have no way of getting home to Country Vic. Does any one have any suggestion on what it might be? Thanks" POSTED BY: FIONA RANSOM - YARRAWONGA, VIC, AUS 23/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Fiona, I had a similar problem with an Audi years ago, finally tracked it down to a broken wire in the small coil in the distributor. It wasn't detectable by sight, but when the car warmed up the fine copper wire expanded and cut the power. Had everyone scratching their heads for a long time. It was a cheap fix in the end - might be worth checking out. Good luck POSTED BY: JO - LAKES ENTRANCE, VIC 24/12/2007 |
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FORD FALCON EBII 1993: VERY LOW MAINTENANCE *GOOD NEWS* |
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ISSUE: |
I have owned an EBII for about four years and can't fault the reliability or the cost of repairs. When I bought it the gas struts that hold the bonnet up did not work but were only $36 each to replace. The only minor fault was the accessories relay failing but the car was still drivable. The only major fault was the failure of the second gear belt and solenoid. This cost $1200 to fix but it had 260000k's on it by the time it packed up. It now has about 300 000k's on it and still run's smoothly and pulls like a steam train. |
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| POSTED BY: CRAIG STEPHENSON - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 27/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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SUZUKI SWIFT 2007: WHEELS OVERSIZE FOR CAR *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
I bought a new Suzuki Swift for my wife from New Spot Suzuki Main North Road Adelaide. It was my wife’s first new car and she loved it. We took delivery of the new car with low profile alloy wheels that the sales manager had on display. |
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| POSTED BY: JIM JOHNSTON - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 25/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Ask for your original wheels back unless you received a very good discount $100. per wheel. I hate low profile tyres, they were made for the race track low side wall = better cornering. On a normal car the standard profile will give you better ride quality. I've been in a BA Ford in the rear seat with low profile tyres, it made a lovely car feel like you want to get out and scrap the car. POSTED BY: RAY - ADELAIDE, SA 26/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Could I suggest you take to car to Pedders and have them look at the wheel alignment, suspension and wheel rims as an independent and trustworthy bunch of people. I don't work for Pedders, but they fix things that dealers and other mechanics overlook. Be surprised! POSTED BY: DAVID BURGER - SYDNEY, NSW 28/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hello, I have an identical Suzuki Swift (March 2005) and maybe the same sound complaint too. My wife has been having to endure this unbearable sound from the rear wheels and it sounds like a wowing hum-drumming sound. Irritatingly we have been enduring it for about 3 months now without a clue to what we can do with it. In July 2007 moved the front Bridgestone tyres from the front to the rear having changed the worn Bridgestones for a pair of Yokohama C3s and moving the worn out but still good Bridgestones to the rear. The noise appeared around October 2007 and we have been wondering what to do with it. Can Suzuki Australia advise? Regards Ken POSTED BY: KENNEDY - MELBOURNE, VIC 22/1/2008 |
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HOLDEN JACKAROO 2002: RE: PROBLEM WITH REVVING WHEN CAR IS DRIVING AND IN GEAR *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi Guys, |
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| POSTED BY: JOSH - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 25/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN JACKAROO 2002: PROBLEM WITH REVVING WHEN CAR IS DRIVING AND IN GEAR. - The car is revving in gear and not changing or going back in gear when this happens. Gear box has been changed at huge cost. Been back four times as repair has not been successful. Anyone with any idea what this could be? Repairer says he can't find anything wrong but the car is still revving and not changing gears. " POSTED BY: C MORROW - REDCL, QLD - AUS 27/03/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, about two weeks ago my 2000 Jackaroo missed going into gear twice on the one day. It was due for its 1300000k service so I took it to Motorama and advised of the problem. They could find nothing wrong. It has happened twice since and I have taken it to a transmission specialist, but he also could find nothing wrong. He also said that he had never heard of a similar intermittent fault. He said that when a car has a problem changing gear the problem will show up all the time. The peculiar thing is that it is exactly the same street and place that it happened all 4 times. Despite driving many K's in other areas during this period. It happens after going down a steep hill (usually with my foot just touching the break to keep the speed down), then when you accelerate to go up the next hill, it does not go into gear. Is this similar to your problem? Has your problem been fixed yet? Bill POSTED BY: BILL MCCART - SPRINGWOOD, QLD 9/4/2007 |
