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| COMPLAINTS
CORNER |
complaints.motorsm.com |
| "Complaints Corner" provides an online billboard to publicize problems or complaints about your car or poor after-sales support from dealerships and manufacturers. Good news about exceptional customer service etc. will also be published. N.B. MotorSM is not responsible nor endorse views expressed by contributors. | |
| SEPT 2007 - COMPLAINTS CORNER 2007: 11/07 10/07 9/07 8/07 7/07 6/06 5/07 4/07 3/07 2/07 1/07 2006 |
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FORD TERRITORY 2004: RE: FORD TERRITORY 2004: MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
There is an issue with certain Falcon rear brake hoses (lines), but to date we have not had any issues with Territory. Perhaps a foreign object had struck the hose to cause the damage. Anyway it was good that the dealer replaced it without issue. |
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| POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS, 30/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD TERRITORY 2004: MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE - In January this year I had major brake failure in my Territory when a brake line sheared off, was fixed with no issue from Ford. Then 12 weeks ago I had major engine failure. The oil filter was blown apart causing internal damage. The car was only driven a short distance once this happened and then tilt trayed to Ford. They will not repair the problem even though the vehicle was under new car warranty, because I missed the 40000 service by 4000klm. They initially had an issue with the 60000 service (the car had 68000 when the problem occurred) and no mention of the 40000 service issue. Once it was proven the 60000 service was done within their limits, was disputed due to a typo, they then had an issue with the 40000 service. I missed it by 4000 klm, so beware if you miss your Ford service by 4000klm your engine will fail. I have a mate with an old ED Falcon. He drives it round with 2 litres of oil all the time and a head full of chemi weld and it still goes great, yet I miss my service by 4000klm and my engine fails? So don’t ever buy a Ford." POSTED BY: MARK FIELD - WOLLONGONG, NSW, AUS 24/09/2007 ========== REPLY ========== It could have been a faulty filter as it can happen and I have heard of this happening to other cars so you’re not the only one. Yes they can be **** when you miss a service especially by a few thousand kms. By missing your car by 4000 kms shouldn’t make a difference. I know people who has Ford who missed there’s by 20,000 kms naughty. However I do mine on the dot. I don’t think that was Ford's fault because of the filter. I know it is a pain in the **** when you have to spend 1000 dollars or more or even less. The brakes can be a problem because due to the lining they get hot. They tend to wear more especially when going up and down hills however haven’t heard of the brakes shearing off. It's not the car's fault. It either the dodgy Ford service you are getting or was it the filter, but I don’t think it was the car. Don’t dam them for good and say I won’t buy another one. I will probably keep on buying them till the day I die! I like them so much. I wish you all the best and maybe try a different Ford service and built a good relation ship with them! POSTED BY: CHRIS ANDERSON - MARYBOROUGH, QLD 26/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== So it's the manufacturer’s fault that you don't service the vehicle? The service books are there for a reason champ. No, don't ever buy a Ford again; actually, don't ever buy any car again, as obviously you have trouble understanding the words “scheduled maintenance". POSTED BY: JOHN SMITH - LOCATION NOT SUPPLIED 26/9/2007 |
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FORD FAIRLANE BA G220 2004: STALLING WHEN IDLING, PLUS PINGING *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi, I have the following problems with my G220 (V8) Fairlane: |
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| POSTED BY: GREG SULLIVAN - RYDE, NSW, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Please note that the dealer is still helping me, although progress is slow. I am going through the Ford Customer Response Centre, and at the moment the dealer is waiting for advice from Ford as to how to proceed. So please don't think that I have reached a complete dead end with my dealer - that's not the case. In the meantime though I'd really appreciate any help/advice from others. Also, note that the pinging problem has actually been present for a long time, but I've never been sure until recently that it was in fact pinging (the fact that I can definitely notice an improvement when using premium fuel does, I believe, means that it is almost certainly pre-detonation). Greg. POSTED BY: GREG - RYDE, NSW - AUS 30 SEP 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I suggest you run Premium. We have had many complain of the higher price then tell us they get better economy from it. Do a comparison for yourself. Changing or regapping the plugs have yielded some improvement. Remapping can be very expensive and often leads down a path of more problems down the track. As your system learns from your driving habits and the fuel used, it may take some time for re-learning to complete. This can be sped up by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. You mentioned firstly that no codes were ever extracted by the dealer; this can be frustrating sometimes as an educated guess is the only option. Don't condemn them for trying to work it out for you. (As much as customers don’t think, we would rather fix your car and not have you back complaining of the same fault. Many technicians end up with an unhappy boss on their back and at times lose any bonus if they get a comeback). We would rather have your car fixed and you happy, we get enough grief anyway in our line of work. You later mentioned that "their test equipment showed that the crankshaft sensor was suspect" was this the result of a code? Or did they perform further tests in an effort to solve your problem? Perform a wiggle test at all engine bay connections (motor running, look for a change in characteristics) especially the connections behind the right headlamp area. Has a fuel sample been taken? (Very common problem, bad fuel/water, rusts fuel rails) I have had several V8s with ignition lead concerns. Check for arching at the aluminium covers at the plug ends (particularly at the rear right). Also check around the ignition coil pack for arching. If there is any oily/dirty build up on them clean it off. I generally like to remove the coil pack and wash it thoroughly then air blow it dry (this shows up any hairline cracks). Looking around the motor in the dark will sometimes help to find arching leads etc also. Hope this is of help Greg. POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS 30 SEP 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Yes, I am running on premium in order to protect my engine in its current state as much as possible. And yes, the economy is better, however I have done tests (albeit with a different car) and the improvement in economy may well not enough to compensate for the difference in price. Aside from economy, though, my engine is specified to run properly on standard 91 RON ULP, so I should *not* have to use premium fuel to stop the pinging (and it doesn't stop it altogether anyway - not by any means) Regarding the plugs, this Ford Technical Service bulletin looks like it could very well be relevant: http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/fulltext/show_article.php?tsb=06-3-3 As far as I know, that's the same engine. I will take this up with my dealer and Ford. The plugs mentioned in that TSB are in fact the colder plugs which I mentioned in my original post. Very interesting! Re: the crankshaft sensor, I believe the dealer was instructed by Ford to perform a special test of the sensor. They mentioned something about the wavelengths being a bit out. They said the signals were better with the new sensor. But, I did not notice any improvement. Yes, at least one fuel sample has been taken - it was quite a while ago though. Re: the ignition leads and coil pack - I just want to make sure we are talking about the same engine before we proceed on that: my car, to the best of my knowledge, does not have a coil pack - it has the coils actually on the plugs. (known as COP ignition). So, do you mean "COP" when you refer to the Coil Pack? (I have noticed that is common for the two terms to be used interchangeably) Thanks for all the info - much appreciated. POSTED BY: GREG - RYDE, NSW - AUS 1 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Well, I've replaced the spark plugs with the colder type, but unfortunately it hasn't made the slightest difference - it still pings in the same manner. POSTED BY: GREG - RYDE, NSW - AUS 5 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have essentially reached a dead end with my dealer and Ford re: the engine cutting out. They said that because a) no error codes are produced, b) the fact that they cannot reproduce the problem, and c) their tests show that nothing is wrong, that they cannot pursue it any further. And to rub salt into the wound, their service advisor actually said that he did not believe me that the engine was cutting out, that I was wasting their time, and to leave them alone. POSTED BY: GREG - RYDE, NSW - AUS 11 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Just thought I'd update this thread with recent developments: The dealer performed an upper engine clean, using some "new cleaning fluid". This actually made quite an improvement - only very light and occasional pinging on 95 RON petrol. I decided I could live with it like this, and decided to call it quits at that stage. Unfortunately, the pinging came back to roughly the same degree as before, a few months down the track. Maybe not quite as bad, but enough to bother me again. Given that the cleaning had seemed to help, I tried an off the shelf petrol additive (Nulon Total Fuel System Cleaner). This did make some improvement I think, however the improvement seemed to kick in 1 or 2 tanks after the initial tank with the additive. Not sure whether that's possible or not but that's what I felt I had observed. There was still some pinging though. I have just had a custom tune performed in the last few days (i.e. a reprogramming of the ECU, on a dyno). Naturally this was done by an independent tuner - not Ford. So far, there has been no pinging whatsoever, and I am running standard ULP. This looks Very promising indeed (although the tune was very expensive!). I suppose if my problem really is due to carbon buildup, then the pinging might come back again, even after this custom tune. I'll just have to take it one step at a time. Greg. POSTED BY: GREG - RYDE, NSW - AUS 6 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Feel your pain with Ford I have G220 with intermittent starting/stalling problem and has now expired warranty also with no codes or resolve from Ford. Forget the **** that recommended hi octane fuel this only masks a major problem as does adjusting timing/re mapping. Sorry bloke you have a problem so do I. Ford half **** mechanics actually suggested re map to me on the sly and when I went into facts about carbon detonation, computer/timing issues, 02 sensor issues, cold start systems, issues it all got too hard. The great technicians turned to water and all they could say is without a fault code we can’t fix it. Ford employs a mechanic who can think or allow him to actually replace a part. All they are is parts fitters and service labourers. I am a mechanic by trade and cannot believe that even after not being in the trade for 8 years Ford’s best don’t even know how an EMS works but I can? I have taken mine into my own hands now as I have no trust and will sort in consumer commission. I forgot to mention they found heaps of parts they felt May fix problem after warranty expired but duly noted for later reference in commission. Anyway had my vent try O2 or knock sensor, cheap to replace. Wouldn’t recommend adjusting factory timing as not fixing problem and if EMS working properly engine will Never ping. POSTED BY: ADAM - NEWCASTLE, NSW - AUS 8 APR 2009 |
