I have a BF RTV ute and it just clocked up 30,000 since July last year and will be clocking up quite a few more kms in the next few months.

All I can say about them is what a great ute. I do some fairly serious off road work with it and am quite confident in taking it anywhere that a "real" 4WD will go in high range.

The only problems I have had with it are a broken fuel tank breather, complete tank replaced under warranty, and a dud front right shock, to be replaced in the next week or so.

For what I do the standard tyres are ****, but have replaced them with Bridgestone desert duellers and the the ute was transformed for off road performance.

I would recommend an RTV to anyone who needs to go on unsealed roads or the odd off road journey and doesn't need a full time 4WD. The ute performed faultlessly in 3 trips down the Gibb River Road in three days, and not even a puncture.

Steering wheel and ignition are both locked and unable to turn key to start car. Have tried moving steering wheel and nothing works.

Any ideas?

We bought a brand new Typhoon 6 months ago and it has been nothing but trouble. Ford can't find anything wrong with it and have come up with inferior petrol. Apparently our car is being contaminated with dirty petrol. This, Ford say is the reason we can be travelling along on the motorway at 110km/h and the car suddenly comes to a halt nearly killing us and the people in cars around us. It has been in to Fords to have it checked on numerous occasions and nothing is ever found.

Who is the general manager of Fords Queensland Australia? We are fed up of talking to the monkeys and want to speak to the organ grinder. Dee

RE: HOLDEN ASTRA - Some problems rather early (see below)

Hi, the stock tyres on the Astra's are cheapies and will only last about 55K ... go a wider size next time like a 205/60/16 and you'll notice a heck of a diff in handling and braking.

Brakes should last longer, but it all depends if you're 'brake happy' ... I drive behind people and see them use their brakes for no reason at all.

Make sure you change your cam belts at 60K or you'll be sorry...

RE: FALCON XR6 BA 2003: THROTTLE LIGHT AND MASSIVE ENGINE SHUDDERS (see below)

The problem is the Throttle Position Switch. Just had mine replaced ...be careful though cause when they replace it the screws shear off and the Throttle body needs replacing as well. $600 for the Throttle Body. About $160 for the switch.

Well my advice is go and get independent advice. What could be the problem is the center, the diff is weaker than the previous models. Go and get an older model Ford diff center but I don't know if it will work on the RTV because of the height but that is my advice. When I buy my new Falcon this year the first thing I will be doing is changing the diff center. Well that is what I been told to do any way. I'm still deciding if I want a ute or a sedan but I will figure that one out? Good luck - wouldn't buy a Jap car, too expensive for parts and labour.

The Australian Automobile Association today welcomed moves by the Federal Government to monitor petrol price movements running into and during the Easter Holiday long weekend.

AAA Executive Director, Mike Harris, said the move by Treasurer Peter Costello in directing the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission to monitor the oil companies' petrol pricing movements over the holiday period was in the interests of all Australian motorists and their families.

"AAA has been highlighting the discrepancies between the world price for crude oil and Australia's domestic petrol prices for some time now - calling for greater monitoring and reporting of these prices movements by the ACCC," Mr Harris said.

"Indeed, AAA has only recently written to the ACCC and the four major oil companies advising of our concerns and putting them on notice about petrol price rises which do not reflect these international prices for crude oil.

"We welcome the Treasurer's call for greater ACCC scrutiny and look forward to a more active involvement of the Commission in overseeing these price movements and advising the community."

The AAA represents Australia's motoring Clubs with a membership of more than 6 million Australian motorists.

You're not alone guys - mine is a used work vehicle. I don't do any towing and I have only done 73000 kms. I am in the process of trying to get Ford to do something about it but I keep getting told that I'm out of warranty. The transmission place here in Geelong has told me that it's a common problem with those gearboxes.

RE: ONLY DONE 70000KMS FRONT-END & DIFF ARE WORN OUT

BF with 8,000 klms had 3 diffs already and still makes noises. These are nothing but lemons looks like we have to start buying Jap cars in future. I have had six Fords so far but this will be the last!

Our 1997 second-hand Kia Sportage has just ticked over the 100,000km mark - and is dead!

After days of losing collants - and power - we finally succumbed to taking it to a Kia dealer for a check. The prognosis? No compression, valves stuffed - basically a dud vehicle. We should have known, given the appalling reputation of Kia vehicles and the reluctance of dealers and the manufacturer to deal with the issues.

