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| COMPLAINTS
CORNER |
complaints.motorsm.com |
| "Complaints Corner" provides an online billboard to publicize problems or complaints about your car or poor after-sales support from dealerships and manufacturers. Good news about exceptional customer service etc. will also be published. N.B. MotorSM is not responsible nor endorse views expressed by contributors. | |
| FEB 2007 - COMPLAINTS CORNER 2007: 11/07 10/07 9/07 8/07 7/07 6/06 5/07 4/07 3/07 2/07 1/07 2006 |
| FORD FOCUS CL 2002: TRANSMISSION PROBLEM *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Just posting in response to the the FORD FOCUS Transmission problem (see below). I had this car since new, and in the early thousands of km's it came up with a transmission problem. Now it's only done 57,000kms and it can last a week without going back into repairs (apparently a new transmission wont fix the fault). Transmission fault light goes on, gets locked in third gear. The gears did jerk prior to this as well. It is a pain, would not recommend Ford or a Focus to potential buyers. Does anyone that owns a Focus have a same problem? |
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| POSTED BY: TASH M - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 21/02/2007 | ||
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========== RELATED POSTINGS ========== "FORD FOCUS, 2002 - Major problem so soon: Purchased a Focus in Jan 2003 (so got a 2002 model). Not yet 4 years later and only 30,000 km on the clock my transmission needs a major fix costing $3200. Ford doesn't seem to know what the problem is but do know the transmission has to come out and be taken apart. I'm amazed. I don't recall even spending this much on past second hand cars during the many years I had them. I thought a new car would be cost effective. I'm wondering if after the next 30,000 km I'll be up for another huge bill. I'm not even driving 10,000 kms a year. Has anyone else encountered problems with their auto transmission?" ========== RELATED POSTINGS ========== ========== RELATED POSTINGS ========== Is there anyone out there who can shed light on this problem, as the warranty is about to expire on the car. Other faults that I have had fixed under warranty are: The car has now developed a noise in the calipers in the front left brakes after you brake. I had a similar problem with a 97 Laser which was fixed under warranty. Apart from these faults, a fantastic car to drive, especially overtaking on the highway. Thanks " |
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| CHEVROLET BLAZER LS 2002: STEERING BOX PROBLEMS *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
Four wheel SUV started wandering. Had tie rod joint replaced. No fix. Had front end aligned to GM spec. no fix. I am now told the steering box bearing has failed. Steering column has a "clunking" sound on rough terrain. I have been driving for 54 years and never heard of such a thing, even before power steering. Vehicle has 85,000 miles, all by me. No off road usage. |
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| POSTED BY: B WARFEL - WINCHESTER, INTERNATIONAL, 21/02/2007 | ||
| TOYOTA RAV4 2002: TOYOTA REFUSES TO REPAIR SLUDGED ENGINE *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
Although my RAV4 (2002) had the oil changed frequently, I was told that sludge in my engine was my fault and that I should pay $8000 to replace the engine on a leased vehicle. Since I refused, I have not had the use of my vehicle since 2005. I have been driving Toyota cars and SUVs over 25 years and I cannot understand this hostile treatment. I hope this never happens to anyone else. Hurt in Kentucky |
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| POSTED BY: A LADY - LOUISVILLE USA, INTERNATIONAL, 21/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN ASTRA 2001: DON'T BUY A HOLDEN ASTRA - YOU CAN'T AFFORD ITS PROBLEMS *UPDATE* |
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ISSUE: |
I decided to bite the bullet ... I got rid of my Astra. At 150,000kms - just 5 years old the cars was going to cost me around $3.5k in parts - power steering pump, steering rack and also the clutch. Enough is enough Holden - test the design properly before you buy them. In Australia some of us like to own our cars for longer than 5 years and some of us can't afford to upgrade every 3 years. My car was fine, fantastic and I loved it and then it hit 100,000 kms and it was all down hill from there. Plus Holden's customer service is most frustrating! Good luck to all the other Astra owners. |
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| POSTED BY: M LAUDER - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 20/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN MONARO CV8-Z 2005: GEAR SHIFT STICK PROBLEMS *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