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KIA RIO 2002: TRUSCOTTS TOYOTA - KIA RIO 2002 BOUGHT THREE MONTHS *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
I've got a Kia horror story. Three months ago I bought a KIA 2002 Rio from Truscotts Toyota at Five Dock. I was given a three month dealer warranty and a service warranty which is up to 2010. |
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| POSTED BY: VANIA IUSTON - SYNDEY, NSW, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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FORD LASER KE HATCH 1989: GREAT CAR *GOOD NEWS* |
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ISSUE: |
My wife bought brand new in 1989 an auto, carby model KE Laser GL (no power steering). It has been serviced regularly, had the timing chain and front CV boots replaced and has done 150,000 K's since with no repairs other than the distributor module. |
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| POSTED BY: PETER FREDERICK - MELBOURNE, VIC, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Ford didn’t make it, Mazda did, that’s why it’s good. Ford can’t and still don’t make cars like that. POSTED BY: ANDREW - SYDNEY, NSW 1/10/2007 ========== REPLY ========== These are good cars it is a shame Ford cannot make them like my 87 Meteor - still goes strong. My 97 EL traded on a Mazda Tribute as it started to fall apart. Also Laser are different from the 323, not all parts fit. POSTED BY: DALE ROSE - WYOMING, NSW 22/2/2008 |
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HOLDEN COMMODORE SS 2004: RE: HOLDEN COMMODORE SS 2004: HOLDEN LEMON *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I thought I was the only person being punished for buying the same model SS, apparently not. |
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| POSTED BY: JASON MCANTEE - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN COMMODORE SS 2004: HOLDEN LEMON - Thank god I'm not the only one ... I will definitely never ever buy a Holden if it was the last car left on the planet. I bought my 2004 Holden Commodore SS brand new from Paul Wakling Holden in Cambeltowm. The first visit back had issues with the sunroof not closing booked it in the get a service done as well. All was good until they decided to wash the car without fixing the sunroof first, stupidity at work. The interior was flooded, carpet, seats and already had the mouldy smell. Interior was changed car went back sunroof worked for about 10 minutes before failing again. Changed Holden dealers after that experience. Got the sunroof fixed. Towards the end of the warranty period the car decided to start doing some weird things, mostly electrical: 1. Auto headlights fail to turn off when locking 2. Radio has a mind off its own 3. Steering wheel buttons reverse operation and swap functions 4. Rear door not unlocking - fixed 5. Fuel surging - problem not located 6. Unexpected stalling when doing u-turns 5+ attempts required to start car 7. Vehicle unable to start - current issue (fuel pump suspected) 8. Unable to gain entry to car after battery died." POSTED BY: PETAR PAVLOVIC - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 17/09/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I also have a SS VX which turns itself off during u turns and left/right turns. Could you tell me if you have had it fixed or diagnosed? Thanks. POSTED BY: BLY - BRISBANE, QLD 29/10/2007 |
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HOLDEN COMMODORE VS EXECUTIVE 1996: CRANK ANGLE SENSOR ? *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
In warm weather engine cuts out - have had a new water pump, new radiator, new thermostat + two new crank angle sensor’s but still keeps happening. |
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| POSTED BY: MARGARET LAKE - NEWLANDS ARM, VIC, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Try swapping around relays in engine bay. Headlamp relays are the same as engine control, EFI & starter, suggest start with the engine control relay. POSTED BY: JACK SMITH - COUNTRY SA, SA AUS 4/10/2007 ========== REPLY ========== The reason your car cuts out in warm weather is it’s hot. Cool it down ... gives it an ice cream. Place it on the intake manifold. Your car will thank you for it. Now seriously the crank angle sensor when it gets hot will cause this problem. If you experience the issue pour water on the sensor. This will cool it down and allow the car to start. If the water fizzes - replace the sensor. POSTED BY: ADAM - LOCATION/EMAIL NOT SUPPLIED 31/10/2007 |
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SUBARU LIBERTY GT 2007: COMPREHENSIVE 116 POINT CHECK - DONT TRUST IT! *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
If you think a tick on the "windscreen" check box on Subaru's 116 point check sheet means not a single crack or chip on the windscreen then like me you are dead wrong! After buying a 6 month old Liberty GT from a Western Sydney Subaru Dealership (initially it was a demonstration car, then a managers car and finally a used car- but that's another story). I did not realise there was a one cent piece size stone chip on the windscreen passenger side. I did not bother to do a proper inspection of the car since all the boxes where ticked on the "Comprehensive 116 Point Check" sheet with the car, so I was angry at discovering the chip a few days later. |
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| POSTED BY: GREG PARAAN - CRANEBROOK, NSW, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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TOYOTA COROLLA 2006: RPM AT HIGH SPEEDS AND MANUAL SHIFT GEAR *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I own a manual Toyota Corolla 2006 model and it worries me that at speeds averaging 110 km/h the rpm reading average 4000 while on the model of automatic shift it averages 2500 - 3900 rpm. Still on that I'm having slight problems changing gears regardless of the clutch fully depressed as the gears have a small grinding problem especially when changing from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 or doing a reversal of these gears (change down). |
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| POSTED BY: JOHNSON B - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 29/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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TOYOTA HILUX 3.0L DSL 05-07 2005: INJECTOR PUMP FAILURE DUE TO MINISCULE IN TANK FILTER GAUZE *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
Pump & Injectors have failed due to a blockage at the tiny intank filter gauze. |
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| POSTED BY: ROD MARRIAGE - GLADSTONE, QLD, AUS, 28/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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FORD FALCON BA 0: RE: A FEW COMMON PROBLEMS CAN BE SOLVED IF YOU TELL THE MECHANIC WHAT TO DO *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi Sara |
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| POSTED BY: ROBERT DEWAR - GOLD COAST, QLD, AUS, 28/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "I am a mechanic only a 4th year but soon to be qualified. And to add to it I am a female. I worked in several places and worked on a whole wide range of cars, and I've noticed a lot of complaints about the BA Falcons in this forum. See if I can cover up your issues with the way I solve all the BA customers that I dealt with in my past and present and never ever had a come back. First of all, Ford made an OK vehicle ... but Holden is no better either. There are faults that need looking at and the vehicle needs a lot of TLC from the day you buy the car. Common quick fault are: - Bonnet cable always breaks at the lever - Power Steering pump high pressure line always leaks - Hand brake barely ever works - Constant brake shudder - Poor Idle - DIFF! I think I missed a couple of things, but those are the most common ones that come into my work with the common problems and wander "why" at such a low mileage? Well I don't know, but it's not your fault it's the "makers" fault. Every single one of them have the same problem over and over. The bonnet cable will always be a problem because the lever is connected to the fuse box which is the most stupid thing I have ever seen in my life. I have had to replace fuse boxes just to fix the damn thing. Power Steering pump leaks ... yeah bad too. The high pressure line from the pump out leaks at the thread. You need to cut the top of the line off and put a new thread in (a new fitting) and there will never be a problem again. If it is done properly. And the plastic reservoir leaks quite often so that's a problem as well because in that case now you have to replace the whole pump. Hand brake not working? well ... that's an everyday thing. I can do it with my eyes shut. A lot of complaints are that the "dealerships" or "garages" never adjust the hand brakes and the customers get angry because the hand brake comes up to your chin and doesn't pull up the car at all. Easy fix. Take it back to them, tell them to adjust the hand brake at the rear brakes by taking off the wheel, taking the calipers off and the rotor, and adjust it at the hand brake adjuster. THEN adjust it under the car at the hand brake cable. A lot of people say "the hand brake should pull up at 6 clicks" yes that's true, but with Fords best it works and won't wear off your hand brake shoes if its no more than 4 clicks. But this has to be done by a mechanic that isn't stupid and wants