Bottom line? Never Buy a Kia!

Similar to other owners this Astra has needed dollars spent earlier than I expected. At 55000Ks we've had new tyres $400:00; Front Brakes $300:00; Belt Tentioner and Belt $350:00; Alternator $1350:00. Reconditioned Alternators are not available in WA.

Fingers crossed we make at least 60000Ks before Timimg belt needed.

I have recently had dealings with Paul Tall and found him to be a very genuine and understanding person to deal with at all times. He has gone out of his way to be helpful and polite and has always returned my phone calls promptly. It never ceases to amaze me that some people have nothing else to do but to build mountains out of molehills and are quick enough to complain about things. Do they ever stop to give credit or show appreciation for the good things in life? We could do with many more trades people like Paul Tall.

RE: ONLY DONE 70000KMS FRONT-END & DIFF ARE WORN OUT

Hi there, I had one of these RTV utes (piece of junk), 3 Dana diffs, knocks and clunks from front end, had caliper shims replaced, clunks in the auto (should have had a new BTR box replaced - Ford said no!). Numerous rattles and squeaks in cab that Ford couldn't find!

I bought it brand new, had it for 10,000 klms, was in 3 different Ford Dealerships went in on 14 occasions, off the road for about 5 weeks in total! Biggest lemon I have owned, that was my 5th and last Falcon! Never again.

The car is revving in gear and not changing or going back in gear when this happens. Gear box has been changed at huge cost. Been back four times as repair has not been successful. Anyone with any idea what this could be?

Repairer says he can't find anything wrong but the car is still revving and not changing gears.

RE: NISSAN PATROL TI 2002: AIR BAGS (see below)

Hi, it is illegal for a dealer to let you drive around with the airbag light on. While the airbag or ABS lights are on the systems will not function correcttly, it is a safety issue that should get fixed ASAP, try another dealer.

It is only an airbag light, there is not that many things that can go wrong ...

I recently purchased my XR6 Turbo second hand from Adtrans on Daws/South Rd corner in Adelaide. The car ran hot so I took it back to the dealer and was told there was trans fluid in the coolant. They said the Ford warranty would cover this and the trans needed replacing as did the radiator.

Ford Australia said no to the warranty (4 months expired) even though this is a design fault in the car. Suddenly, because the dealer was faced with the repair cost, they said it does not need a new trans but just a flush/oil change. Don't be fooled. If this happens to you fight to the death because your trans will be ****. It might not show for a few months but corrosion in the trans is inevitable and expensive.

The airbag warning light has been flashing for 3 years due to the drivers side air bag in the seat trigging it. No one at Nissan can give answer why.

I bought a new 2002 Ford Focus CL in May 2003. I've had nothing but problems with the car and the dealership.

I've had the front left wheel bearings replaced 3 times with the hub being replaced once. I've gone through 2 sets of brake pads, had the coil pack replaced, steering rack replaced, cat converter replaced, front brushed reconditioned, left rear shock is now leaking, left rear spring is rubbing on metal and today (26/03/07) the engine is now making a ticking noise and have been told it could be the cam gears and cam belt.

Has anyone else out there had these problems with their Focus?

RE: HOLDEN CREWMAN VY 5.7 2003: DRIVETRAIN VIBRATION AND DIFF NOISE (see below)

Have a VY Crewman S auto new in July 2004. I am onto 4th diff now @ 108000kms. Diff noise on first one came in around 15-20k. Waited many months for 2nd one & didn't even get to pass the road test so no. 3 was ordered. It took nearly 6 months to get that one as Holdens were having so much trouble with diffs there were no spares available. Number 4 is still going ok touch wood.

I would insist on a new diff and see how it goes. I had no trouble with Holdens diagnosis it was just getting the diffs, and I believe the problems are still ongoing.

Also had heaps of trouble with front struts clunking when going into driveways and rear spring packs squeaking. Other than that I would go for another one as it is so handy, handles well and tows a 171/2 foot caravan like you forget it is there most of the time. Push for a new diff and yes there is very light backlash in mine as well only noticeable when in steady traffic.

Regards Rob

RE: HOLDEN ASTRA - Keep an eye on these things...

Hi, regarding the turn your AC off when turning the car on and off, that is a myth that was common on old cars. By doing this in new cars the only thing you are doing is wearing out the switch. The AC compressor doesn't cut in when you turn the ignition on. It will cut in a few seconds after the car is started. Hence no load on your starter, old cars where different but for most cars built from the early 90's on, it is a waste of time.