I purchased my Holden CV8-Z Monaro brand new in March 2006. I have had a wide variety of concerns since I purchased the vehicle. However the problem that continually causes me concern is the gear shift stick in the 6-speed manual transmission. In the past 11 months I have had the gear shift stick replaced 3 times. The first at 4000km on the odometer, the second at 11,000km's and the third recently at 16,000km's. My Holden dealer have told me this is an ongoing concern with all 6-speed manual transmissions and it is caused by the plastic inside becoming weak over time as the drive train moves and hence it rattles against the metal. Causing the gearbox to give off a loud rattling sound as you change gears. Mine mainly occurs between changes in 2nd and 3rd gear. Apparently Holden just keep telling their dealers to fix the problem rather than them come up with a way to solve the issue. Every time my car goes back I am without it for 2 days. This is not good enough for a car that cost me $65,000, less than a year ago. It only has 16,000 on the odometer it is virtually brand new still. My dealer said they have had some results by gluing the plastic inside to the actual metal hopefully stopping this movement and rattling from occurring in the future. Is it just me or does it seem stupid for everybody to hand out so much money for a car just to have bits glued together in the hope of solving a problem that is apparently causing concerns across the country. My dealer tells me they are constantly filing reports with Holden management about the issue and are repeatedly told just to keep fixing the problem to original Holden specifications, perhaps they shouldn't be fixing it to specifications and looking outside the box at other alternatives that could help achieve a better outcome and hopefully stop customers from complaining and feeling as though nothing is being done. I can't be without my car for 2 days every couple of months. It is affecting my day to day living and my job, with me having to take time out to drop the car off at the dealer and then find transportation for the rest of the two days. It's not good enough! |
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| POSTED BY: B RICHARDSON - EPSOM, VIC - AUS, 20/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN ZAFIRA 2004: OIL WARNING LAMP DOES NOT WORK *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Has anyone had an experience with the Astra 2.2l engine and the oil warning lamp not working? My car was on 22000 km after its last service (yes I admit it was overdue) and the timing chain tensioner seized allowing the chain to jump and the engine destroy itself. Holden said the problem was lack of oil to the oil pressured tensioner. |
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| POSTED BY: N DOBSON-KEEFFE - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 20/02/2007 | ||
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========== REPLY ========== People. NEW VEHICLES WILL USE OIL! Up to 1/2 liter per 1000km is acceptable. That means if your sump holds 5 liters then it will be empty in 10,000km. Oil pressure lights only come on at very low pressure. If the oil level is low the light will often flash on when cornering or braking, depending where the pick up is located in the sump. People you must check your engine oil, if you let it run low and damage the engine then that's your problem. If you have ever looked under the hood of a modern vehicle you will see several items coloured bright yellow. These items should be checked weekly. The oil dipstick is Yellow for that reason. Items coloured Red are to be checked on a less regular basis. POSTED BY: HARRY BELL - NEWCASTLE, NSW 5/6/2007 |
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| FORD FOCUS 2002: WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY FORD FOCUS, JUST WON'T START *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I have a Ford Focus 2002 - went up street for drive, got back home about 1 or 2 hours later - just would not start. It winds over, has spark and nobody seems to know why it wont start. Everyone stumped, told it could be immobiliser, another thought not, told could be fuel pump, another looking at it tomorrow. Hope they have an idea. Rang Ford dealer, said I had to get it to dealer. How - it's stuck in my drive way. Has anyone any ideas? |
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| POSTED BY: K BILLOWS - WYNYARD, TAS - AUS, 20/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN VECTRA JR 1998: VECTRAS - WHAT A JOKE! *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
Never Buy a Vectra! I have been the (not proud) owner of a 98 Vectra for just over a year now. I am in the unenviable position of having purchased it from a family member in good faith, but it is the biggest joke of a car I have ever owned. I have the incredible luck of having a friend who is a parts manager for Holden, which means that I get parts for cost price, and boy have I tested our friendship in the last year. My brother has done all of my mechanical work, saving me a huge amount of money. Unfortunately for him, Vectras are European and needlessly complicated under the hood, making the simplest of repairs a huge job. Being European also means that parts cost a lot more than for normal cars. It has always leaked coolant and oil, and the muffler sounds awful. In the last year, we have spent over $1000 on cost price parts for this lemon. The first problem occurred after about a month when we needed to replace a cam shaft sensor at the cost