to get rid of you quick. Brake shudder. I have had to replace a lot of rotors already. But due to the fact that the owners of the vehicles put it off for so long and then try to blame us for the problem 6 months later. Not good. Pads wear off a fair between now and 6 months. And it all always depends on the heavy driver's foot. If there's a brake shudder, which is common, tell your mechanic if he's going to replace your pads. Do Not Use "RDA" brand pads. They are Shocking! Only use "BENDIX". They are of a softer material and will not grave into your rotor as much as RDA's do. Replace your pads with Bendix Pads and machine off your rotors as little as possible. And if you have huge grooves in your rotors then I guess a replacement is necessary. Then let me advise you to ask the mechanic to take a look at the brake fluid and replace it if necessary. Brake fluid should never be black, brown, gluggly or smelly. Because it will make your brakes fail because under such heat it absorbs water and water cannot be compressed which is what we Don't need because we are "compressing the pedal to activate the brakes". If water is present it won't work. And the glugginess clogs off valves in the brake master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders (which is only in drum brake) and your brakes will feel **** and are hazardous. Poor idle. I've noticed most of the "motorcraft" ignition leads crossfire so there's your problem. Get the spark plugs checked and change them if needed and change the leads into BOSH leads. NOT "Eagle"! They crossfire ASAP! So then there's the "Throttle positioning sensor" that fails so get that looked at. and also REQUEST a "throttle body and IAC Valve clean out" which is a problem if they aren't because your motor needs fresh clean air to run properly, instead its getting carboned up in the air intake. And usually in this case when you use your Air conditioning the IAC Valve gets sticky from the carbon, and the motor idles real bad or it'll stall. Even if you have Power Steering in any vehicle and are turning or doing a "U" turn your car idles bad or stalls it's because of your IAC valve most of the time. So again I advise you to get your throttle body and IAC valve cleaned every service. And let me remind you I mean every service and that's EVERY 5,000km! Not every 15,000 as Ford Log book says. That's ridiculous. I've had customers replace their diffs because of that **** the diff oil was so badly worn! So Diff oil Must be Replaced as soon as you read this if you own a BA (Of course if you've never had it replaced). Sorry about my grammar, I hope it's been some help." POSTED BY: SARA SEROKA - BRISBANE, QLD 5/04/2007 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA TWIN TOP 2007: RE: DOES ANYONE HAVE AN ASTRA TWINTOP? THINKING OF BUYING ONE *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
I own a Twin Top, I have had it a month now. The only reason I got it was because my Astra Convertible soft top was a complete lemon & my dealer done me a non-disclosed trade-in on soft top. The twin tops are made in the same factory as the soft tops & look how well they went with those NOT. |
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| POSTED BY: M PETERSON - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 28/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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"Me too - I’m looking into buying a Twin Top. They look great have spoken to a mechanic friend that works at Holden. He did say the soft tops had problems but these are great cars. Debbie" POSTED BY: DEBBIE - MILPERRA, NSW, AUS 27/09/2007 ========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "Hi, Does anyone have any comments or advice on the new Holden Astra TwinTop? I'm thinking of buying it and would really appreciate any comments, don't want to end up with another lemon. Cheers" POSTED BY: PATTY TAN - SYDNEY, NSW 30/04/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have heard great reports about the twin top ... good fuel econ etc. It's funny to hear people who are not happy with the Holden product who have replaced their cars with another Holden? I guess you will get people who are never happy! POSTED BY: RIZZO JONES - SYDNEY, NSW 28/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== An update on my new Twin Top. At just 3000km the roof has started to play up. I was telling a friend that so far I have had no problems with this Astra Convertible unlike my soft top piece of ****. I went to show her the roof going down in a busy shopping centre & it would not go down & got stuck, it took 10 minutes to get it to work properly. She could not believe that I was now having problems with another Holden Astra Convertible. I took it in to my dealer, but of course nothing could be found wrong with it. It took 12 months with my last one for them to finally have to replace the whole roof & that was after I got Consumer Affairs involved. Holden better pray that nothing else goes wrong with this one, otherwise the follow up story will not help Holden's sales on their new Convertible. To summarise over 38k was spent trying to fix my last Holden Astra Convertible & it still needed another 7k of repairs before Holden sent it back to Melbourne. POSTED BY: MICHELLE - BRISBANE, QLD 22/10/2007 |
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KIA CARNIVAL 2003: FURIOUS KIA OWNER *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
Just want to cry or see Kia and its dealerships out of business. Would like to see a class action formed and a register at fair-trading or somewhere else kept so all these problems many of us are having or have had are logged and addressed. |
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| POSTED BY: KATHRYN YUEN - HURSTVILLE GROVE, NSW, AUS, 27/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== I hear you! I've got a Kia horror story. Three months ago I bought a KIA 2002 Rio from Truscotts Toyota at Five Dock. I was given a three month dealer warranty and a service warranty which is up to 2010. I started having problems with it just before the dealer warranty ran out. The car keeps on stalling. The service warranty required me to take the car if there were any problems, to Toyota Truscotts repair centre at Croydon. I booked it in for a day and then was told they couldn't find a problem with it and had cleaned out the throttle system. I picked up the car, got home and it died in my driveway. I phoned the repairer up straight away and they were incredulous and told me to bring it in the morning if it'll run and if not they would organise a tow. The next morning I took it back to the mechanic and it died on the way. I managed to restart it. Now I get told that they have to book it in to KIA (duh why they do that in the first place). KIA is going to overhaul the whole car (they can't tell me how long it will take). In the meantime I have spoken to the dealer I bought the car from and he has washed his hands of the whole deal. We need a car as my father is elderly and not in the best of health and we've ended up with a lemon that is sitting in the repair shop, with my insurance policy coming up for a renewal for a car I can't drive. Do Not Buy A Kia And Do Not Buy Anything From Truscotts Toyota Five Dock. They are **** POSTED BY: VANIA - FIVE DOCK, NSW 29/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== St George and Sutherland Leader want to do a story on Kia Carnival motor vehicles, their owners and their well known engine problems and Kia’s gross **** of consumers. Is there anyone out there that would like to be involved? We are mostly families and carers, a vulnerable group in the community that deserve a fairer deal. Kia should not be selling these vehicles in the first place! Please contact me immediately. POSTED BY: ALICIA - HURSTVILLE, NSW, AUS 2/10/2007 |
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TOYOTA RAV4 2001: TRANSMISSION FAILS ON 6 YEAR OLD CAR *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
After 6 years, and 90,000 kilometres of having my 2001 RAV4 regularly serviced by the dealer at considerable expense, the ECU (transmission computer) has faulted and caused "transmission burning clutches and contaminating internals". The repair has been quoted at $7000.00. |
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| POSTED BY: CORRINE MARSHALL - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 27/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Just went through exactly the same problem. Our repair bill was just under $8000. I have a five door 2002 RAV4 automatic cruiser. First the car was slipping in gears. It was not a gradual thing eihter ... it just suddenly failed. Upon inspection the clutches were burnt out. The gear box was repaired and it flamed another box. I had the computer checked by Toyota and an independent specialist and no fault codes etc. indicated a problem. In the end a new computer was put in, problem solved! Basically the ECU malfunctioned causing the gear box clutches to burn out. The ECU didn't even indicate any fault codes or go into the safe mode like they are suppose to. Gear box had to come out twice and so did the engine. I got a 24 month warranty on repairs ... make sure you do as well. Will be selling **** before that though! I was lucky that the workshop I go through is owned by a friend and was not charged for the engine coming out 2 and a half times. POSTED BY: SCOTT - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 24 DEC 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had the same problem. Cost of repairs 4500 to $6000. I have a RAV4 2002 114.000ks. It will take 2 weeks to repair then sell. POSTED BY: LEIGH - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS 5 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2001 Rav4. I took my car to the dealer for the required maintenance as I always do. I asked them to check my transmission because my car was slipping into 2nd gear. I was told that I now need an ECU because the computer is not telling the car to change gears the way it is supposed to. I see that this is a common problem, I was quoted $1500.00 for the replacement. It sounds like I need to get rid of my car. POSTED BY: ADRIAN - GA, USA 20 FEB 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2002 Rav4. Same problem. The gearbox started slipping due to the computer failure, and I have been told the repair bill will be $6500. I am not sure what to do, as I will not be getting the money back when I try to sell the car. POSTED BY: PAUL GRUNDY - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 4 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi, did you get the ECM/ECU recalibrated according to the TSB issued in March of 2006? POSTED BY: CHRIS - VANCOUVER, BC - CANADA 8 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Please contact me re 2002 Rav4 4 transmission problems. I am part of 23 people who have gotten replies from