So don't wear out your AC switch, they usually cost a fortune ... And yes I know what I am talking about, I am a mechanic by trade and yes it was at Holden.

RE: FORD FALCON XH UTE 1998: ENGINE WON'T START

I had a similar problem with my 2004 Falcon BA XT. My alarm siren came on for no reason. Reset the alarm via the fob. Started the car and moved it. Next morning tried to start. Same response as yours. Everything normal but nothing happened in start position. Starter would not crank over. Alarm kept coming on each time in start position. Lights worked fine.

I cleaned the battery terminals first and re-tightened them but that did not help. I replaced the car battery and straight away everything came good. The battery had died with none of the usual advanced warnings - sluggish starts, dim lights etc. I suspected the battery (as the alarm siren had been coming on and off for no reason for about three weeks everytime I tried to start the car).

I confirmed that it was the battery by replacing it with one from the other car. It worked. I then purchased a new battery. Hope this helps.

BTW, don't try jump starting. Apparently not good for the computer. I tried it anyway but the car didn't start. (computer is fine!)

I have had my diff replaced at approx 40,000 km after a lot of complaints about back lash. They replaced the clutch slave cylinder earlier and that didn't help and it wasn't till I got the owner of the dealership to drive it that they said there was a problem.

Anyone who knows where I can get tailgate seals that seal the whole tailgate please feel free to contact me. Also a heavier set of front springs as I have had mine replaced under warranty once but they're sagging again probably due to the fact I have got a 5 poster alloy bar and side rails with steps on it.

My email is uteman27@hotmail.com.au if u wish to get in touch.

I totally agree with their point of view having purchased a Thailand sourced Honda Accord. The car has been a disappointment from day one. The fit and finish is pathetic. The selling dealer informed me the faults were acceptable - end of story and go away.

Another more honest dealer informed me that they could not fix the faults without modifying the car. Virtually every fault which needs to be rectified requires the body to be modified to make ill fitting components work - so much for Honda quality. It is very disappointing when you rely on a manufacturer to build quality cars - especially one which has a solid reputation only to be left with a lemon.

Honda is relying on its past reputation to sell poor quality cars in the present to the unsuspecting public. Honda, at every level still maintains the allusion that you the customer are purchasing a premium Japanese brand.

Considering I have been waiting patiently for TWO YEARS for satisfactory outcomes indicates nothing could be further from the truth. For example, the response received from the two 'new car surveys' - total silence. I have sent Honda Australia a comprehensive history of my problems including photographic evidence to support my view. I will keep you posted.

Last night my ute was parked and locked outside the house. The horn began to sound so I put the key in to the ignition and started the engine. The horn stopped sounding so I stopped the engine and locked her up.

This morning the starter motor will not actuate. Battery voltage is 12.4V and the lights work etc. All the usual things happen when the key goes to the ON position but when moved to START ... nothing.

My question: Is it possible that the immobiliser has something to do with this fault?
The coincidence of the horn etc and now today. I welcome any feedback. Thank you.

2004 FORD BA RTV one tonner straight gas:
Where do I start! I purchased the vehicle brand new in April 2004. Firstly I have run out of gas twice because of a faulty gas gauge and had to be towed into town from the middle of nowhere.

The main concern I have had is not being able to see out of the vehicle. I took it back to the salesman and complained about the problem and all he did was laugh and said no one else has complained. (So I learnt to live with it!).

But now I have noises in the front and back end and it wasn't until I took it back for end of warranty inspection that I found out that the diff and front-end components are completely worn out.

The shape of the cab is dangerous to passengers and I continually hit our heads on the inside of cab because of its contouring or sloping shape of the sides of the cab.

The pillar where the seatbelt is fastened. Being a tall person I find it difficult seeing through the windscreen because the cab is too short in the cab height. I'm basically looking through the top of sun visor. I have learnt to adjust to this by slouching in the seat. Being a tradesman and using my vehicle all the time I have had a bad back from the position I'm sitting in.

This model, one tonner should have had a lot more thought put into cab design shape. I would not recommend one of these to a larger person and would never buy another one like it.

In all the main problems that have plagued me are front brake shudder, noisy idler pulley bearing, gas gauge, front end ball joints clunking, diff noisy & clunking, gas backfiring & not starting, electric window problems.

Regards, M Nash.