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PRESS-RELEASE CC 2007: MERRY CHRISTMAS TO CONTRIBUTORS AND READERS *THANKS* |
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ISSUE: |
Thank you to all contributors and readers throughout the year. |
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| POSTED BY: COMPLAINTS CORNER - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 25/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Thanks. POSTED BY: JAMES - AUCKLAND, NZ 25/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Thank you so much for hosting this site as I'm sure it has helped many people. I'm hoping that 2008 will bring all Kia Carnival owners some financial relief thanks to the hard work of Dale Morris in Perth, all originating from this site. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Mark. POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC 26/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Thank you CC. My family and I wish all contributors a trouble free future. Let’s hope the majority of contributions will be good news or at least very small problems for 2008. POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW 29/12/2007 |
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NISSAN NAVARA 2006: RE: STALLS ON HOT START SINCE FUEL FILTER REPLACED AT 60,000KMS *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I also have a Navara D40 diesel. It has been doing this since day one in December 06. It is worse when the tank is low. It has no guts down low and surges on cruising pedal between around 1600 and 2100rpm. I have towed my caravan with it and it was embarrassing. The worst tow vehicle I have had so far. |
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| POSTED BY: P TUTT - PERTH, WA, AUS, 25/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "NISSAN NAVARA D22 2006: STALLS ON HOT START SINCE FUEL FILTER REPLACED AT 60,000KMS - Since replacing my fuel filter I have been experiencing stalling due to air in fuel system. I have primed the pump as recommended. I have replaced the filter twice since and I am still having same problem. This only happens when starting the car hot. I have checked the drain at bottom of filter (Ryco) and this seems OK. Please help me. I hear that these cars are referred to as hand-grenades, please prove this wrong." POSTED BY: JUSTIN MURRAY - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS 15/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== If you suspect air is getting into the system, there is an old method to prove or disprove it. "Carefully" apply pressure to the fuel tank via the filler neck. I repeat "carefully" only a few psi required. If you indeed do have a system leak upstream of the pump you should now have a stain somewhere along the line or at a fitting. "Note" When releasing the pressure, do it slowly as fuel can surge back up the filler neck if full enough. POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW 29/12/2007 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA BERTONE COUPE 2003: RE: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST! *THANKS* |
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ISSUE: |
Thanks Rob we have an Astra Bertone Coupe 2003. Great description every step exactly as you described and it fixed my problem. Caught on Xmas eve with minimal tools and a stressed wife some makeshift tools a leatherman and your post saved the day. |
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| POSTED BY: BRIAN LAWRENCE - AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND, 25/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2000: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST! - I have a TS 2000 Astra and the key kept getting jammed. It won’t turn. It happened about two years ago and cost $300 from memory. I have searched /googled every site in the world or so it seems on this problem. Seems there are Many Astra owners with this problem. Today - fixed it ... and it didn’t cost a penny. Step 1. Pop off the front top cover immediately behind the steering wheel. The one which the indicator and wipers stalks go through. Step 2. Get a star (like an allen key) key and undo one screw from underneath, and two on the top sides (Revealed after step 1). Step 3. Depress the latch on the side of the wiper stalk assy and slide out the whole assy from the slot, towards you. Step 4. Get a small nail or very small screw driver and poke it into the small hole revealed by removing the wiper assy. Step 5. Put your key into the gin and while holding the nail in the small hole (pressing inwards) pull the whole barrel assy out. Easy! (There's a small spring loaded 'catch' on the barrel which locks it inside the steering column. Step 6. Look at the opp end of the barrel to the key and see a small pin which rotates when the key is turned. The last position of this pin, when you remove the key from the barrel is where the problem lies. There's a small 'ramp' inside the barrel which you can see. It will be burred and pitted from use. (and a 'sharp' end on the pin. Steel pin and soft metal barrel) Step 