that are gathering information for a class action suit on this problem. POSTED BY: JOANNE MOORE - FRANKLIN, USA 31 MAR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I would like to get more information about the class action suit. I am starting the debacle that I see is going to get very costly... POSTED BY: BEVERLY TOOKEY - CARY, NC - USA 15 APR 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I bought my 2002 RAV4 in November of 2006. The check engine light stayed on constantly. I was told it was an O2 sensor and that it would take $300 to fix but that it did not affect the car's performance. In February I received a notice that I should take the vehicle to the dealer to have a recall taken care of, which I did. The check engine light went off but I started having transmission problems. I took it to the dealer and they charged me $150 to check it out. They said I needed a new computer ($1,300). I then took it to a transmission specialist to check out ($85.00). He said it was not my transmission but the computer (EMC). I started researching and found out about this problem being not just mine. Being a single mother with two children and on a very tight budget, this is my only transportation, which I do not consider safe until this gets fixed. I was having this shifting problem in a very busy intersection and was very upset with the fact that Toyota would not stand behind their product and fix the EMC at no cost to the consumer. POSTED BY: KRYSTIE DUNN - MOBILE, AL - USA 26 JUN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Having same problems - have to replace the computer in mine but will hold onto the bad one just in case Toyota ever decides to step up and back their product. Please let me know if anything develops. POSTED BY: JAMES THAMES - MARIETTA, GEORGIA - USA 30 JULY 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Me Too! Same thing just happened to our 2002 Rav4, 5 door. I got up one morning, started to drive to work and the gears started slipping. I took it Straight to the garage and they said the ECU needed replacing... $4000! This has to be some kind of design fault. We simply don't have the money to repair it! I can't tell you how angry I feel about this! POSTED BY: LYNN MORESI - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 1 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== If there is a law suit going on I would like to get the info on it. My Rav4 just started its trip downhill. POSTED BY: GSINGLE381 - MONTGOMERY, AL - USA 5 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just bought a 2001 Rav cruiser auto and the gears were also slipping. This is after 2 **** days of owning it. I took it back to car yard yesterday and it is at the mechanics now while I wait for an answer. I was issued a 3 month warranty but after reading all these comments I now feel like **** and can see it is obviously a common problem! I will keep you posted to see what it ends up being. It has really **** me off. POSTED BY: JODIE B - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 19 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== For those of you being quoted $7-$8k to repair the gearbox, you are being ripped off, get an exchange box." POSTED BY: ROBERT GREGSON - NOWRA, NSW, AUS 21 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2004/5 model Rav4 Cruiser, fully loaded. It has traveled 67,000 km. No problems so far. It is very reliable and quality can be felt when driven. I hope people with the same year model have not faced transmission problems. Seems that Toyota has rectified the problem. Any feedback on my model? POSTED BY: RONEEL KUMAR - PALMERSTON, ACT - AUS 21 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Toyota in Melbourne area has only 2 dealerships that service transmissions and they could not even look at my car for 3 weeks then it was going to take 6-8 weeks for them to repair, what a disappointment in Toyota. Luckily I found another transmission expert to fix it and had it back in a week! Saving thousands in rental car fees! If you have a 2001 RAV4 get it rid of it before this happens. By the way Toyota quoted me $6000.00 to fix it and I would be without the car for almost 3 months, what a deal! POSTED BY: DANA - PORT MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 22 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== TOYOTA RAV 4 2001 1007,000 KM. ECU - TRANSMISSION ISSUES - I have had the same issues with the ECU as you all manifesting with the transmission suddenly slipping, literally an overnight phenomenon. I had the car checked by usual mechanic whith handheld computer diagnostics, no fault codes; however symptoms still there so stopped driving the car and started to ring around to inform myself. The answers came back thick and fast, it was as if every one could diagnose the problem without even seeing the car. They literally told me what year and model car I had after briefly describing the problems. "Change the ECU ($1700- $2100) and if you are lucky that may fix the problem, if unlucky and you drove the car without noticing in time the transmission will need replacing ($3500 -7500)" was the standard reply. After reading all the posts on web about this and speaking to dozens of independent transmission workshop Experts & Mechanics, I have contacted NRMA, Dept of fair trading, and Channel Seven and Nine regarding doing a story on their "Current Affair", & "Today Tonight" programs as there are some massive safety issues related to this situation - my wife & two young children were nearly rammed by other vehicles several times at traffic lights because of transmission suddenly slipping, the media are interested in this ! I have several experts willing to go on record and speak about this issue. Let me know if you want to form a group to bring this issue into public awareness thus encouraging Toyota to take responsibility for their products and stop sweeping this under the carpet. After my local Toyota workshop replaced the ECU ($1682) the vehicle seemed Ok, but as the transmission will not show up any fault code if it is damaged only time will tell! Confidence in the brand Toyota is now at a very low point with me. Before paying my repair bill I contacted Toyota customer relations Sydney / Taren Point / Tel: 02 9710 3333 and made a serious complaint regarding this issue and informed them of my awareness of just how widespread this issue is and how the media is interested in doing a story on this matter (in 2006 these vehicles were recalled in the USA for software upgrade a free service). Anyway they spoke to the dealer, the dealer spoke to the warranty department and lo and behold they came to the party and reduced my repair bill by $800. This is a start however I am convinced that this should be a free recall service and if transmissions are damaged due to a faulty ECU that controls it the transmission is by definition Collateral Damage for which Toyota also should be responsible and prepared to assist their loyal (till now) customers. If you have your car repaired by Toyota you could try to call customer service prior to paying your bill and hopefully this way you too can at least save some money and collectively we will eventually encourage Toyota to adjust their denial strategy about this matter. Please raise awareness about this issue & tell everyone you know! POSTED BY: RICKY STRONG - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 28 SEP 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had a similar failure. Cost of repair still unknown. Is this just manifesting itself because of the age of the car and if so is this going to become a more frequent event I wonder. My local Toyota garage say that this failure is unknown by themselves and Toyota. In fact it is the first one. POSTED BY: MAURICE LUSCOMBE - READING, UNITED KINGDOM 8 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Well I got my car back after 2 weeks after a new computer was put in and a reconditioned gear box. I was so excited, but after another 2 days there was a sound like a helicopter blade going round and round in the 2 front tyres so once again back to the car yard to wait another 4 days and the wheel bearing needed replacing! I am totally over this piece of **** I have had my new car a total of 4 days out of 3 weeks and Toyota have A Lot to answer for I tell you! My local car yard have been fantastic but they have done what needed to be done no questions asked given me a loan car when by law they don’t have to. They are also out of pocket with this being that mine is still under warranty. I also thought of contacting Today Tonight or ACA over this. Some attention has to be brought to this serious Fault with this car! So fingers crossed I get this piece of **** back tomorrow! POSTED BY: JODIE B - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 9 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Me too. Exactly the same thing has just happened to my 2002 3 door Rav Cruiser at 65,000 K and I've been quoted $6000 for repairs to the transmission and ECU. It too has been regularly serviced and only driven on surfaced roads. As soon as I was told about it I googled the problem and found pages and pages of complaints in the USA as well as all the Australian ones here. I will approach Toyota Customer Service on Monday as a start, but clearly we can have more effect if we work together. I would like to be part of any campaign or group action to get Toyota to take some responsibility for this. I will post feedback on this site. POSTED BY: ANDREA STERN - COOGEE, NSW - AUS 12 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have a question, is the shifting problem only in automatic 2002 Rav4 's or in the 5 speed manual too? Let me know thanks, Tasha POSTED BY: TASHA - PETERBOROUGH ONTARIO - CANADA 23 OCT 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Andrea I keep getting angrier and angrier each time I read this complaint forum! I can’t believe the exact same thing keeps happening with all of these cars. Clearly it is a major fault which the customer is paying for! Just wanted to know if you had any luck contacting Toyota? Cheers, Jodie POSTED BY: JODIE - NOWRA, NSW - AUS 12 NOV 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Is this only a problem with automatics? I'm considering buying a manual 2001 or 2000. But the one I was going to look at this weekend ia an auto. Will steer clear. I am assuming these are all auto's having this problem. Look forward to advice. POSTED BY: MICHELLE - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 13 NOV 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I have just had the same problem with my 2002 RAV4 98,000kms which I have had from new. Without any warning the auto transmission started jolting badly when put into reverse and then two days later the car was slipping gears when I was driving to work. I had it towed to my auto transmission specialist and he said this is a very common problem with the RAV4 