price of about $190. The engine light is pretty much always on, with problems with the CO2 sensor, with a replacement cost of about $300. The water pump came loose and was basically jumping around under the bonnet, with a replacement cost of over $100 (cost). Funnily enough, Holden water pumps were in short supply at the time and there was a waiting list - we had to have ours custom made by somebody hoping to get a contract with Holden, as they would have made for steady reliable business! My partner was leaving work one day when the key wouldn't go in - turned out to be a jammed ignition barrel. $200 (cost price part) and 3 hours' labour later it was going again, but the disconnection of the battery had interfered with the radio, and we have only now got it working again (3 months later). This involved leaving the key turned to 'on' for enough hours to make our battery flat! When we took it out to put it on the charger, the plastic hosing for wires around it just disintegrated in our hands. Last week as my partner and I were preparing to go on holiday to the Gold Coast, we had replaced aforementioned flat battery, took it for a drive around and when we got back we noticed a large pool of coolant on the ground. Surprise surprise, the radiator had given up. New radiator, $230 cost, new expansion chamber, $40, tools and fluids to complete the job - $200, time 2 people spent trying to pull the radiator out and putting it back in - 5. And the piece de resistance, 2 nights ago we went out to pick up takeaway for dinner, stopped at traffic lights - and the car conked out. A hose that was untouched by the radiator repair had burst, apparently because it could not handle the pressure of a fully functioning radiator after the so-so performance of the last one. This simple hose, made of plastic and rubber, is about to cost us $300 cost price because it has to be specially clamped on, and not just attached by a clamp. The work required just to get at this hose will be ridiculous and time-consuming. This car has been nothing but heartache, all we wanted was a good, neat car that was reliable. Unfortunately, my Holden employee friend tells me that Vectras are renowned for being pieces of **** - when my car went in there for the water pump replacement etc, the mechanics laughed and said it was the leakiest newer model car they had ever seen. They see them all the time, even the new ones being brought out now are known to be lemons. It's just not good enough, how can Holden get away with producing more and more lemons? I have had enough of this car, but I really don't have the heart to sell it to anyone knowing that it is so terrible. I think just to get a safety certificate, only a year after it was legitimately issued with one, will cost us about $1000. I've had enough! Never Buy a Vectra! PS. For all the Astra owners posting, my Holden friend tells me that they have the same parts as Vectras, absolutely rubbish he says. |
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| POSTED BY: S KANE - QLD, QLD - AUS, 19/02/2007 | ||
| NISSAN PATROL GU 2004: LH REAR ALLOY WHEEL FELL OFF *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
While travelling at 100k's on the Western Freeway - some looseness felt and then bang - the wheel is off travelling past us and into the Lederderg River. Some bolts sheered. Tyres rotated 2 months ago |
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| POSTED BY: M HAWKINS - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 18/02/2007 | ||
| MITSUBISHI MAGNA V6 2000: STARTING INTERMITTENT *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
For 3 months, have had intermittent start problem. Had it to the experts, however, faults do not show on computer diagnosis. Hard to fix? Engine fires, but then dies. After any where from one to 15 start attempts, it will fire. Once started, no problems. |
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| POSTED BY: P MENYWEATHER - GLASSHOUSE MOUNTAINS, QLD - AUS, 18/02/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== REPLY ========== RE: MAGNA V6 2000: STARTING INTERMITTENT I too have a V6 2000 Magna that's just started to do this. Only does it when cold and once started runs fine. When investigating the problem I noticed that my cruise control cable fitting is broken at the bracket and hanging loose. Apparently the cc and throttle cables need to be balanced so I'm wondering if this is affecting the automatic choke settings at startup? POSTED BY: DAVID NOBLE - KAREELA, NSW - AUS 10 APR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Try the connection to the distributor. The terminals corrode. You may need a new connector. POSTED BY: M KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 11 APR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== It isn't any ov that it is your battery is the problem. Our next door neighbours have a TJ Magna and it did the same thing. He replaced the battery and since then never missed a beat. I hope this helps. POSTED BY: CHRIS ANDERSON - MARYBOROUGH, QLD - AUS 14 APR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Onya Chris. My sister has had 2 Magnas/Veradas and have both done the same when the battery was low/failing. A good idea