7. Use a small file to smooth the metal ramp. Step 8. Rotate the key all the way "on". Depress the Pin in slightly (against a spring) so you can rotate the barrel to the end and the pin will pop out. (Don’t Lose It, or the small spring inside the hole the pin came out of!) Step 9. File the fat end of the pin to look rounded, not flat. This makes it easier to ride up the ramp and prevent damaging the *hit metal ramp again. Step 10 Reinstall the pin and rotate the key so the pin can’t fly out. Step 11. Put a small amt of grease on the pin and work with the key backwards and forwards to ensure it is working OK. Step 12. Hold the spring catch (Step 5) down with a small screwdriver and reinsert the barrel. It can only go back in One Way! Trial and error will find it! Step 13. Reverse assemble the stalks, covers etc. Saved around $140 in parts. Good luck " POSTED BY: ROB ADAMS - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 3/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have a VY sedan Holden and its doing the same. I had a price to fix it of $220.00. And they said it was not covered under warranty but the car is only 3 years old and still under warranty. I will try your method first thanks. POSTED BY: JASON - ADELAIDE, SA 15/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Thanks Rob, will give this a go. I was gearing myself up to buy a new lock at vast expense! Thanks for the tip and Happy Christmas. Jon P POSTED BY: JON PIPPARD - WOY WOY, NSW 19/12/2007 |
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HONDA ACCORD EURO 2007: ACCORD EURO RATTLES *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
My near new 20,000 klm Euro Luxury has rattles in both doors and the dash around the glove box and radio. They are not minor, they send you crazy. They started from day one and the dealer had a couple of attempts and at 10,000 klm they then advised that any further work on rattles would be charged under Honda policy on rattles. I asked the dealer service manager if there were issues with other Euros, he said none that he knew of. Oh yeah sure. |
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| POSTED BY: GARRY BER - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 24/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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TOYOTA PRADO GRANDE 2006: RE: CLUNK FROM DRIVE TRAIN / SLIP JOINT *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I have 11/06 5 speed auto d4d Prado Grande that clunks in the gearbox at standstill. Toyota says no problem it’s normal. Family all have Toyota 4wds and all say something is not right. |
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| POSTED BY: ANDREW FIELD - GOLD COAST, QLD, AUS, 24/12/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "TOYOTA PRADO GXL 2004: CLUNK FROM DRIVE TRAIN / SLIP JOINT - From day one I have experienced a clunking noise from the drive train / slip joint each time the vehicle is stopped and started. Toyota have carried out a modification per technical newsflash TNF 12/07 and also charged me $100.00 towards labour even though I have complained from day one about this problem. This quick fix has not worked and the problem is still there. Please advise as to how do I go about to escalate this problem. There are many other customers out there with the same problem and Toyota seems to be ignoring the problem. Many Thanks Sheldon - I purchased used Prado with only 16,000 kms on the clock + original warranty and extended warranty." POSTED BY: SHELDON ADEN - PERTH, WA, AUS 15/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== They need to pull the tailshaft apart and apply some special stuff (gold in colour), forget the name of it but will try and find out. It stops the spline from binding up. Then when they put back together they need to pump in heaps of grease and the grease needs to be done about every 5000k to stop it happening again. Yes it is common and even on the older shape 97/02 models do it. I have 97 model and it does it as well but stops as soon as I grease it back up again. Won’t do any harm just annoying. Hope this helps you out. Steve POSTED BY: STEPHEN MILLER - PENRITH, NSW, AUS 17/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Andrew, Call Driveline Services in Archerfield and ask them if they have had any problems with these drivelines as they are experts in tailshafts. Then please post a reply back here. Good Luck, Mark POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC 25/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, Cannot provide much info myself but as a Proud Prado Owner I found the following website very helpful. Go to prado.com All Australian and a great bunch of helpful people. POSTED BY: TERRY - BRISBANE, QLD 28/12/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Hi I know what the clunk is, it is a manufacturers fault. It normally starts to happen around 80 to 100,000ks. It is your computer starting to burn out. It affects your transmission along with everything else. Cost of repairs is 4500 to $6000. Toyota has not recalled the RAV4s because it happens after the warranty has expired which is around 80,000ks. POSTED BY: LEIGH - BRISBANE, QLD 5/2/2008 |
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