at approx 100,000kms - he has just repaired 6 in the past few months. My ECU needs replacing and I won’t know until this is done as to whether I also will need to have the clutch replaced. Total cost $1,000 for the ECU and $2800 if it is the clutch. I hope this is the end of this! My car has always been serviced at Toyota and they never warned me about this problem. Not happy! POSTED BY: D BOYLE - CROYDON, VIC - AUS 21 JAN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I am interested in the class action suit against Toyota for the ECM problem on the RAV4. I have went through the same sort of headaches that others have mentioned on this thread. Thanks, POSTED BY: GEORGE BATES - SPARTA, NJ - USA 11 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hello everyone, I am concerned about our 2002 RAV4 automatic transmission. It has 112,000k on the clock and full service history no hard work, wife’s car bitumen roads only. I pulled the transmission dipstick to check it and discovered the transmission oil is burnt and smells as well. No apparent operational error in the drivability of the car as yet. What I have found is a technical service bulletin from overseas from Toyota, please read TC002-06 you can search for this on Google. For the factory to put out a bulletin there has to be serious issues with the transmission and therefore the potentially unsafe operation of the car in heavy traffic conditions. Please be wary of your gearboxes and treat it like gold very carefully! This bulletin was issued around March 2006 and it applies to all 2001 - 2003 Rav4 Autos and it also specifies that the electrics of the car are to blame i.e. the computer. Also specifies a warranty period of 96 months or 80,000 miles, that equals 96 months or 128,744km that’s very generous overseas. So where do we stand in Australia as our car is 78 months old and 112,000k? POSTED BY: GARRY - HOBART, TAS - AUS 15 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I have a similar tale with our 2002 Rav4 with 67000km on the clock. ECM went kaput damaging the auto trans and planetary gear set. Spoke with a guy at ‘customer experience centre’ on 1800 252 097 and oh what an experience! Certainly was not customer care. He, **** basically said if you had gone to a Toyota dealership they may have been able to help. It turned out it would have had to have been a particular type of dealer but hey I’m only an ex Toyota customer. So find out the hard way. Anyway after I mentioned the complaints websites here and America and the document TC 002-06 he suddenly knew enough to say the American model had totally different bits in yadda yadda but no problems were apparent in Australia! As I asked to speak with his boss he refused and said that he had complete authority in managing my customer expectations! So no joy there. I’ve contacted the state Toyota office and await their call back. It would seem that from the website there are sufficient complaints to have elicited some sort of company response to them because if America can issue some sort of remedy surely Australia could too? What has been your progress? I will keep you and the site up to date on mine. Cheers POSTED BY: DAVID - FREMANTLE, WA - AUS 20 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== You can add another unhappy RAV4 owner to your list. Transmission completely **** on 2001 5 door Cruiser, just over $100,000kms. Quoted $7000 to repair and Toyota dealership service department said it was a common problem in the RAV. For such a common problem, why is it so expensive to repair and why hasn’t Toyota been held accountable for this debacle? POSTED BY: AYLEE - BELGRAVE, VIC - AUS 12 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Add another 2002 Toyota Rav4 to the list of faulty/failing transmissions due to a bad ECU. This car is almost 7 years old, and Only has 81k on the odometer. Owned by the same person since new, always serviced by a Toyota technician (me), using genuine parts. It's disgusting really... having to gamble whether a new ECU may or may not fix the problem if found early enough. I've convinced the owner to stop driving it, and trade it in, preferably to a Toyota dealer. Let them deal with a possible $6000 repair. Sadly, they would probably wholesale the vehicle once they find the problem, and let some other sucker deal with it. When it comes to goodwill assistance, Toyota are pathetic! POSTED BY: JOE - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 15 MARCH 2009 ========== REPLY ========== 2002 Toyota Rav4 - 96,000 on the clock. Automatic transmission **** - Have lost first and fourth completely. I have been quoted minimum charge: $3,000 to fix... could be a lot more. It appears this is a common problem amongst the 2001 and 2002 RAV4. POSTED BY: SIMON H - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 24 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Owner of a 2001 Rav Cruiser. Just experienced the same problem. 118000 km on the clock. Car serviced regularly but not by Toyota. The owner of the local dealership just got off the phone to me today and said, "Being an out of warranty claim Toyota don’t look favourably upon the fact that the car was not serviced by Toyota". Wish this had happened 2 months ago before I purchased another car from them. "Bugg**". Have my transmission specialist looking at the issues now and he is dealing with Toyota. His quotes are well under some of the quotes for the ECM and Auto listed here. Suggest everyone gets some extra quotes from their local transmission specialist. Any info I can provide to help anyone or they can provide me would be great. Fingers crossed. Good luck everyone. POSTED BY: ROD RICHARDSON - COFFS HARBOUR, NSW - AUS 31 MAR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Rod, I have done a fair bit of research on this problem and despite my initial research and the evidence that it was a hardware fault in the ECM the local Toyota dealer did their standard tests and decided the fault was in the transmission because no fault codes were found. After discussions with automotive colleagues at local TAFE we did further research that identified that the problem is a tie up in the transmission caused by incorrect activation of the SL1 solenoid. Further research found information on testing the ECM signal to the SL1 solenoid (this controls the hydraulic pressure to engage direct clutch) and the resulting pressure. We have tested my RAV4s signal to the solenoid and have replicated the fault both times we tested the vehicle. The solenoid is a pulse width modulated solenoid that for correct clutch operation receives from the ecm a pulsed 12v signal at a 50% duty cycle this keeps the hydraulic pressure to the clutch exhausted and the clutch disengaged until the third and 4th (over drive) is selected. The ECM signal then drops to 0 volts closing the valve and pressurizing the clutch. The tie up occurs when the pulse width begins to drop below 50% and the pressure begins to build. At about 40% pulse width pressure is around 25psi and just enough to initiate engagement. At 25% pulse width pressure is 55psi and the clutch is fully engaged tying up the transmission. This is clearly seen in the video of the test. No fault codes are reported for this tie up because as far as we can determine in the diagnostics the selection of third when the transmission is supposed to be in first is not reported only 1-2. Another interesting point is that the fault generally occurs after the ECM reaches operation temp (around 28-35 degrees) so make sure the test runs for 45 to 60 minutes. Also as it seems from this test that it is an electronic component failure therefore the fault may exhibit some variations. For example in the first test we measured 55psi while in the second it reached 27psi. These tests were carried out at idle with no load on the drive. Continuous operation in this condition will eventually burn the direct clutch hence the reports of gearboxes being replaced as well as ecms. I have some video footage of the test and other information required to carry out this test. The tools required are simply a scope, pressure gauge and a hoist and takes about 15 minutes to setup so you can probably confirm it is the ECM within an hour. Despite the research and test results achieved Toyota gave me the runaround finally saying the vehicle needed to be sent to Terry Shields Toyota in Parramatta for transmission removal and assessment with no guarantee of warranty. I discussed this with the Terry Shields service manager who agreed that an ECM change would probably solve the problem if the transmission was not damaged. In view of this, Toyota’s attitude to the problem and a reluctance to have a dismantled vehicle in Sydney and a fight with Toyota about the cost of repairs and their share (where Toyota have come to the party in Australia it has only been for part payment). I found a Melbourne company Injectronics who repair ECMs. A quick call to them confirmed they had had some RAV4 ecms in for repair. So the ECM is out (5 min job) and off to Injectronics via their agent Repco. Turn around is a week and cost around $400. I will let you know how I go with the reinstallation and testing for transmission damage. Apparently the advantage of having your ECM repaired is there is no need to program the computer to the car (keys etc) nor relearn the settings for the transmission both of which require the services of the dealer. I am happy to share as much as I know about this problem and expose the slackness of Toyota in accepting they sold a vehicle with a faulty component and providing as much help in sorting out the fault. Regards, Cliff POSTED BY: CLIFF TROOD - TAREE, NSW - AUS 26 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== That is unbelievable Cliff. I've been following this story on this site for quite a while now, which appears to be a worldwide problem. In simple terms, these Rav4s have a fault in the computer that eventually ruins the transmission. Is that correct? Mark POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 27 APR 2009 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2002 Rav4 with 116,000km regularly serviced, and have just started experiencing the same problems as others on this forum. The gearbox just started slipping intermittently with no warning or symptoms. I took it to my mechanic who could not diagnose a problem by applying the scanner as no fault codes were present. I was advised to take the car to an auto transmission specialist. The auto transmission specialist stated that this is a common problem with the Rav 4 at this mileage. He has verified that the problem is the ECU (transmission computer) and informed me to take the car to Toyota for repair as unfortunately he can not give pass on any warranty if he installed the new ECU unit. I have received a quote for the install of a new ECU of $1750 by Toyota. This is before any required repair work on the gearbox. I have contacted Toyota customer relations