to check all power and ground points from the battery, especially the ground cable from body to motor. Another symptom is remotes failing due to low voltage for the receiver. POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS 16 APR 2007 ========== REPLY ========== Had same problem with 02 Verada, cleaned out iac valve on throttle body with carby cleaner. Never had problem since. POSTED BY: TREVOR MORRIS - CARRUM DOWNS, VIC - AUS 9 JAN 2008 ========== REPLY ========== I had a similar problem about 3 years ago with my 2001 TJ Magna. After much diagnosis I determined that the engine immobiliser was occasionally not turning off when the key was inserted in the ignition. I was able to confirm this by testing for voltage on a terminal in the Diagnostic Connector which corresponded with the immobiliser output status. I initially requested the Mitsubishi dealer disable the immobiliser but they advised that it could not be done. They suggested I replace the antenna ring which is a wire coil that fits around the ignition lock and picks up the signal from the ignition key. They advised that they had replaced these on rare occasions. I bought the antenna ring for approx $40.00 and replaced it myself. Have not had any intermittent starting problems since. POSTED BY: PAUL SCRUTTON - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS 17 FEB 2009 ========== REPLY ========== Hi all. Same issue with my 2000 Magna. Give this a read: martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi Getting under the dash and moving the "brown Wire" about gives immediate results. Well it did for me. It seems to do it every few days for a month. Will always start eventually but then for 3 months it won’t happen... great car. But gees we all know what’s going to happen as soon as I try to sell it! Cheers POSTED BY: SHANE ELLIS - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS 14 MAY 2009 |
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| FORD FALCON XR6 BA 2005: DIFF/TAILSHAFT *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
I purchased a BA XR6 (24/12/2005) which had a high frequency vibration. They balanced the tail shaft at the 3000km check up. This did not fix the problem. I took it back and told them that at 110km the diff is howling and vibrating and at 140kmh it is that bad you can't see out of the rear vision mirror. Their answer to that was, "it is illegal to drive at that speed so they can't check it". At 15000km service I noticed black crud around the fan belt pullies. I thought a pulley may be chewing out the belt. I spoke to their warranty clerk (Reef City Ford Gladstone) who told me that the black stuff all over the front of the engine is "wear and tear". Fortunately a young mechanic noticed an oil leak from around the timing cover which they fixed. I also spoke to them about the vibrations, same response; "it is illegal to drive at that speed so we can't check it". Over the next 6 months the noise became louder to the point where my old Mum (73 and half deaf) asked what the noise was. Ford's response, "what noise". On a recent trip to Brisbane it bothered me that much I traded it in on a new XR8. |
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| POSTED BY: RON H - BLUFF, QLD - AUS, 18/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN ASTRA 2001: NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS FROM WORD GO *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I am looking for feedback from other people who have bought Astra's. I have had nothing but problems with mine since I bought it and am now in the position of wondering whether to get rid of it or if this latest problem will be the last. I bought it in 2002; it had 1 owner and was still under new car warranty. First 2 years were ok but nearing the end of the warranty the ignition jammed up. I actually had to get RAA out to tow my car to a dealership. Luckily I was just in warranty and this was replaced. RAA man said it was a common problem that he had seen with the Astra's. I am now in my 6th year of this car and in the last 12 months have had to have timing belt down at 60,000km which cost over $1000. I have had to get front and back brakes down, another $1000. And now the latest is that the compressor has gone for the air conditioner which is going to be another $1000. Is this going to be the last of my problems? or are there others out there I am yet to have the joy of discovering? |
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| POSTED BY: L LATHAM - ADELAIDE, SA - AUS, 18/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN ASTRA 2002: UNHAPPY *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
Hello there, I too have a Holden Astra 2002 model that has twice now left me stranded in 35 degree heat because of a faulty ignition barrell. After talking to a dealer about it, it became apparent that this must have been a common problem and if so why should I have to pay for the replacement of faulty components. My car is now stranded in not the best suburb waiting to be towed on Monday to a dealer repair center. |
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| POSTED BY: R HARRISON - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 17/02/2007 | ||