Sydney / Taren Point / Tel: 02 9710 3333 to inform them of my problem and whether a recall on this is planned. At this stage I have had no luck with their response but will continue to pursue. I will provide more feedback in the future. POSTED BY: CLAUDE - WOLLONGONG, NSW - AUS 23 JUN 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi you will probably have very little luck with Toyota at best they will assess any damage to the gearbox and decide how much you should pay given the cars service history. In the USA they will replace the computer and transmission if needed up to 80,000miles (128,000Km) principally because enough noise was made there for them to do something. After some investigation I found it was much cheaper (USD $400 + freight) and quicker (less than 2 weeks) to send my computer to the USA for repair. It has been 3 months since I reinstalled the computer, a 10 minute job, and all is well. Re the gearbox if you have stopped driving it, good as the direct clutch will eventually become damaged. What happens is 1st gear and 3rd try to engage together due to a faulty ECM signal causing the direct clutch to slip and burn. One way to find out how much damage has been done to the clutch is to check the time it takes to engage drive and reverse. Both should be less than 2 seconds if it is more than 3 seconds on reverse the direct clutch may need replacing. Happy to discuss this with you. POSTED BY: CLIFF - TAREE, NSW - AUS 13 JUL 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Has anyone contacted Today Tonight about these 2002 Toyota Rav 4 "dud" cars? I think that a few of us should because this is a safety issue and it seems the only way that Toyota service centre head office will listen is if the media is involved. Please let me know of your thoughts. There should be a recall to repair these CPU units at the very least! POSTED BY: DEE LAKOS - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 16 JUL 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi Cliff, 2002 100k, slipping and clunking from 1st to 2nd. Did you send you ECU over to the NY crowd (Check Engine) for fixing? What did it cost all up? The local Toyota transmission specialist said they drop the transmission out and open it up - I am guessing they also charge to replace the ECU as any repairs will quickly be undone by a faulty ECU. There's been talk of ACA etc - do you know if anyone has done or is organising anything? Thanks Rick POSTED BY: RICK - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 7 AUG 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Rav4 2002 model. 2 weeks ago I felt like my gear wasn't shifting when accelerating, heard a metal noise going up a steep road. Took it to the garage and was told the same thing, transmission computer needs replacing, $1600 plus. Whether any damage has been done to the transmission, will have to wait and see after the new computer goes in. Moved from Honda to Toyota, what a great mistake. Not buying any Toyota if Toyota does not do something about it POSTED BY: KARU SINNIAH - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS 2 SEP 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Rav4 model 2001 - Have the same problem, at 113000 km the automatic transmission failed leaving me with only the 1st and 2nd gear. Took the car to Toyota service today and received the following quote: Gearbox 8435 Euros ECU 1305 Euros Converter 2800 Euros The car is not worthy so much. The Toyota service say this is a common problem in the Rav4... so why the **** is it so expensive to fix? POSTED BY: ANDREAS - NICOSIA, CYPRUS 9 OCT 2009 |
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LAWS CARS 2007: LEMON LAWS ARE COMING *GOOD NEWS* |
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Good news to all Victorians and hopefully to the rest of Australia soon. The state government in Victoria are planning on bringing in Lemon Laws to protect motoring consumers. Let’s hope the laws are retrospective so that all of you long suffering Kia Carnival, Holden Astra and BA Ford owners can finally get some assistance. |
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| POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 27/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Thanks Mark, I wish they would hurry up. As you know I had a Holden Astra Convertible which had been off the road over 30 days getting repaired in 18 months & Holden had spent over 38k fixing it. It took ACA to do a story on it & even then Holden could not careless. 7 made no contact with me, it was my dealer who traded it in on a new Model Astra Twin Top for an undisclosed sum. But that sum was not cheap & I had to borrow more money to own another Holden. I am still not happy about it & know of many other Astra owners who have gotten nowhere with Holden & have emailed me to let me know they are cutting there losses & selling there Lemons. Nothing will change my opinion of Holden & how they treat there customers & I will be getting rid of this new car very shortly. The only car Holden make in Australia is the Commodore & how many times has that been recalled. The rest of Holden's are cheap imports they don't know how to fix & I have it on good authority were Lemons over in Europe or do not meet there safety standards there, so Holden re-badged & import them to Australia. E.g. Captiva, all owners should look into this car & it's history in Europe, it was re-named & rebadged for a reason. The only reason Holden get away with it is because we have no Lemon Laws. Australia needs to get its act together. Holden is not Australian. I Will Never Buy Another Holden ... And I am certainly not alone on that one. I already have my next car picked out. POSTED BY: MICHELLE - HERITAGE PARK, QLD 27/9/2007 |
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HOLDEN ASTRA TWINTOP 2007: RE: DOES ANYONE HAVE AN ASTRA TWINTOP? THINKING OF BUYING ONE. *REPLY* |
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Me too - I’m looking into buying a Twin Top. They look great have spoken to a mechanic friend that works at Holden. He did say the soft tops had problems but these are great cars. |
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| POSTED BY: DEBBIE - MILPERRA, NSW, AUS, 27/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "Hi, Does anyone have any comments or advice on the new Holden Astra TwinTop? I'm thinking of buying it and would really appreciate any comments, don't want to end up with another lemon. Cheers" POSTED BY: PATTY TAN - SYDNEY, NSW 30/04/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I own the old model Astra Convertible & they are complete Lemons. We actually have a group of us that email each other with our latest problems & Holden do not care at all. Mine had 6 major faults before I even drove it off the showroom floor. My dealer told me that they hope to god that they sorted out all the problems with the hard top roof with the 4 seater Astra, as the Tigra Hardtop Convertible has multiply problems, hence why it is no longer available. My friend just bought the Renault Megane Convertible & loves it; it has more features & the same price. Stay away from Holden all together, I had to get Consumer Affairs involved to get mine fixed & has cost them over 36k in 10 months of owning it, they will not replace it. Read all the bad reports of the Holden Astra's & then decide & I can guarantee you will not ever buy a Holden after reading them. POSTED BY: M PETERSON - BRISBANE, QLD 5/05/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have heard great reports about the twin top ... good fuel econ etc. It's funny to hear people who are not happy with the Holden product who have replaced their cars with another Holden? I guess you will get people who are never happy! POSTED BY: RIZZO JONES - SYDNEY, NSW 28/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I own a Twin Top, I have had it a month now. The only reason I got it was because my Astra Convertible soft top was a complete lemon & my dealer done me a non-disclosed trade-in on soft top. The twin tops are made in the same factory as the soft tops & look how well they went with those NOT. After dealing with Holden I swore I would never own another one & will be getting rid of my Twin top as soon as I have paid of the extra money I had to borrow to get rid of the Soft Top. There is hardly any leather in the new Twin Top, the interior is all plastic, but there is no wind noise. My friend bought the Renault Megane Hard Top Convertible which is the same price as the Astra Twin Top, but has more features & she loves hers. My advice is to stay away from Holdens altogether. If you read the Holden Astra complaints (there are lots of them), you can see that everyone who has had to deal with Holden H/O over their Astra's will say they don't care & it will be their last Holden. Holden H/o told me to cut my losses & sell my car, after they had already spent over 38k on it & it had been off the road for over 30 days in 14 months. Holden Just don't care. Good luck POSTED BY: MICHELLE - HERITAGE PARK, QLD 28/9/2007 |
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FORD FALCON XR6 BA 2004: MOTOR *COMPLAINT* |
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Hey guys I got a 2004 BA Falcon XR6 and for some reason when the car is in drive and running when the revs kick between 1000-4000 revs the motor doesn’t sound clear. It sounds like there is something flushing through there. If anyone knows what the problem please let me know because I can’t find out what it is thanks. |
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| POSTED BY: HASAN SULEYMAN - MELBOURNE, ACT, AUS, 26/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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HOLDEN VECTRA 2001: RE: HOLDEN VECTRA 2001: TO BUY OR NOT TO BUY *REPLY* |
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I agree do yourself a favour and don't buy a Vectra. I thought I had a good one but the last 9 months have been a disaster. Its not a matter of if something will happen, it's a matter of when it will happen ... but it will happen. |
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| POSTED BY: KAREN - CHATSWOOD, NSW, AUS, 26/09/2007 | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "I am looking to buy a Holden Vectra 2001 model 2.2 4cyl auto. I heard don't buy a Vectra buy an Astra & other people say don't buy either models. Please help me to make a decision?" POSTED BY: NAOMI HOLCROFT - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS 2/09/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Naomi, Do yourself a favour and don't buy either of these cars. Look at this site for all the complaints owners have about Vectras and Astras. Buy a good Japanese car instead. Good Luck, Mark. POSTED BY: MARK KURAN, MELBOURNE, VIC 3/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2001 Holden Vectra. I've had no problems at all with it and it's inexpensive to run. However the services where the timing belt needs changing is around $900. POSTED BY: ALEX HARRIS - ADELAIDE, SA 15/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== Holden Vectra: Dont Buy It! I have one that someone gave me because they were sick of it. They are very touchy. Look around on the net for Vectra, either Holden or Vauxhall. Thy have a very common problem with the engine cutting out when idling. They are expensive to repair, and even the Holden dealers can't fix them properly. Read this for examples: http://www.carsurvey.org/review_49982.html" POSTED BY: STEPHEN - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 19/09/2007 |
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FORD FALCON BA 2003: RE: FORD FALCON BA XT 2003: IF ENOUGH PEOPLE GET TOGETHER AND COMPLAIN *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Hello Brian, |
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| POSTED BY: DAVE JANZOW - ADELAIDE, SA, AUS, 26/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "FORD FALCON BA XT 2003: IF ENOUGH PEOPLE GET TOGETHER AND COMPLAIN - My BA radiator ruptured & contaminated the trans fluid. Took it to Adtrans service dept who told me what the problem was & said I needed a new radiator, hoses, overflow tank, block flush, coolant & replacement trans as the coolant would have ruined the internals. Quoted $4700. I then started researching on the net & asking people in the trade & found this has been a recognised fault with the BA. I contacted Ford customer relations & spoke to Ryan. He gave me a reference number & asked me to take it to a Ford dealer (ADRIEN BRIEN) for inspection. They told me the same story & thought Ford would fix it & said Ford would contact me. After waiting 4 days I rang Ryan & he said they would not help. More research. Then I rang Ryan again to get a reason, but he was on the phone & I was told he would ring me back, he must be still on the phone (4 days now). The car was serviced by Ford dealers, has done 118Km and out of warranty but because Ford had known about this fault & fixed some out of warranty they should have done a recall & rectified the problem & not just hope too many people would complain. I would like all owners to get together & perhaps get a lawyer to represent us in our claims. Any info & advice please email me so we can get organised. Brian." POSTED BY: BRIAN LITTLE - ADELAIDE, SA 30/06/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have just purchased a 2003 BA XT and I am now reading about this problem with the coolant contaminating the transmission fluid. Have Ford done anything about this problem since it happened to you? Regards. POSTED BY: SIMON THOMAS - WILLIAMSTOWN, VIC 8/8/2007 |
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MOTORHOME THOR 2007: ANYTHING MADE BY THOR OR FLEETWOOD *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
These two manufacturers have no quality control at their factories, slap units together, and send them out to dealers. They will not honor their warrantee, and will fight you all the way to repair anything. |
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| POSTED BY: STEWART TOLLEY - ABBOTSFORD, CANADA, 24/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== I agree completely that Fleetwood has lost control of their quality control. I purchased a new All American Sport (toy hauler) and had nothing but trouble with the unit from the first trip we took. Within a year I traded it in on another unit. I liked the camper but could not put up with all the repairs and the down time while it was in the shop. POSTED BY: TIM BANKS - ATLANTA, GEORGIA, USA 15/11/2007 |
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HOLDEN JACKAROO 1998: RE: JACKAROO WILL NOT START *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Phil, |
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| POSTED BY: LEE - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 24/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN JACKAROO 1998: JACKAROO WILL NOT START - I have had my 1998 Jackaroo for 6 months (bought off a Dealer) everything was going fine up until 3 weeks ago after a 6 months service the vehicle will not start. I had the NRMA out to try and start it but they couldn't. The Jackaroo will turn over but will not fire. I took it back to the service dept and after 1 week they could not find (or fix) the problem. The computer was tested and came up fine and they had put the right oil in (as this is all they did for the service?). I now have a Holden Jackaroo sitting on my front lawn unable to start. Glow plugs are o.k., 2006 Injectors had been replaced, (as of recall '06') The correct oil has been added, '07' Oil pick up rings replaced '06' I am upset as I had paid a substantial amount of money for the vehicle as it is in very good condition and ran fine when test driving, however six months down the track it no longer goes, nobody seems to know why? And I am left paying off a vehicle I can't drive. If anybody has had a problem like this or knows what the problem may be to get fixed I would be very grateful. Thanks Phil" POSTED BY: PHIL UNSWORTH - CANBERRA, ACT 15/07/2007 ========== REPLY ========== I suggest you phone Holden's Customer Assistance Centre on 1800 033 349. They should be able to liaise between yourself and the dealer to get your problem fixed ASAP. Maybe you need to try the other dealer in Canberra if you are unhappy with your current dealer's technical ability to fix your problem? POSTED BY: JT - GOULBURN, NSW 17/7/2007 ========== REPLY ========== It is most important that the oil put into your car is 5W30 grade. Or (0w-30 for cold areas). If it is any thicker the car will be hard to start. As a general rule most service centers will put in a 20w-50 into your car. Ask the service people what grade oil they used. Your motor is a lot more technical than most. It uses 300 psi oil pressure to fire the electronic injectors, if the oil is too thick it can not build up the pressure fast enough to start cold. It runs 2 complete oil systems, one for the normal engine lubrication and one for the injector rail. I spent most of last week rebuilding the top end of one, so I am now pretty familiar with the workings of them. If they did put the wrong oil in (like most service centers do) it can take up to 4 or 5 flush outs with the correct oil to come back to normal. Let me know how you go. Also the map sensor port on the intake manifold does get blocked, worth a look at. Regards William POSTED BY: WILLIAM - BACCHUS MARSH, VIC 20/7/2007 |
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FORD KA 2001: RE: SOME CHEAPER SOLUTIONS TO FIXING AN ASTRA I.E. IDLE PROBLEMS, ELEC WIND .. *REPLY* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi just wondering with your idle problems, did it possibly over rev and not return to idle when changing gears? Had computer tested come up with nothing ... just wondering if maybe you had a possible thought about it. It’s a Ford Ka car but? Thanks for any input if you have any ideas. |
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| POSTED BY: LINDSAY BROWN - BRISBANE, QLD, AUS, 24/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "HOLDEN ASTRA TS CD 1.8 2000: SOME CHEAPER SOLUTIONS TO FIXING AN ASTRA I.E. IDLE PROBLEMS, ELEC WIND ... Hi everyone, well like everyone else on here that has had a 1999-2005 Astra, they have had problems. My girlfriend got an Astra about two years ago and overall I would rate the Astra an alright car with many (ok, more than many) problems over the years. The car seems to be built ok but hasn't had the finishing touches to improve a car like most manufacturers do. They have obviously done this so the dealers make more money with repairs. The first problem we had was the cruise control. This is a bad one as it could be one of many things. I found the problem was a faulty button on the indicator stick and this was replaced under warranty but it did cost the dealer $150 (not a Holden dealership otherwise they would have said it’s not covered by warranty). No cheap fix for this one. The second problem was a leaky headlight. You can remove the headlight easily from the car and wipe out the excess moisture and reseal it very easily using any clear sealant for $15. Just make sure you let it dry for a day and carefully remove any excess sealant with a sharp blade. The third was the rear electric window. A Holden dealership will charge between $550-$800 and say its 2-3 hours labor. Go to Motor Traders and buy the unit for about $300. Take the door trim off. There is a screw where the door handle is in the hand groove. Remove the little mesh section in the door next to the door handle, and at the bottom of the door, then carefully pull the door trim off as it is only held on by white tabs. Then you will see several pot rivets. There are four holding the power window unit on and from memory two holding the handle on (leave these). Drill out the four pot rivets carefully using a drill and an appropriate size drill bit. The unit can then be pulled out of the bottom of the door complete. Slide the new unit in and slot the window into it as you put it in place and pot rivet the new one in place with large pot rivets. Replace the door trim and test. I did this in about 45 minutes the first time I did it. The final is the idle problem. If you stop after driving and either your car stalls all the time or idle drops to about 500rpm and shudders, then lifts back up to normal, the computer will say unknown problem to the mechanic and some better mechanics will know this is the idle control valve on your throttle body. A Holden dealership will tell you need a new one but it will cost about $800 as it’s all joined to the throttle body. I removed the inlet pipe going onto the throttle body, (the big black one) by loosening a hose clamp and looked inside. There was a thick oil coating everywhere inside from the emissions hose (can’t remove it!). So clean all of that out with a rag and open the throttle with your hand and clean as much as you can (whatever you do, don’t drop anything down there as you wont be able to get it out without pulling the engine apart). Then put the inlet pipe back on and start your car, as good as new. But earlier this morning the bonnet release cable has either broken or come off under the hood and I can’t open it and have been told the only way to do it is to smash the grill to get to the latch. Great engineering by the Holden Astra team, once again! Hope this helps some people." POSTED BY: TORY SCAFE - ADELAIDE, SA 19/08/2007 |
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FORD TERRITORY 2004: MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
In January this year I had major brake failure in my Territory when a brake line sheared off, was fixed with no issue from Ford. |