| FORD FALCON BA 2005: TENSIONING WHEEL NUTS *ADVICE* |
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ISSUE: |
RE: DR Newbolds, Perth - BA Falcon Brake Shudder(see below) In reply to DR Newbolds comment regarding BA brake shudder. Mention was made on Ford Mechanics "only" knowing of over tensioning of wheel nuts. I have been in the automotive trade for over thirty years and many years back, during my apprenticeship I was taught not to overtighten wheel nuts. When I started working for a Mercedes dealer many years later, we "always" used a tension wrench on wheel nuts (and frowned on people who used impact wrenches in this situation). When I started at a Ford dealership many years after that I was originally scoffed at when I suggested to use a tension wrench on wheel nuts. If you would like to check, I am sure you will find most dealerships (and non dealerships) use torque bars in conjunction with impact wrenches on all wheel nuts. *Note to drivers: Check with your mechanic if they tension the nuts. |
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| POSTED BY: L DAVIS - BOMADERRY, NSW - AUS, 16/02/2007 PROVIDE FEEDBACK | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== To Anybody it may concern: On this issue of brake shudder there is only 1 thing that causes this problem - the wheels have been over tightened and unevenly. Because on the BA's and onwards the rotor is a bit larger than previous models, and when the rim is pressed against the rotor too tight it creates a distortion and runout to be untrue resulting in a shudder when brakes are applied. I know there is a Ford issued product bulletin to all of the dealers to correctly torque the wheel nuts at the right specification. If not correctly followed, it creates the above problem. Trust me I've proved it with my own when I had to change a tyre. |
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| DAEWOO NUBIRA 1997: BAD CAR *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
I have a problem with the car. Bought second hand from Hong Kong at 45,000km. The panels on the doors are breaking up. Oil leaks on the tappets and gear box. Now it is showing "Service" on the dash board. What could be the problem? Any one with an answer? Ernest |
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| POSTED BY: E LUNGU - LUSAKA, ZAMBIA, INTERNATIONAL, 16/02/2007 | ||
| KIA CARNIVAL 2000: RE: KIA CARNIVAL ENGINE RECALL / KNOWN FAULT - HELP NEEDED *ADVICE* |
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ISSUE: |
RE: A MCGRATH - PERTH, KIA CARNIVAL ENGINE RECALL / KNOWN FAULT - HELP NEEDED (see below) |
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| POSTED BY: MARK KURAN - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 16/02/2007 | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "Hi there, I need some help re my KIA Carnival please. It has been over heating for 5 months. Took it in to the workshop as per my warranty agreement and was told radiator needed flushing and a new thermostat. A few months later, told new radiator cap. On Monday I had it towed back in and told they "think" that the head gasket has gone and that as it was left for so long the water has leaked through and warped the head. When we bought the car (2nd hand from New Ford Wangarra Perth WA) we purchased an extended warranty for $1400. The warranty says they will cover replacement of the cylinder heads but they will not agree to this, plus the warranty says they will cover the first $2500 but they will not agree to this either. They are asking for the $ upfront for 15 hours labour to investigate the problem, the estimated cost for a new engine is $7,000 - $9,000. So where to go from here? I have had the car towed back to me; I do not have that sort of money. I have read up on the KIA faults and the engine recalls but how do I go about this? Will this help me? Should I contact a KIA service centre directly rather then Newford? If work is done then my warranty is null and void. Do I need to seek legal advice? Consumer Affairs? Any tips or help greatly appreciated. Please!" POSTED BY: A MCGRATH - PERTH, WA 15/02/2007 |
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| SUBARU WRX 2004: LUCKY YOU! S. MCLAY OF BRISBANE *ADVICE* |
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ISSUE: |
For S. McLay "hot Subi in the sunshine" lucky you! The Subaru Shop at Southpine is right on your doorstep. I couldn't speak more highly of their brand of service and knowledge. I have driven 1700km and back to Cairns confident that above all the other "service pretenders" the guys at the Subaru Shop know what they're doing. |
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| POSTED BY: S POLLARD - CAIRNS, QLD - AUS, 15/02/2007 | ||
| KIA CARNIVAL 2000: ENGINE RECALL / KNOWN FAULT - HELP NEEDED *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Hi there, I need some help re my KIA Carnival please. It has been over heating for 5 months. Took it in to the workshop as per my warranty agreement and was told radiator needed flushing and a new thermostat. A few months later, told new radiator cap. On Monday I had it towed back in and told they "think" that the head gasket has gone and that as it was left for so long the water has leaked through and warped the head. When we bought the car (2nd hand from New Ford Wangarra Perth WA) we purchased an extended warranty for $1400. The warranty says they will cover replacement of the cylinder heads but they will not agree to this, plus the warranty says they will cover the first $2500 but they will not agree to this either. They are asking for the $ upfront for 15 hours labour to investigate the problem, the estimated cost for a new engine is $7,000 - $9,000. So where to go from here? I have had the car towed back to me; I do not have that sort of money. I have read up on the KIA faults and the engine recalls but how do I go about this? Will this help me? Should I contact a KIA service centre directly rather then Newford? If work is done then my warranty is null and void. Do I need to seek legal advice? Consumer Affairs? Any tips or help greatly appreciated. Please! |
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| POSTED BY: A MCGRATH - PERTH, WA - AUS, 15/02/2007 | ||
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========== REPLY ========== "Sorry to hear about your troubles but the engines in the old Kia Carnivals are really prone to overheating and then head gasket, heads, engines need overhauling. I would try the consumer affairs in your state and push the warranty claim. Get rid of this car as soon as you can. It will be a bottomless pit where you throw your money in. Be sure to post the outcome of your saga on this site to help others in the same boat. Good luck, Mark." |
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| HONDA ACCORD EURO 2003: BACK LIGHT OF STEREO BLOWN *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
Few days ago my stereo display panel stopped working but the stereo a/c everything works as normal. But cannot see as the display screen is gone. According to some comments of some accord owners in USA, American Honda replace the full stereo free of charge though it is something to do with the stereo manufacturer (though the warranty is expired). Has anyone come across this problem? I tried to talk to someone from Honda Australia. But they said to take the car to a dealer and they will have a look at it. I haven't done that yet but I'm sure they will charge me for it. If anyone has any comments of this would like to hear. Sam |
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| POSTED BY: S SILVA - FOOTSCRAY, VIC - AUS, 15/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN ASTRA TS CD 2001: DO NOT BUY A HOLDEN *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
This car has gone back for Warranty repairs ever since it was purchased as a new car. It has more than 10 warranty repairs on it. From ECU at 66,000 kms to ignition barrels (multiple times), electric window motors, air conditioning compressors etc... Holden will not take any responsibility for their faulty product and will not admit that they have issues with any of its range. Trying to locate someone within Holden to take responsibility is impossible. Do Not Buy a Holden. If you have one already - Sell It. |
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| POSTED BY: S GREENFIELD - BRISBANE, QLD - AUS, 15/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN COMMODORE SS 2002: RE: SS VY SERIES 2 - SUSPECTED TAILSHAFT VIBRATION *FEEDBACK WANTED* |
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ISSUE: |
RE: HOLDEN VY SII COMMODORE SS, 2002 - VY Series 2 - Suspected Tailshaft Vibration (see below) I have a similar issue on my 2002 Chevrolet Lumina SS in Dubai which is the same vehicle branded under Chevrolet in our region and was hoping to get more information on this complaint. |
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| POSTED BY: J HERBST - DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, INTERNATIONAL, 14/02/2007 | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== Car had a vibration between 90 & 110 kph. Suspected tail shaft but Holden reckoned that it was tyres. It was a high frequency vibration. Finally took it to a mates place and put it up on the hoist & ran it at 100 kph in 6th gear. Well the car was shaking like hell and it wasn't looking good. Finally we noticed that Holden had connected the solid exhaust pipes to brackets bolting to the back of the transmission (no rubber mounting at all - straight bolting). The exhaust has no flexible connection (i.e solid from the headers) and seemed to be resonating/vibrating at certain RPM. The gearbox was vibrating within the 90-110 range so we disconnected the brackets and sure enough the vibration ceased. BAD DESIGN HOLDEN. The exhaust still resonates but I can live with that. It was a very bad before. Holden don't seem to have any idea about this it seems (or they don't want to know). As far as I am concerned the exhaust should have at least a braided s/s flexible connection to reduce the vibration and should've been properly mounted to the body with adequate rubber dampeners. I'm going to be taking it back to see what they will do about it cause it's bad design. How many other Commodore owners are complaining about vibrations like this. Plenty I bet. The rest of the car is good so I'll probably put a 2.5" high flow system. Holden doesn't really care about Australian customers once they have your money! The after sales service is below par" |