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| POSTED BY: MARK FIELD - WOLLONGONG, NSW, AUS, 24/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== It could have been a faulty filter as it can happen and I have heard of this happening to other cars so you’re not the only one. Yes they can be **** when you miss a service especially by a few thousand kms. By missing your car by 4000 kms shouldn’t make a difference. I know people who has Ford who missed there’s by 20,000 kms naughty. However I do mine on the dot. I don’t think that was Ford's fault because of the filter. I know it is a pain in the **** when you have to spend 1000 dollars or more or even less. The brakes can be a problem because due to the lining they get hot. They tend to wear more especially when going up and down hills however haven’t heard of the brakes shearing off. It's not the car's fault. It either the dodgy Ford service you are getting or was it the filter, but I don’t think it was the car. Don’t dam them for good and say I won’t buy another one. I will probably keep on buying them till the day I die! I like them so much. I wish you all the best and maybe try a different Ford service and built a good relation ship with them! POSTED BY: CHRIS ANDERSON - MARYBOROUGH, QLD 26/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== So it's the manufacturer’s fault that you don't service the vehicle? The service books are there for a reason champ. No, don't ever buy a Ford again; actually, don't ever buy any car again, as obviously you have trouble understanding the words “scheduled maintenance". POSTED BY: JOHN SMITH - LOCATION NOT SUPPLIED 26/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== There is an issue with certain Falcon rear brake hoses (lines), but to date we have not had any issues with Territory. Perhaps a foreign object had struck the hose to cause the damage. Anyway it was good that the dealer replaced it without issue. We have had some leaks from engine oil filters (2 in fact) over the past 5 years, and have found swollen filters several times. These are all noted to be on vehicles that exceeded the recommended service interval (often fleet vehicles). Your friend is very lucky to still have his ED running with 2 litres of oil in it, as it should have 5.25 litres in it. (I suppose he saves a lot of money leaving that 3.25 litres out). I certainly do not do that with my ED Fairmont. I find it interesting that your dealer complained that you were 4,000km over your 40,000km service. Do date I am not aware that any Territorys had service intervals other than an initial 3,000km for the Peace Of Mind Service and regular services at 15,000km, 30,000km, 45,000km, 60,000km and so on. With your vehicle that means you were 1,000km too early for your 45,000km service interval (if the 30,000 was done). Finally, I'm sorry that your car didn't stop for the service at the correct time, bad car, bad Ford. Sorry, just had to say it. POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW 30/9/2007 |
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KIA CARNIVAL 2001: 1ST AND 2ND MOTOR BLEW UP/OIL IN RADIATER/OVERHEAT COOKED HEAD *COMPLAINT* |
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ISSUE: |
First, nice to know I'm not alone. We are the owner of a Dec 2001 model Kia Carnival. We purchased it second hand from a dealer for $24,500 it was still under a new car warranty when we purchased it and had only done some 23000 km. |
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| POSTED BY: RACHEL DIOTH - MARYBOROUGH, QLD, AUS, 23/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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FORD FALCON BA 0: TRANS COOLER IN RADIATOR FAILING... *ADVICE* |
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ISSUE: |
Hey there everybody. |
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| POSTED BY: ALLAN BOWER - PERTH, WA, AUS, 23/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== Sounds like a good idea. What downsides are there to redirecting the transmission fluid, for example will there be a loss of cooling efficiency? Cheers, Graeme POSTED BY: GRAEME ANDERSON - MELBOURNE, VIC 24/9/2007 ========== REPLY ========== My brother has a BA Falcon and had the same problem. He was lucky as the transmission fluid leaked back into the radiator and not the other way around. The problem was fixed by replacing the radiator with a copper core type. POSTED BY: CHARLIE ROSE - MANDUEAH, WA 23/4/2008 |
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TOYOTA HILUX SR5 D4D 3L AUTO 2007: SEVERE DIESEL RATTLE FIRST START EACH DAY & HANDLING PROBLEMS *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Has anyone else experienced an embarrassingly loud engine rattle especially on cold mornings? It sounds like big end bearings about to disintegrate if you try to accelerate above about 40 k's for the first two or three minutes. I suspect it is Fuel related, in that perhaps it gets more diesel for start up, but the sensor isn't shutting down, pumping in too much fuel, causing the pinging. I have been back to the dealership several times, but with no ongoing success. |
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| POSTED BY: PHIL LOHREY - HORSHAM, VIC - AUS, 23/09/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== In previous postings on this site, some have had injector problems that have been causing loud noise in the mornings. Toyota apparently know about the problem. Be sure to post a reply on this site when your problem is fixed. Good Luck, Mark. POSTED BY: MARK KURAN, MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 23 SEP 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Phil, this appears to be one of those "yours has it - but mine doesn't" sort of problems. In my town there are 5 new Hilux SR5 diesels and mine is the only one with the same problem. Toyota may be aware of it but I have had no luck at all actually getting the problem fixed. Toyota replaced? 1 injector and the noise stopped. 3 weeks later, the noise is back. Still waiting for Black Toyota or Toyota to find a solution. POSTED BY: ROD ENNOR - GLEN INNES, NSW - AUS 1 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== I have a 2007 Prado with (I believe) the same 3.0L D-4D engine. Living in the Southern Highlands, I started noticing this in the mornings. I certainly thought the valve lifters were coming away. After about 90 seconds the engine would come back to its normal quiet self. For the 15,000 km service I left it with the dealer overnight. They confirmed the noise, but said it was the normal function of the common rail diesel engine. Basically there is double injection, giving a richer mixture until the engine warms. Apparently dealers have this question asked a lot. Toyota have issued a bulletin to them (it would be nice to see this though). POSTED BY: MARTIN VISSER - YERRINBOOL, NSW - AUS 4 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Phil. A mate has a 06 Prado d4d that had the same problem. The colder the morning the louder the noise. The vehicle was left overnight with the local dealer twice before they would confirm the noise was there. After having it for several days and them going back and forth with Toyota a new set of injectors were fitted maybe two months ago and the noise has not come back. Also the fuel economy has returned to its original low usage. Sounds like some pressure is needed to make your dealer investigate the problem with Toyota. POSTED BY: TONY RILEY - HOBART, TAS - AUS 11 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Thanks Tony. Just yesterday, after I finally spat the dummy with the dealer, they think perhaps it "may" be the injectors. It is booked in overnight next Tuesday and a Toyota technician from Melbourne will be in Horsham to see first hand. So mine may be on the road to recovery, but unfortunately I think you are right about them not acknowledging the problem willingly. Cheers, Phil POSTED BY: PHIL LOHREY - HORSHAM, VIC - AUS 11 OCT 2007 ========== REPLY ========== First noticed this noise at 10,000klms with our 2007 Hilux. After 20,000klms service the noise was constant and did not go away even when warmed up. Have already had two injectors replaced. Last week vehicle totally stopped and had to be towed to dealership. Has anyone out there actually had success at getting this problem fixed? POSTED BY: PHIL - MOSS VALE, NSW - AUS 10 JUN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== My 2005 New Generation 3.0 D4D engine has the exact same problem. If anyone has a solution I would be please to hear. POSTED BY: SCOTT THEGGIE - MILL PARK, VIC - AUS 14 JUN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== My Hilux 07 after the 10,000 service developed a death rattle and at this point in time I have had no luck with my Toyota dealer giving me a satisfactory answer. Maybe replacing all the injectors could help the problem. I would like to hear from some one who could with problem. POSTED BY: JOSH KNIGHTLY - MT GAMBIER, SA - AUS 8 JUL 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Hey there, I have a 2006 Hilux 3 litre turbo diesel SR5 dual cab and have had all the injector rattles and clutch dramas you all speak of up until yesterday when the engine **** itself. Got Toyota to check the valve clearances 5000 kays early because I thought something wasn't right - well it’s **** now. Went back last week at 88000 kays because the engine light came on, turns out the egr valve **** itself. They never fixed it after saying they did, came out of their shop and only a matter of a couple of hours the light was back on. So it’s blown up now anyway, see if Toyota comes to the party ay. Was just driving along at a 100 kays on cruise control when surged a bit then blew a heap of smoke, I pushed in the clutch and it stopped. When I tried to re-start it you'd swear it had thrown a con-rod out the side of the block or a big end cap had come off. I took the dipstick out, plenty of metal in there, glittery to the **** house, see what old mate at Toyota reckons. POSTED BY: JASON TRELOAR - MOUNT GAMBIER, SA - AUS 4 AUG 2008 ========== REPLY ========== Phil I have a Hilux purchased new 2007 which has now 40000K on it. The injector noise you talk about has just started on my car. The problem started at 30,000 and drew the dealer’s attention to it at that service. Told me no problem with vehicle after doing cold start test. Car in for 40,000 service and told after cold start test new injector required with no warranty as water found in fuel. No light on from fuel system so no indication of problem. Off to do battle with dealer tomorrow. As for handling problems take the car to ARB and get them to fit the 30mm lift kit. The rear springs in my vehicle had sagged 45mm in the first 4 months with the Toyota original equipment. Had the kit fitted and the vehicle handles like a dream with or without load. Also replaced wheels and tyres and fitted 31x9x15 made the vehicle handle better. Cheers, Kim POSTED BY: KIM HAMILTON - DARWIN, NT - AUS 12 FEB 2009 |
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