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| HOLDEN ASTRA 0: TIMING BELT - HOLDEN ASTRA *ADVICE* |
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ISSUE: |
I am a mechanic and service different models on a regular basis. I always advise the customer to replace the timing belt at the 80 - 100k km interval. I experienced the Astra broken belt costing (for a customer) which came to $3500.00. It completely ruined the head. |
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| POSTED BY: G SIMMS - SYDNEY, NSW - AUS, 14/02/2007 | ||
| HOLDEN ASTRA 2001: DON'T BUY MY PROBLEMS - 3 DR BLACK TS CITY ASTRA 01 *UPDATE* |
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ISSUE: |
DON'T BUY ASTRA - YOU CAN'T AFFORD ITS PROBLEMS (30/01/2007) - Further to my post ... I traded the car in and bought a Mazda. Additional to the list of problems I listed here previously I am certain the clutch was on the way out. The dealership offered me $5k trade in, given the black metallic paint and added on Talon kit were immaculate along with the interior (all but the mechanical parts were good). I told them 'not to insult me'. They ended up giving me $8k. It is now advertised for $13k at the same dealership although they told me they wouldn't put it back in their yard. It's a Holden yard - how ironic. This Astra City is a 3 door stock lemon located in VIC. If anyone comes across it, believe me the only thing it has going for it is its good looks so stay away. Good luck to the next owner. I couldn't sell it privately cos I didn't want to sell someone all of my problems. On the upside being sold at Holden it should be sold as a certified vehicle - ha ha, whoever checked the car over would have to be lying! |
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| POSTED BY: M LAUDER - MELBOURNE, VIC - AUS, 13/02/2007 | ||
| FORD FESTIVA WB 1996: WORLD'S MOST RELIABLE CAR CONFIRMED *CONSUMER FEEDBACK* |
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ISSUE: |
I have to agree with John from Harrington Park NSW. I bought a near new 1996 WB Festiva for my wife 10 years ago and it has been an absolutely fabulous little car. It is on its 3rd set of disc pads since we have had it and has now done over 200,000Km. We have not done another thing to this car mechanically. Every thing is still original and working fine. We haven't even replaced the timing belt although this is scheduled for the next service just to be on the safe side. I wish I could say the same for my 2003 BA XR6 utility (7 years further down the track in technology), and it will never be as good a car as the Festiva. We intend keeping this great little car until it stops. |
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| POSTED BY: R WILLMER - BOOLEROO CENTRE, SA - AUS, 13/02/2007 | ||
| MERCEDES-BENZ ML350 2006: UPDATE ON CHATEAU MOTEUR AND DAIMLER-CHRYSLER *UPDATE* |
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ISSUE: |
So after having been told by Chateau that the noise from the air-conditioning was 'series standard' and that 'there is no further action' I followed up with another complaint to DaimerChrysler who suggested a comparison test. |
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| POSTED BY: N SPEARRITT - MELBOURNE, VIC, 13/02/2007 | ||
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========== ORIGINAL POSTING ========== "MERCEDES-BENZ ML350 2006: ML350 - CHATUEAU MOTEUR & DAIMLER CHRYSLER NO HELP AT ALL - Dealer - Chateau Moteur South Australia In November 2006 I reported to the dealership that the air conditioning was not cooling, and the vehicle was booked in for a repair. On the appointed day I drove the vehicle from Kersbrook into Adelaide and delivered the vehicle to the dealership, I remained in Adelaide, and within hours was contacted to say the vehicle had been fixed and was ready for collection. When I returned to collect the vehicle, it was then explained that all that had been done was a 'gas top up' to check for a leak. Upon collecting the vehicle, I noticed the air conditioning now made an unusual 'whirring' sound. Within days the air conditioning had again failed, so the vehicle was returned, and I reported the 'whirring sound' also. That same day I was asked to return to Adelaide and pick the vehicle up, for although the fault had this time been found, the parts required would not be available for one week. So again a week later I returned to the dealership for the air conditioning repair, and was told the vehicle would be ready within hours, so I remained in Adelaide. Late that afternoon, I was informed that in fact the vehicle would not be ready that day, and so I returned home to Kersbrook, only to have to again drive into Adelaide the next day to collect the vehicle. I collected the vehicle from Adelaide the next day, and was informed that both the cooling component of the vehicle and the 'whirring' sound had been addressed. The cooling yes, the unusual sound - no. So the vehicle was again booked to return to the dealership. Please note that at each return, there is a time delay if a loan vehicle is required. And so again on the required day, I returned to the dealership, this time the dealer retained the vehicle for approx 7 days whilst they tried to locate and repair the fault. They rang to say the vehicle was fully repaired, that no unusual sounds where coming from the air conditioning, and to please collect the vehicle. That afternoon I drove to Adelaide to collect the vehicle, but when I arrived at the dealership I was told that when shifting the car from the service area to customer collection point, the fault reappeared, and so the vehicle had not been fixed. I was asked if I would like to rebook another day to have the vehicle again looked at. In anger, I turned around and drove straight back to Kersbrook without my vehicle and retained the loan car. I requested that the dealership not contact me again until the fault had been fixed. Seven days passed, and I was contacted to collect the vehicle, so that same day I drove from Kersbrook into Adelaide to collect the vehicle. Unfortunately not 2kms from the dealership, the air conditioning was still making its whirring sound, but even worse was the fact that after having the vehicle in their possession for more than one week, it was handed back to me with less than 5kms of fuel left in the tank, I would have returned the vehicle and its noisy air conditioning straight back to the dealership, but they had not even left me with enough petrol in the tank to do so. I telephoned the dealership immediately, and expressed my displeasure to both the General Manager and the Dealer Principal, who informed me that he would from here on in ensure personally that the fault would be addressed, and that I would now no longer need to keep returning the vehicle to the dealership. It was arranged that they next day, the vehicle would be collect from me. I requested that when collecting the vehicle, they do so in another ML350, so that the two vehicles could be compared side by side and under the same conditions. This was done, and the technician from the dealership noted the difference between the two vehicles, and agreed that indeed the fault still existed. He telephoned the service division and was told to leave the vehicle in which he arrived in, and to take my vehicle into the dealership for repair - again. During the course of the day I was contacted to say that they could not find the fault, and to keep the loan vehicle until the fault had been found and corrected. Ten days later, I was contacted by the dealership and informed that the 'drive belt' and 'fan motors' had been replaced, and that they thought the fault had been fixed, although their technician thought he could still hear the 'whirring', albeit reduced. They wished to keep the vehicle longer just to make sure. Two days after telephoning to say that even thought the sound was initially heard after the parts replacement, it had not appeared since, and that the vehicle would be returned. That afternoon the vehicle was returned by the same technician, we test drove it, and whilst diminished, yes the fault was still present. I drove the vehicle home that night (4kms) and by the time I had reached home, the sound that had been emitting from air conditioning had returned to its original level. The very next morning I contacted the service division, and informed them that the fault had again not been fixed, and that I wished to return the vehicle yet again. I was told that I would have a two week wait before the vehicle could be scheduled in and a loan car available. After much negotiation, and expressing yet again the disappointment in the length of time, customer treatment and delays in having this fault corrected, and perhaps also that that I now needed to contact Daimler Chrysler direct, was I offered to bring the vehicle back in the next day. I drove to Adelaide the next day to return the vehicle, I asked that the General Manager and a technician test drive the vehicle with me to acknowledge and hear the fault. This we did for approximately 1 hour, and the sound was consistently there under all the conditions the service technician requested we try. His report to the General Manger sitting in the rear of the vehicle was that he suspected a fault in the transmission (clutch lockup?) and would need to contact (?) at Daimler Chrysler in Melbourne as it might require a replacement transmission and that's under warranty and would need to be their call. Not 24 hours have passed, and the service division has been in contact to inform me that they believe the vehicle is fixed and the fault corrected. They have removed some of the gas from the air conditioning system. So after 4 months, with more than 12 trips to the dealership, and after having the 'drive belt',' fan motors' replaced, after hearing the senior service technician speak of needing a whole new transmission, I am asked to collect the vehicle again because they have removed some gas from the air conditioning and all is fixed. The 'whirring' has been reduced, but still exists as it does across the board in that model vehicle. The vehicle was returned with the noise level at exactly the same - no change at all." POSTED BY: N SPEARRITT - ADELAIDE - SA - AUS 9 FEB 2007 |
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